Rate your LOGICTECH 2100T gyro experience..

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Fired up the Logictech gyro and Logictech servo this weekend on my new Rap 90.
Solid performer in the air. Easy set up, super fast servo. It can be set up
for a beginner or a master. :lol:

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Fired up the Logictech gyro and Logictech servo this weekend on my new Rap 90.
Solid performer in the air. Easy set up, super fast servo. It can be set up
for a beginner or a master. :lol:
I've cast my vote.

[jb1969]

Cant get the "bounce" out of my 2100/ 9650 when piroing nose left tail right, Can anyone help on this, it is very anoying!, When I piro nose right tail left it stops perfect!

[ammo]

Alrite guys, I've put together a bit of a pictorial guide for setting up the gyro.

http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22511

[Tradhunt]

I have 3 2100T's... 1 on my 450SE and the other 2 on my Mini T's... I'm ordering the 6100T for my .90's and one of my .50's........ I had the 401 on one of my Mini T's and 450SE and never seemed right never could get the tail wag out no mater what I tried... the 2100T's get's my vote....... hopefully the 6100T will be the same....I've heard lot's of good things about it...

[rcboosted]

Count me in as another victim of the CCW piro bounce. It won't go away, I went through the exact same thing 3DBatixkid did. I have a 401 coming. I will keep the exact same set up and only change the gyro. I'm sure it will hold like there's no tomorrow on the 401 with no bounce. Without even having to set it up in rate mode.

[Jayway]

I love mine. I think some of the issues you guys may be having is simple setup. Have you flown the gyro in non heading lock mode and make sure that your mechanical trim is centred? ie nearly no drift in non heading lock during hover. Trex tail movements are not perfectly centred and the servo centre point is usualy quite far the left had side of the slider (i think). Initial when I first flew, it had very bouncy stops, but then I adjusted the mech trim (which was quite far out) and now its solid with great piro speed.

[IcedKirk]

Hi ..
Well when i first put in my trex xl i thought that this gyro maybe it no so good ,i have the same thing that 3DBatixkid BUT i switch off the gy or std gyro prog in my Futaba 9chps and control the gain from the gyro gain channel and switch D for channel5 and after i fix it at the mechanical rate that is this gyro is GREAT no bounce effect any more ,well i can't say if is better from my gy401 (i have 3 total ) but for sure is just the same for me and with more parameters that i can adjust and
i just order one more to put it in my trex SE and moving the gy401 to another project :-)

...
i have Gws fast analog servo for the tail i suppose with the 3154 that i have in my Se it will be have more great performance

:wink: so for me 2100T :noteworthy

[appleseed]

This noob also had silly bouncy/drifting issues until I setup the rex to hover in rate mode without trim or rudder input. Now It seems awsome and cost less than a 401 so I am happy.I have a S3154 servo on the tail.
:smokin:

[IcedKirk]

yes this is the solution to the problem must be setup mechanical first correctly
:mrgreen:

[appleseed]

Hello.
Logictech have published a better but still kor-glish manual for the 2100T which seems to clarify the functions a bit better. Like rotate rate seems to inply servo speed not piro rate as some peple seem to think.

http://www.logictech.co.kr/upload/bbs/LTG-2100T(English).pdf

I did play with the rotate rate and setting it high with a 3153 on the tail did make it much better than setting it low.
thats my 2 cents.
Time to go crash again! :badair:

[kgfly]

Thanks Appleseed, that is a MUCH better set of instructions, a few linguistic oddities but completely understandable.

[Helivudrug]

I own 3 of these gyros. Use them on my 2 Rexys and my Pixy Zap. I won't use anything else. I will be using a LT on my 10S 600 I'm currently building. Anytime I have had a problem with them it is a setup issue. They all hold rock solid and won't let go until I tell them to. Tried it on my Blade with a brushless tail setup and it made the thing fly like a T-rex (almost) Very reliable and rock solid. One thing I have noticed is that they are very picky about vibrations and the type of gyro tape used. The tape provided works best, just dont forget to stretch the tape out to get the most vibration dampening possible. The first time I set one up it was difficult but now there are plenty of well done guides online. I can set one up in my sleep now.

I've also noticed a lot of guys are selling their 401's to get one of these, and they'll say it right in their ad.

Awesome gyro

[tweekie1]

Very nice. Easy to set up with the instructions from ammo at rcs.It stops on a dime. I thought the g90 was ok but I needed the servo stops and the 2100 fit the bill. Guess I'll put the g90 on the axe. :D

tweekie1

[kgfly]

QJ-EP8v2SP with HS-85mg and L2100T

I have been fighting my L2100T for a month. I really like the user interface, very easy to use once you understand how it works. I really like the small size, low weight and cheaper price. I hate the fact that I cannot get it to work and it makes my heli unflyable in HH mode. :arggg:

Problems:
1) Very bad bounce (45 to 90 degrees) on CCW stops
2) Non-stop low frequency wag
3) Ratcheting piros
4) Poor hold

It is setup mechanically for zero drift in Rate mode and has less bounce and no wag at all in Rate mode.

