Rate your LOGICTECH 2100T gyro experience..

[inmidair]

Rate your LOGICTECH 2100T gyro experience..

[3DBatixkid]

Cant give it a rating yet but so far im slightly annoyed just doing setup :arggg:

[3DBatixkid]

I have a lot of flights on this thing now and i have to say...IT SUCKS! Ill be switching to the 401 after my next paycheck.

[kgfly]

Can you be more specific ? What is it mounted in ? What is disappointing about it ?

[3DBatixkid]

Im running it on my Trex 450 w/ 9650 on tail.

Setup:

HS 65s
Futaba 146iP
Stock motor and controller (13t)
TP 2070s
Align carbon blades

The tail never stops properly. It will always bounce unless you gently stop it. The piros are totally crappy as well. They are not smooth by any means. It holds in sideways flight as well as anything would until the head speed is bogged. I have tried all different length arms, different pushrods, different gyro settings and nothing seems to make it any better.

[kgfly]

It's a shame you have had a bad experience but yours is the only negative comment I have come across for this gyro so far.

Exactly the same behaviour is frequently reported by people using other gyros and almost always ends up being a setup issue, usually mechanical. You might consider checking for any slop or binding in the tail linkage, that it is a dead straight run from servo arm to pitch slider and that the pitch slider moves *completely* smoothly on the tail shaft. If you have the tail pushrod clipped into the support under the tail bracket, drill or file out the support so that it is completely free and not binding the rod at all. Also check that the link on the servo arm is as close to the centre as possible and then use the gyro output travel adjustment to get the maximum pitch slider movement without binding at the ends. What about mounting, how is the gyro attached to the heli ? If you have a safety strap, try without. If you have several layers of foam, change it to only one etc.

Other comments I have seen about the 2100T advice adjusting the "turn rate" setting to the max and relying on your rudder ATV/EPA to control the piro rate.

Perhaps some of these ideas might help as there is a risk you will spend more money on a 401 and end up with much the same behaviour.

[3DBatixkid]

Thanks for the tips. Everything mechanically is perfect. I havent gone as far as polishing the output shaft on the tail, but this one is the smoothest ive ever set up. I have put the servo arm at the closest as possible to the output shaft on the servo, and it only made things worse. I have not turned the piro rate up and the atv down, but ill give it a shot. Its currently sitting on one layer of the standard mounting tape that it came with. I will try putting it on one layer of thinner tape and see what that does before I switch to the 401.

[kgfly]

Hmmm :?

Have you seen videos of this gyro flying, it really can perform very well so don't give up yet.

I wouldn't bother changing tape just yet. Maybe there is a clue here:

I have put the servo arm at the closest as possible to the output shaft on the servo, and it only made things worse.

That suggests inadequate throw. Does the pitch slider travel the full range of the tail rotor shaft ? I'm sort of hoping not and all you need to do is increase the output travel adjustment on the gyro to increase the tail pitch range.

Otherwise there is still a chance that the turn rate limiting is the problem. Essentially the rate-of-change of pitch is too slow to give a snappy stop. Change just one thing at a time and then test the behaviour. Where is the turn-rate set to at the moment ? Change it one way or the other and do a test. Better => change a bit more in the same direction, Worse => change back the other way.

Good luck, I am sure there must be an answer.

[3DBatixkid]

The reason i bought the gyro was 1) it was light, and 2) i saw a video of a trex 450 with it and the thing was insane. I figured i couldnt go wrong.

The pitch slider moves as far as possible without binding in both directions (within half a mm). I have run short and long arms. I have also changed the piro rate from 1, up to 4. It is currently set at 3. As you increase the piro speed, the piros are smoother, but still dont stop any differently.

I was looking at the tape that holds the gyro on and its fairly squishy. Im not sure if this is effecting it. First thing to try will be to turn the piro rate up and the ATV down. Im thinking this is going to kill resolution but its worth a shot right :?:

[kgfly]

No doubt it is stating the obvious, but you are sure your are running it in HH mode and you have tried higher/lower gain to see if it helps ?

[3DBatixkid]

It is in the "tail lock" mode. Higher gain results in oscillation after stopping a piro which is hard to get rid of (usually have to land with the thing wiggin out). Lower gain and there is no tail authority. I will also add that when i go to do a piro that is anywhere but level, i can push the rudder stick full over and there is about a 1/2 second delay before the tail moves.

