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120 SR Blade (eFlite) 120 SR Helicopters Information and Help |
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02-19-2011, 10:48 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Question on 120SR Aileron Push Rod travel
I bought a Blade 120 SR 2 days ago and have been having fits trying to figure out trimming out left hover characteristics. All other trim adjustments for this helicopter trimmed out farily easy with the TX that came with the RTF kit. But trying to trim out the left hover of this craft with the TX has been impossible. I called the tech line and the tech said to pop the aileron ball link off the swashplate ball and thread the ball link down as to give it more adjustment for right aileron. So threading it down, 2 to 3 turns at a time as to shorten the length of the overall lenght of the pushrod, for a final total of 20 or so turns, had no effect. It still pulls very hard to the left at all times. Pushing the aileron stick all the way to the right on the TX doesn't help any either.
Now that I have this helicopter pretty much apart and in pieces I see that the servo that the aileron rod is controlled by doesn't pull down for right aileron pushrod travel near as much as it pushes up for left aileron pushrod travel. So heres the question...... Is this normal? And if not; What would be causing this? |
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02-20-2011, 01:27 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Do you mean hover or banking to the right during forward flight?
You should be able to trim into a stable hover without a drift using the inks and Tx for fine turing. It is best to trim outdoors where you have the space to get it up in the air, stabilize and observe its tendency to drift. There's not enough space indoors because it will crash into a wall before getting self-stable. If you can get it in trim that way you likely have crash damage such as a bent flybar. FF is a different trim dynamic. What causes the bank and veer to the right in FF is the left side of the rotor advancing into the air and and the right side retreating. A way to minimize it is to use mixing. Set MIX1 for ELV > AIL with R = -50 as a starting baseline and fly it a few times in a straight line. If it still veers right keep decreasing R until it flies straight with just elevator input. |
02-20-2011, 03:11 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
It's pretty torn up now and I have run out of replacement parts and I don't know if the electric motore are sealed units or not and the chlorinated pool water that got into it may in time corrode the armatures in these motors. It's back togeather now and is working (not in flying condition) but shakes like hell and needs quite a few replacement parts from crash damage. I'll be going back to the hobby shop this week sometime and tally up how much the replacement parts will cost and if it's much over 50% of the original cost of the thing, I'll buy another one. The hobby shop I bought it from said they would trim it out for me at no charge in an earlier phone call with them before we tore it up so much. I should have taken it back there and had them fly it and trim it out for some semblence of level flight before I continued on. I was stubborn and they also say hind sight is 20/20. So weather I fix this one or buy another one I'll have them do this before I leave the store with it. Also the person in the hobby shop that sold me this 120 SR kind of hinted that I really didn't want the remote transmitter that came in the RTF (ready to fly ) kit and showed me a couple of other remote transmitters that would make this helicopter fly better that I could bind it to. Do you think if I fix this helicopter or buy the new same helicopter that I should opt for the better transmitter controler? He showed me some kind of 6X and 7X type to fly this with. I have an older Futaba 8 channel for the RC gas planes but I dont think it will work with this helicopter. |
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02-20-2011, 03:19 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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20+ turns is WAY too much......
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02-20-2011, 03:36 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Fly in the street hangar includes: T-Rex 450SEV2, 250SE (MD500), Blade 400, SR & mSR & 120SR & mCPx & mCX & CX2, Walkera 4G6S & SeaCobra Parkzone Sukhoi (& XP), Centurion, Mustang (Micro and BL versions), µBeast, Mosquito
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02-20-2011, 03:38 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I realized or discovered that after I had gone that far and put it back somewhere close to where it was. I didn't have any effect towards the problem anyway. On a positive note I did totally disassemble it last night and was able to put it back togheater after some time and did discover some more damaged parts. So at least if I get this one going or buy another one like it I know a little more about how they come apart and go back togeather. |
02-20-2011, 03:49 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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09-10-2012, 02:37 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Did you fix this problem?
I'm curious because I'm ha ing the same issue and I adjusted the pushrods with no effect (as you did). I'm not sure what the problem is or how'll fix it. If you found a solution, could you post it here?Thanks
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09-10-2012, 05:54 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Do you have the high rates selected on the tx?
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10-12-2012, 10:26 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Just guessing here
Bit if you dunked it in the pool it probally did some kind of damage to the controller.I would get another one and keep it on land or air water is not your friend. But the bight side is you have alot of spare parts already.
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10-12-2012, 05:04 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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I would think of getting at least the DX6 or better to fly the heli. As it is way better then the TX that comes with the RTF units. I went from being a crash dummy to a learning pilot over night when I got my DX6i and after reading the threads here on what settings to use on the DX6 I even got little better. Not saying I don't still crash it here and there but as far as I see, If you ain't fixing it you ain't playing with it.
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