View Full Version : How best to check pitch settings etc

02-27-2011, 08:21 AM
Ok. Watched lots of videos and asked around but still consider the following my weak spot when setting up flybarless beastx helis. How do you check pitch settings accurately? Does the align tool work with a piece of flybar in it or is there better options? Been told of various ways but none seem to make much sense over the align flybar tool. Any ideas or pointers be great. Has finless done a flybarless video?

02-27-2011, 12:27 PM
U could just buy a digital pitch gauge by rclogger that is what I use and it works a treat

02-27-2011, 01:09 PM
All you need is a ruler and this spreadsheet:


02-27-2011, 01:10 PM
Pitch gauges like this one work on bouth helis FB and FLB I have a similar one and love it!

Bob O
02-28-2011, 09:01 AM
I'm using the Bevel Box and turnbuckles. Checking and adjusting pitch has never been so easy. :)

02-28-2011, 02:15 PM
I was using "Bubble" on my cell phone but I just ordered this one... http://www.readyheli.com/107RC-RC-Logger-Digital-Pitch-Gauge_p_37972.html

02-28-2011, 02:40 PM
to answer your ? yes, the align fb rod/tool and a regular old pitch gauge works just fine that is what i used and was super easy. the rc logger digi gauge would be better/easier but is not necessary..

03-03-2011, 02:10 PM
I do it the way justplanechris says.
For zero pitch, just fold the blades to one side, and adjust the servo's in the setupmenu. turn the head around for the other servo's. On aileron don't forget to adjust the half of the distance between the blades on the left servo, and the other half on the right servo.

03-03-2011, 03:16 PM
As mentioned before, this bad boy: http://www.align-trex.co.uk/logger-digital-pitch-guage-rcl107-p-1815.html is where it's at, way better value for money compared to the beastX digital gauge, much lighter & not so fiddly like the regular digi gauges because of how sensitive they are& the digi gauge unit can be removed from the blade clamp unit.

03-03-2011, 03:34 PM
Okay, so there are various methods by which we can measure it during set-up, each have their merits I guess. I used a digital pitch gauge, and then tried the calculated spreadsheet version, works very well. :thumbup: But, this having been said, how do we know what our cyclic pitch range is that is available to us in each of the modes, or doesn't this even matter.

For example, I used to like to know on my previous set-up what my cyclic pitch was, so I could compare to what others said was sensible, too fast, or whatever. During set-up, we only give the MB limits, like the endpoints of a gyro. Sure it can use those limits, if it feels the need, but how can I measure what full stick will give me, without the influence of MB, for any given mode? In set-up you can't, and on the bench you can't, because as we all know the cyclic behaves in a well weird way on the ground, just like an HH gyro.

How do I know what I get allowed to be passed by the MB in Tx mode, with endpoints of 110%, or 80%. Can this be measured? Or do I even need to know? I know that during my set-up, I had no binding, I could max out my cyclic ring set-up step, and if measured here, I think I recall it being 16 degrees, but this doesn't relate to my FB set-up, which was 9 degrees, and this was so fast it was almost unflyable. All the built in modes were too tame for me, and on Tx at 110% with 20% expo it is still slower than my previous set-up. Actually I like it now anyway, it is making me fly better, but my question is how do we know what the cyclic pitch is, not the limits, can it be measured, or does it not even matter, i.e. just go fly, if you like it then it's right. :thumbup:



03-03-2011, 10:34 PM
Just set your cyclic limits to right before binding, then go fly. Set your transmitter rates to what feels right to you. I never really measure cyclic, as I adjust to what feels right for me at the field. There really is no need to know what the pitch actually is. I think I checked on my Gaui X5 just to see what the cyclic was for the limits and it was set to around 15. But when flying it is not 15. thats only the endpoints set up for mb.

03-10-2011, 04:01 PM
I was waiting on the tool but I happened to have one of these. Self Leveling laser level and plumb line. Pictures are to illustrate. Line everything up perpendicular and parallel to get best results.

Great for finding that 6 degrees and setting max/min collective and cyclic limits if you get some interactions.


Line up the main shaft first


Then measure


If you don't have one then it's probably not worth it as they're a bit pricey. Or you could convince the wife all the pictures will be straight and all the 50 mirrors she has because of course a straight mirror makes you look thinner..


03-10-2011, 11:24 PM
"because of course a straight mirror makes you look thinner.."

LMAO ...

03-11-2011, 07:48 PM
"because of course a straight mirror makes you look thinner.."

LMAO ...

whatever works, right? Appeal to their femininity. Or skew it.

03-13-2011, 05:07 AM
I took a 24" level and drew a series of parallel and vertical lines (grid pattern) on my shop wall across from the work bench.
I just set the heli on the bench and check to make sure the mainshaft or top of the frames matches the marks on the wall then use a regular pitch gauge to check the blade pitch to the lines on the wall.
This also helps when setting up the mixing arms, and flybar paddles on fb heli's.
I just rotate the head and step back a little ways to eyeball the links etc. to the lines on the wall at mid stick in idle up 2 at 0 degree pitch.

Bob O
03-13-2011, 09:44 AM

Excellent idea AND pics. :noteworthy

03-13-2011, 10:50 AM
to answer your ? yes, the align fb rod/tool and a regular old pitch gauge works just fine that is what i used and was super easy.