[kgfly]

Really starting to sound like a faulty unit to me. Can you return it under warranty ?

[3DBatixkid]

I suppose i could. Its brand new in this heli. I think i still have the paperwork.

[LAMAR COOLEY]

I have a new Logictech and servo installed on a new Raptor 90, os 90 engine,
Mavric blades.
My problem is tail rotor drift in heading hold. I've tried reprograming, reseting
and everything else I can think of to correct it.
There is no binding of the entire assembly. The tail rod link on the servo arm
is equal in distance to the rotor ball link arm. (about 17 mm )
The drift begins as soon after gyro activation with no movement of the heli.
I also experience the problems described by 3DBatixkid above.
I have a 401 on my Trex and it performs guite well.
If anyone has any advice I'm all ears.
Lamar

[3DBatixkid]

I just tried remounting mine and tweaking with the settings. It still doesnt work. This thing is goin in the garbage.

[LAMAR COOLEY]

To 3DBatixkid
I purchased my logictech from heliproz so I called them to discuss the problem.
I was informed that the buzzing was common and that the drift in HH was
common. They assured me that the drift would not be an issue once in flight.
As to the servo buzzing and twitching. They said that the servo was quite fast
and being a digital was sometimes normal for this servo.( Logictech servo)
For your info I'm running a Fromeco 4800 mh battery with a 5.1 volt reg.
I tinkered around with the various receiver choices and found that the
"Logictech" mode works best on the bench with my Air. RD8000 trans.
and airtronics 7 chan. receiver; trans set at PPFM
I have the gyro at 0 center, " standard"
operation: 25 for "smooth control " : "F3C" : HH @ 75%: normal @ 45%
What I also found is it seems that when you program or even scroll through
the menue most times if I set it to normal and switch off after scrolling back
to the "Logictech" receiver screen the dog gone thing takes the works.
I haven't done a voltage reading to see what the current drain is on the
buzzing and twitching servo yet.
By the way the gyro is installed on a new Rap 90 heli that going to be
christened this weekend or sooner if I can sneak off work early.
Also the gyro says that it is recieving 5.0 volts on the main screen in operation
I hope this little bit of info may be of help to you, I find that the programming
and set up is easy and understandable especially when I found the english
version. Also I find that this servo is really fast. So I have tweeked the Expo
and Duel Rate to get the control I want for the fist flights.
SEE YA LATTER HELI FREAK

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Going to put it to the test this weekend if not sooner. Then I'll submit my rating.
There have been some issues "on the bench". But in flight is where it counts.

[BigVanVader]

If your talking about the servo drifting on the bench then that is normal...even a 601/611 will drift on the bench...holds rock solid in the air though.

[DavidH]

Something must be wrong with your 601/611. I have never noticed mine moving while on the bench unless I move the heli around.


David

[Lorents]

Tried the 2100 on my trex 450 for the first time yesterday and it worked great! I am running a 9650 and hyperion blades on the tail. Tail was rock solid and piro rate surprisingly constant. Worked flawless in fast backwards flying, snakes, funnels, flips, rolls, chaos, tic tocs. Rating it at full score :)

[Raptor Rulezzz]

I use the 2100 on my T-rex 450SE and it works a treat (after I got it set up correctly) just like the 6100 on my T-rex 600.

Great gyro's!

Cheers,

Richard

[3DBatixkid]

Folks,

I know some of you are using the 9650 with the 2100 and having good success. Mine never worked right. I tried everything i could think of. A flying buddy called me and suggested the new 3154 futaba. I was skeptical to say the least. How could such a tiny digital servo handle the demands of a 3D heli? Well, its MUCH better than the 9650. I put in 3 flights today at the park and it was nearly perfectly solid. I still had the bounce that i couldnt get rid of a few times, but the piros stopped much much better. Im lovin it so far. Saves me a bit of weight too :wink:

[byhsu]

Where can I find this Logictech 2100T gyro? What is the market price?

Thanks

[3DBatixkid]

I got mine from Heli Proz for $104.99.

[TMoore]

The 2100 is really simple to setup. I just set the servo option to the second setting, the rotation rate to high and then set the endpoints. It works quite well with an ATX 761 servo and I too see the bounce on stop from hi speed left piros but I just changed the blades out for some CF ones so I'll see how it holds with those. So far you can really crank the gain up but I don't see any point in doing so as lower gain settings are working pretty well.

If we had some decent WX I could get in more test flights.

TM