Anyone have a 8 tooth motor, Lipo 11.1v 1250mah, and flat bl

[F1Atom]

Anyone using a 8 tooth motor, Lipo 11.1v 1250mah, and flat blades? I just wanted to know what kind of times people are getting on their Lipos.

I'll be mostly perfecting nose in technique and hovering.

Thanks

[magicheli]

Hi F1Atom, i think i have a simmilar cofig. According to Flight style, i fly from 10.40 Min. to 14.30 Min. I have 2 Brushless Motors, Main Eflite KV 4100and and on my Heck a Brushless Feigao Motor, its very stable and runs closely forever. I am very interest in other Guys flight hours, specially yours. At the moment i dont fly 3D, so i dont fly in idle up mode and need net that power. Pleasse let me know your setup.

Sorry for my Funny english !SMILE! :D am a Swiss Guy*

Thanks

[Skiddz]

Blade CP with FlightTech CNC frame, Alum swash, Bell/Hiller head, 370 sized 3600Kv BL motor, Thunderbird 18 ESC, DD tail with GWS 30/30 prop, 1320mah 3S LiPo battery and sym woodies nets me just about 22 mins in hovering and forward flight. Just hovering OGE nets me a tick under 17 mins...

[Rebuild]

That's pretty impressive, Skiddz! What"s your AUW? :WOW

[F1Atom]

:mrgreen: Just had my first flight on the liPo. HOLY "S", the power of that thing is amazing. The only problem now is getting the little bastard trimed properly. There is a little tail wag and it tends to fly itself. I have to admit I was a bit scared of the power at first but once I get it dial in it should be a blast to fly. I only flew it for about 3-4 mins I was having to power it down and readjust the mixing and gyro pots on the 4-1. But damn I should of went to lipo the moment I started. Or at least learned how to hover then go lipo. I already spent 80$ on a NiMH charger and 40$ on two blue stock batts. I waisted my money! :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

Question:
Do you guys time your flights? or Do you have a Lipo Alarm?
I'll timing it and checking voltage with a volt meter to make sure I don't go under 10volts. Is this practice good. I know not to go below 9v but I want to be safe.

[Skiddz]

I dunno what my AUW is.. I should buy/borrow a scale and find out.

I rarely fly the entire duration of the pack 'cuz after about 10 mins I have to set it down and chill for a bit. hehehe

F1Atom - yeah, I time my flights. My Tx has a timer that begins any time the throttle goes over 25% (I set that value) and I figured out the duration by flying for 10 mins then recharging and finding out how many mah I put back in the battery and began adding time/recharging until I figured out how long it'd take to get to 80% discharge.

Slow forward flight takes a LOT less power than hovering which is why I probably get such long flight times.

[F1Atom]

Unfortunately, my charger doesn't tell how much mah was put back into the battery. How can I keep track? Is there another way?

I having trouble dialing it in. Every time I think I get right the tail start to way. Not a lot just little. Sometimes it totally wants to turn the other direction without notice. I was wondering is it possible to maintain good tail control without using a GWS tail or dual tail mod? I read stuff on horizon about using my setup. They don't mention anything about tail mod or do they?

[Skiddz]

The problem in the 1st 30-60 seconds you've got gobs of power and therefor more torque so the TR has to work harder. The proportional mix gets set at a level to counter this torque and when the battery drops off, the mix is too low and the tail starts to wander.

What I did (I use revo mixing on my Tx now) is set the proportional up about 3 mins into the flight to hold the tail steady and then dial in the gain. Remember, you need to "reboot" the 4-in-1 when you make a change to the proportional mix. Gain is "on the fly".

These birds don't have heading hold gyros, just rate so you're going to need to fly the tail... Good practice for developing TR control muscle memory if ya ask me.

[F1Atom]

I got my heli dialed in sorta. I still have to use trim for minor corrections. But now I have a new problem. My heli wants to jump in the air to rapidly. It usually does this when I had in the hover and try to increase altitude a little. It wants to climb all of a sudden. I noticed too that when I'm in the hover. The esc light is flickering from green to red like a christmas tree light.

Let me know how to solve this. I'm going to try by taking out some pitch. Then see what happens. Wish me luck. I already broke my first landing gear because of this. That little bastard! :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

[Rebuild]

Binding + slop= jump. Dynamic loads cause binding and the slop causes overshoot of input. Move the stick a little, nothing happens. Move the stick a little more and bingo, you all of a sudden get more input than you desired. Some points along the curves are more vulnerable to this and can be smoothed out by doing exactly what you have in mind here. Changing the head speed and/or the pitch in a problem area can shift the problem to a spot along the curve that is loaded dynamically different and the jump may be less pronounced or in some cases non-existent. With the heli at rest, I bet you can move the blades through 1 or 2 or more degrees of pitch movement before the slop is taken up and movement is actually transferred to the servo motor pinion. Some may say all of a sudden their machine just started acting this way but I submit that the slop was probably there all along. They may have adjusted a link or two that just made it more pronounced in one particular area. Better servos and new ball links will, in most cases help considerably. This is assuming that all of the usual mechanical "sticky collective" issues have already been addressed. Changing the pitch/throttle relationship just dynamically preloads the head in the direction you input so the slop is already taken up proir to your stick input and you eliminate that "slinky pull toy" effect. Then when you move the stick, an immediate response is transferred to the head. Talk about rambling! "I was born a rambling man"...note,note,note. :roll:

[F1Atom]

Hey...I took out some pitch and problem solved. No more bounce