Spectra Tail pushrod update? Still available?

[Racer944]

Hi Guys;

I have purchased a used Spectra G and I don't like the way the tail pushrod is assembled (tons of threaded rod exposed on each end of the CF tube). I have read that there was an upgrade made to the kits in terms of the tail pushrod, but the part numbers referenced in older posts no longer come up on the Min Air site. Anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to look to the aftermarket?

Also, anyone know where the serial number for the Spectra Kit is located? Is it somewhere on the heli, or was it only supplied in the original supplied documentation?

Cheers;
Eric

[rbort]

Serial number is usually on the box itself that the heli came in. If you don't have the original box, I don't think its anywhere else...

You can order a brass sleeve to cover the threads on the heli side. Actually you screw in the link, push the threaded rod all the way into the carbon tube, and slide the sleeve over the carbon rod and the link. That is how its done on that side and no adjustments are possible after it dries.

On the tail rotor side the threaded rod comes out of the carbon fiber pushrod, and you adjust the link to get the tail to hover in normal mode with no drift. That is how mine is and there is no problem with it, 228 flights to date. You can shrink wrap the rod and part of the threaded rod to give it a cleaner look.

-=>Raja.

[Racer944]

Hi Raja;

Thanks for the info... If it works for you it will be fine for me!

For the tail pushrod, I have all the part numbers to upgrade to the new style pushrod (like you describe), but the brass sleeve is the part that no longer shows available on the MA web site... Maybe I will have to give them a call and see whats up.

Cheers;
Eric

[rbort]

Oh yeah just call and ask for Bob -- he knows exactly which part it is. I recently bought one for my 1005 gasser to put it on that pushrod there -- even though it wasn't a stock item back then I liked to get the same looks on my other machine.

-=>Raja.

[lep1933]

I've just finished gluing 25mm of the #122-94 M3 X 97 control rod into the rear of the graphite control rod per the instructions. Keep in mind there is about 12mm of thread on the end of #122-94. I'm finding that when I go to put the #0133-1 grey ball link on the end, with my closed tail box, and with threading the rear link until it bottoms out, I'm still about 5-6mm too long. I'm new to helis, but one question i had was in regards to the tail rotor angle vs. its bellcrank position - with the bellcrank parallel to the trans case, should the tail rotor sit with the rotors angled and not planar to each other? I assume this would be because of a default angle to counter the main rotor's torque.

If the tail rotors should sit at an angle, then I need to cut some of the thread off of the control rod since the assembly is too long.

Has anyone else experienced this? If I cut that much off, should I thread the rod further down (what size threader should I get?), or do you think the ball link will be sufficiently threaded with 6-7mm of the rod in it?

Also, is there any worry of the rear metal rod snapping or poking out of the graphite tube as was happening on the front. I have the brass sleve fix on the front and appears to be very strong.

Thanks for all your help. I wanna get this baby flying by spring!

Lep

[ddavison]

The mod you did on the front is all that is needed, the rear does not have the problem. If you use a head gun or hair dryer you can heat the tube up and remove the rod and reinstall it into the tube further. Heat the tube while holding the rod with pliers twisting the rod slightly untit it loosens, before you remove it push it into the tube further to push any build up of adhesive further in the tube, remove the rod rough it up and reassembly further into the tube. Dave

[rbort]

i found the measurement in the manual is incorrect. It was stated for the original tail box. With the new metal box it is too long. I mentioned it to Bob at Minair, but maybe they didn't have a chance to fix it or this is an older kit? I also mentioned it here or on RR as a heads up to other builders but you can't read everything all the time.

Anyway, do what Dave said but be careful don't heat or twist too much until its good and ready to break loose otherwise you can twist the carbon tube too much and damage it.

-=>Raja.

[lep1933]

Raja,

I should've listened to you. I heated up the graphite tail rod too much and it split up about 3/4" trying to wiggle the metal rod out.

So should I get a new graphite rod, or would it be OK if I put a brass sleve over it, about 40-50mm in length and CA it over the end of the graphite rod? Is this an acceptable fix, maybe even make it stronger?

Realistically, I didn't think I had the heat gun on it for all that long, maybe 20-30 seconds, so maybe I might've found a weak spot?

Let me know what you think. I may just order another rod just in case.

Thanks again,
Lep

[rbort]

No just put the rod in deeper and reglue it with the JB weld. Then where the split is cover that with some extra jb-weld or epoxy and use heat shrink on the whole thing to hold it together. I put heat shrink so it covers the first 5mm of the threaded rod as well for a clean look and it works just fine.

If you have to do it again try to twist and/or pull the threaded rod with no side forces at all as that will split the carbon tube. Also don't twist too hard as you can twist the carbon too.

-=>Raja.