I tried many combinations of gain, rotation rate and servo arm length all to no avail. I tried running at 6V to speed up the tail servo but there was no significant change in behaviour.

The tail assembly is smooth and free with no binding and no slop.

I have new mainshaft, main bearings, tail shaft, tail bearings. I have balanced the head, main blades and tail blades. The tail drive mesh/belt is mild (neither tight nor loose). Main gear mesh is mild.

There is some vibration (you can see a slight buzz in the tail fin) but not excessive based on my experience.

QJ-EP8v2SP with HS-85mg and GY401
Today I dropped in a 401 without making any other changes to the heli. Once setup with non-DS mode, 70% gain, 120% travel and 100% delay the heli flew properly in HH mode for the first ever. There is still a very slight wag but the tail holds and behaves properly.

I guess it is possible I got a bad one, but given that others have reported similar experiences I think either there must be a lot of bad ones, or the L2100T is simply *much* more sensitve to vibration than the 401 and this makes it hard to use. While eliminating vibration is important for any heli, getting rid of it 100% is often very hard and not sustainable without a lot of work over time. I would rather have a gyro that tolerates a little imperfection and lets me fly than one that keeps me grounded looking for tiny mechanical issues.

I am prepared to try my L2100T one more time on my next heli, when I get one, but for now I will no longer be recommending it to anyone like I used to.

[Helivudrug]

Wanna sell it? hehe

The 2100 is very sensitive to vibes. Get rid of the vibes and the thing will work correctly.

Also Im not sure what the rating is on the hs 85 but if it is too slow the gyro doesn't work to its potential.

To take advantage of what the 2100 can do you need a fast digital servo. Stay away from analog. I am running the Logictech 6100 servo on one of my Rexys and a Futaba 3154 on my Pixy Zap. Rock solid.

On my Pixy Zap I had a few issues but I turned down the endpoints and that solved everything.

[kgfly]

The 2100 is very sensitive to vibes. Get rid of the vibes and the thing will work correctly.
Perhaps. My point is that it seems way too sensitive. I have replaced and balanced almost every rotating part in the heli and there is still some vibration from somewhere. The 401 handles it and the heli is flyable. With the L2100T it isn't.

Also Im not sure what the rating is on the hs 85 but if it is too slow the gyro doesn't work to its potential. To take advantage of what the 2100 can do you need a fast digital servo. Stay away from analog. I am running the Logictech 6100 servo on one of my Rexys and a Futaba 3154 on my Pixy Zap. Rock solid.
All I am asking it to do is hover, hold heading in mild wind and fly smoothly for gentle figure eights. It shouldn't need a super fast digital servo to do that.

On my Pixy Zap I had a few issues but I turned down the endpoints and that solved everything.
Do you mean you reduced your rudder endpoints on the Tx to reduce the piro rate or your reduced your pitch slider travel using the travel adjustment on the gyro ?

[Helivudrug]

What kind of tape are you using? Normal sticky tape transfers too much vibration to the gyro. If you are using the tape that is supplied with the gyro, be sure to stretch it out to get more cushion.

The gyro is most sensitive to high frequency vibes such as the kind that comes from the tail when it's out of balance. I weigh mine on a gram scale. Is your tail shaft straight?

The 85 should be plenty fast for what you're doing. The only time Ive had the kind of problem you're having is when the tape was failing (torn) or there was a lot of vibration coming from somewhere. If your tail is jumping to a position you didn't command it to, vibration is the problem.

The 401 works fine for what you're doing but if youre doing alot of backwards flight and backwards inverted the Logictech is going to outshine the 401.

If all you're having is a wag issue, lower the endpoints on the TX as a last resort.

Some guys are making a new hole in the servo arm even closer to the center and turning up their gain up to 85% in some cases to get the most out of this gyro.

This gyro likes digital servos, it doesnt perform nearly as well with analog servos.

I'll buy it from you if you're selling it... :lol:

Edit: I just thought of something else. Are you programming it to analog mode? If not that'll cause problems. Also, did you program it to recognize your TX?

[kgfly]

Helivudrug - Thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Gyro was mounted using the supplied tape. The 401 is now sitting on the same tape as I was able to peel the L2100T cleanly off the tape. I did not stretch the tape as I had not heard of that suggestion before. I normally apply the tape to the gyro then the gyro to the mount.

Gyro set to my Tx type (Spektrum/JR = #3) and analog servo (= #3).

