Trouble with Deans'

[F1Atom]

I am on the verge of hating this connector. Every time I try to put a small dot of soder to get it to stick on the tabs on the deans connector it falls right off. I spent 4 hours trying to put this damn thing on but once I did the plastic had already melted, both on the connector to the helicopter and battery. I bought new deans connectors today. But before I destroy them again. I wanted know what kind of soder do use on the connectors. I heard of silver soder and rosin core. What should I get? I saw the video on "Soldering Deans Connectors 101" before I even started. It gave me an idea on what to do but things aren't going to plan. I am having a very hard time with this connector. JST's are begining to look friendly.

Need help!
Thank You All!

[Pinecone]

First off do you have real Dean's ? There are copies out.

You need to make sure the blade you are trying to put the solder on is clean. Use rosin core eletrical solder.

Heat up the and wipe the tip on a wet natural sponge of wet cotton, melt a bit of solder on the tip and wipe off again.

Touch to tip Deans balde and put a tiny amount of solder onto the tip to help heat transfer. Hold the solder against the blade of the connector, it should melt in a couple of seconds.

If not, the metal is not clean, you are using the wrong solder, or your iron is not hot or too low of wattage.

[vapochilled]

not sure why you'd hate it, it's not the connectors fault you can't solder?
You need to use an electrical solder that has flux in it, you get the iron hot, you tin the iron tip. touch it to the connector, add a little solder once the heat is there and it flows.
Practice! it's a new skill, there's no other way, unless someone offers to do it for you?
Get some old wire, and a tin can(not ali) and just practice.

[Jermo]

heat the connector and add solder to the connector. If you try to melt solder on the iron and just drop it on the connector it will never stick.
Jermo

[mudbogger2]

I always score the deans connector with an x-acto knife before i tin it. It really helps the solder stick to it.

[Efliernz]

Also cool the connector down with a damp sponge to take the heat away before the plastic warps - particulaly with Deans copies...

[F1Atom]

Just got new iron and solder. I'm going to try this again. Wish me luck!

[Efliernz]

Don't forget to video it so we can enjoy the smoke... and swearing!!!

just joking :hug:

good luck

[F1Atom]

Sorry to disappoint. haahahaha. But I successfully soldered both the heli and the battery. Just like in the video. Turn out all I needed was a new 40watt iron and thinner solder. Oh ya scoring the dean's really helped out. YYYYYYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Too bad it too cold outside for me to fly it. Damn! :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

Anyway, how can you tell if have a real dean's or a copy?

[Efliernz]

Well done, but they are a b1ch to wire.

I don't know what authentic ones look like. I get mine from Honk Kong so they will be fakes...

How cold is cold? It is 23C here at 21:50. The wind has finally settled and it's too dark to fly. I have a new 600 that's been finished for 27 days and it has only had 3 small test flights :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

[Pinecone]

If they didn't come in a Deans pacakge, they are likely to be fakes.

The fakes work, they might not last as long, be harder to solder, and the plastic softer.

[F1Atom]

:mrgreen: Just had my first flight on the liPo. HOLY "S", the power of that thing is amazing. The only problem now is getting the little bastard trimed properly. There is a little tail wag and it tends to fly itself. I have to admit I was a bit scared of the power at first but once I get it dial in it should be a blast to fly. I only flew it for about 3-4 mins I was having to power it down and readjust the mixing and gyro pots on the 4-1. But damn I should of went to lipo the moment I started. Or at least learned how to hover then go lipo. I already spent 80$ on a NiMH charger and 40$ on two blue stock batts. I waisted my money! :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

[Skiddz]

I always score the deans connector with an x-acto knife before i tin it. It really helps the solder stick to it.

yep, me too...

One thing a lot of people do is use too low of a heat/wattage setting.. I run good Weller irons and crank 'em up wide open (850F) to solder. You don't want to spend 20 seconds heating up the part enough to get the solder to flow. Heat the part for 2-3 seconds, apply solder to the part (not the iron!) and then let cool. Nice shiny joints every time.

[bullaculla]

I like to use a real paste flux and brush a little on before I start to tin them. I flux the wire too. It really helps the solder to stick and flow nicely. I also use a butane soldering iron. :smokin:

[sean1]

What do you mean "Real Paste Flux?"
Like the stuff, you buy it the pluming supply.

[bullaculla]

yep. try it. you'll never want to solder anything without it.

[tppjr]

What do you mean "Real Paste Flux?"
Like the stuff, you buy it the pluming supply.

NO, NOT the stuff you buy at a plumbing supply. That is ACID fluz for soldering pipes. You want the stuff you get at a electronics store. Fry's has some good stuff, in a white container, Kester brand.

Add some when you reheat solder and watch the difference.

Thomas

[Pinecone]

Not all plumbing fluxes are acid flux.

But it is best to buy from an electronics store.

[bullaculla]

NO, NOT the stuff you buy at a plumbing supply. That is ACID fluz for soldering pipes. You want the stuff you get at a electronics store. Fry's has some good stuff, in a white container, Kester brand.

Add some when you reheat solder and watch the difference.

Thomas

That is exactly what i'm using, and I bought it in a hardware store, in the plumbing supply. Kesters also make an acid flux in a white container, so watch out. You want a rosin paste flux. Most solder has a rosin flux core, but its so little and usually burns up before you solder anything.

[cudaboy_71]

finless has had this covered for quite a while. check out the video (http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/generic&filename=soldering_deans101.wmv).