Brand new tail shaft, tail bearings. Tail blades are dynamically balanced. The vibration I have is present even without the main blades or tail blades installed. I think it is coming from the head not the tail.

I agree that vibration is a problem and have been striving to remove it.

Why would lowering the Rudder endpoints help, all that does is reduce the piro rate and the wag happens when no rudder command is being given ?

I tried several combinations of arm size and gain, all had the same problem.

If I ever get to inverted/backwards/3D flight I will be thrilled to upgrade to a high performance digital servo. For mild pottering around analog should be fine.

I am in Australia so even if I was selling it I think the shipping would make it an unattractive price for you :wink: I am not selling it though as I want to try it out on another heli before I give up on it.

[Helivudrug]

I suspect that you are getting vibration to the gyro because the tape isnt thick enough. The tape they provide is a special kind that stretches. Just grab hold of the gyro and pull up. The tape should expand about a half inch and then retract to about double the size it was originally. If not, then it is the wrong tape.

I have flown my helis with some significant vibrations but this tape when it is working properly will dampen most of the vibes.

(One thing, I did just buy a LT recently and it came with a different type of tape that did not stretch, but it still worked perfectly. )

Just be sure not to pull the tape so far that it tears, then you will have the same problem as the gyro will be loose and will shake with any vibes that come in.

Most times that I have had a problem it was because of vibration.

The endpoint solution was somethng a that a friend of mine who owns a Pixy Zap told me about. He did it on his and it seemed to work. Not sure why but I think its because it decreases the range that the gyro is reaching for and therefore makes the tail more stable. This is only if you cant get the physical setup to fix the problem.

Are you using a micrometer to measure your flybar lengths? Make that thing spin like a top and get he tape thickness right and the gyro will be much happier.

[kgfly]

So when you say to stretch the tape when you apply it do you mean laterally, parallel to the surface you are sticking it onto ? Won't that make it thinner ?

Nope, using a metal ruler with 0.5mm markings to measure the flybar lengths. I would say it is now within +/- 0.00025m now which I reckon should be good enough. I also dynamically balance the head without the blades.

[Helivudrug]

If your gyro is facing up, pull up to stretch the tape. This is after you have mounted the gyro to the boom. Perpendicular to the surface you are sticking it to.

The ruler should work but if you say you see the tail fin buzzing that could definitely be the problem. This gyro doesn't like hi-freq vibes. (This is why they dont recommend this gyro for nitro birds) If your tail blades are even a little out, it will cause a problem. Spool it up and touch the boom to see if the vibe is stronger towards the front of the boom or the back. It is most likely towards the back which means something is out of whack. That is the only thing that EVER made the heli unmanageable is when I had tail vibes. Head vibes dont seem to affect this gyro so much.

The only other thing I can think of is turn your headspeed up or down to see if it goes away. It could be that at the particular headspeed youre running youre getting a harmonic vibe.

[kgfly]

Thank you for you help Helivudrug :) Intriguing about stretching the tape up like that. Maybe that is contributing to why the 401 is working better, since the tape got stretched when I removed the 2001T :dontknow

The vibe feels stronger at the back but since the front is clamped to the frame that would alwys be the case IMO.

The tail vibe is still there without the main or tail blades so it has to be either the head, the tail drive assembly or harmonics. I think I played with the headspeed but since that is the easiest thing to do, I will try it again.

[kgfly]

OK I was wrong. The vibration is *much* worse at the gyro mount than I had thought. The gyro is buzzing like an electric toothbrush :shock: So...

I took off the tail - gyro still vibrating
I took off the head (just left the main gear and shaft) - gyro still vibrating
I took off the tail drive gear assembly - gyro still vibrating
I took off the main shaft and gear - gyro still vibrating

At this point the only rotating parts are the motor and pinion

I took off the pinion - gyro still vibrating, but lower amplitude

Conclusion - the motor is out of balance and the source of all the
vibration which is then amplified through the pinion and main gear!

Time to discuss warranty issues with the vendor...

I am expecting that the L2100T will work much better once the vibration problem is solved but this has shown that the 401 is more tolerant.

[Helivudrug]

Wow, let us know what kind of motor that is.

A temporary fix would be to wrap the gyro with a velcro strap to keep it from shaking. I had a bad vibe at the field one day so I just wrapped the gyro and that got me flying for a while.

"the 401 is more tolerant"

Well, I guess that's one way of looking at it. When it comes to gyros, you want them to be more sensitive. Thats what makes the LT better, (according to people who have extensively tested both.) I think one reason the 2100 holds better when it is setup correctly is that you can run a higher relative gain without it wagging.

Glad you got that issue figured out, it was probably causing you to run the gain on the 401 lower than it could be also.


Let us know how it turns out.