js frenzy 90 v2 back in the air :-)

[phantom1500]

after much headaches the beast is back in the air smoother than ever!

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i426/rustyphantom/P3071909.jpg

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello,

Cool, hope it didn't cost to much to repair :clappp

Nice Canopy BTW, I ordered 2 from Hobbyking (T-Rex 700) and thanks to your picture looks like they will fit very well. Even though the one I ordered does not wear the label ALIGN on it. Unfortunatelly Hobbyking has only one T-Rex 700 canopy, not labeled with "ALIGN" :confused:

Hope to get my F90-V2 airborne in 2 weeks too, when I get some new spare parts for my YS-91 SR3C :roll:

Happy flying,
Oliver

[phantom1500]

Hi Oliver
The trex 700 canopies fit very well but if you look at the bottom of the canopy it could have gone back to fit against the front of the frame.

Thanks to HK the repair bill was little but the wait time was huge.....but I expect that every time.

Watch the black tail drive gear, mine shore the cap screws and split the gear through the center. I ended up drilling out the broken screws and making the hole 3mm and used a cap screw through like the main gear bolt, gotta be stronger than the 2.5mm ones frenzy use.

I also fitted 700E landing gear but its heaps smaller than the JS stuff but HK had no stock.

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello,

Looking at your picture was interesting, as I saw you mounted your tail-servo on the tail-boom. I didn't like the steal-rod as tail-linkage neither, so will try later to mod for a 5 mm carb-rod.

Black tail-belt gear: I asked myself, why they used 2 screws instead of a bolted screw ? A simple bolted screw with self-securing-nut must not be tightenend that much and therefore tension on the black tail-belt gear will be reduced. Manufacturing cost would be down as well ..

I have an open spare order (Frenzy-90 V2) at Hobbyking since 3 month, funningly more than 6 weeks now because of a non available feathering-shaft ? Somehow just ridicoulus how easely JS plays with the customer. I do not care, if they are introducing new versions as TT's and electric versions, before attracting new customers they should try to hold/ satisfy their existing customers first, if they plan to stay in business succesfully for a while .. :dontknow

Anyway, would like to fly my new Frenzy-90 V2 as you can :lol: - hope to get my engines spares really fast :mad: ..

Best Regards,:hug:
Oliver

P.S: The only reason I bought at HK was, that Amainhobbies.com was out of F90-V2 kits .. anyway, they are (Amain) way better (reliable) regarding spare parts availabilty and as well regarding customer service, than Hobbyking ..

[phantom1500]

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12160 try these feathering shafts, they fit and are about 2mm shorter and load up the dampener rubber better, haven't bent one yet. Plus they are nearly always in stock.

I machined the boom mounts myself and are a bit on the large size and am planning to do another set, Quick UK do a raptor 90 set that will slip straight on.

With the black gear...I am now looking for some metal or alloy tubing that will slip over the hub and act as a strengthening ring so the bolt will go through the ring and plastic gear hub, this will stop the splitting of the gear.

The gear only split due to using 105mm carbon tail blades and the vertical fin is not long enough to protect a blade strike. At least I know the belt is strong.

Cheers
Darren

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Darren,

Thank you very much for your information about the feathering shaft, very nice to know this, as the genuine part seems to be pretty anoying about it's spare availability at HK.

The idea of having a larger collar around the tail-belt-gear's circumference is nice, especially as I prefer bolted screws over normal ones, whereever some shear-tension tortures some screws. Having a small lathe and a piece of copper this should be straight forward to make. Additionally to drill out the thread inside the main-shaft shouldn't be that difficult neither. Having a collar not having to much play on the tail-belt-gear and a bolted screw this should improve the design a lot. As an intermediate step, maybe using some 2 washers for the 2 original screws holding the tail-belt-gear should improve the issue already a little bit ? I mounted some orange-coloured 101mm KBDD tail-blades, normally the KBDD don't harm the rest of the whole drive to much, as they prefer to give up first.

I made a simple grounding regarding electro-static by using the screw to tail-boom-support and linking it to my engine-mount. As the Frenzy-90-V2 has some metal tail-housing and metal-tail-boom-supports, bringing all parts to the same potential therefore seems to be pretty easy. Unfortunatelly my Volt-meter showed a rather high resistance (somehow strange) if measuring on the tail-booms surfce :thinking .. the tail-boom surface looks really nice, but I still hope it's not a pouder-coated surface, as else electric resistance would be really bad. Else need to sand the tail-booms at their ends - but to much work, or just use a cable from the tail-housing to the tail-boom-support (pretty simple) ?

Looking forward to get airborne with this nice bird, until then enjoying the interesting information given here - thank you :cheers
Best Regards,
Oliver

[phantom1500]

Hi Oliver
With the main shaft, to ensure that the hole drilled in the main shaft is true.....I would first use a drill that is snug in the original hole and use this to align the main shaft in the vise, then run a 3mm drill to enlarge the hole. This will ensure the hole is centered.

I have on my work bench a 25cc whipper snipper motor stripped down ready to put in another frenzy 90 kit, I am off tomorrow to buy some moulding clay to make a cooling shroud for the bare motor. I will do a build thread with pics as this could be fun to do.

Cheers
Darren

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Darren,

Cool - will definetly be very interesting to have some mod-F90 build thread with pictures. Do you use the helibug.com modification or your own mod? As far as I remebered, the helibug.com mod offered costs more than a bare F90-V2 kit - around USD 300.- ?

I guess with a modified 25ccm gasser, such a F90-V2 mod will be capable of some mild 3D, so will be pretty interesting as well, what flight experiences you will make :clappp ..
It's pretty tempting, comparing nitro to gas prices - hereover the difference of nitro-methanol to gaz prize per hour of flying would speak a clear language, as we pay for a box with 4 bins of 4 litre Rapicon 20% nitro heli fuel about twice as much, as e.g. Americans are paying :DOH .. funningly the argumentation when asking someone selling the fuel is, that in the US nitromethan is way less expensive than in Europe .. more funningly even, that this argument is pretty thumb, as Rapicon is produced in South-Korea (and not USA or Europe) and shipped world-wide :thinking ..

What gear-ratio will you go for ?

Looking forward to your modification,
Best Regards,

Oliver

P.S: So would be around USD 36.- to USD 2.- per flight-hour .. so assuming flight-capability is ok, after some 5 hours, considering the helibug.com mod and buying a 26ccm from the beginning would be on pair. Assuming 26ccm engine w/ muffler plus helibug-mod together to cost around USD 700.- ?

[phantom1500]

I am very keen on the heli bug conversion but funds at present elude me so I had a edge trimmer with a burnt out clutch sitting in my shed and I attacked it and now I have a bare 25cc gasser...My mill is sitting dormant and begging for some use so I may machine the frames myself...not 100% sure on that yet as helibug kit is $299?

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Darren,

Hope you don't mind, the link to the mod is here:

http://www.helibug.com/Z90-RCT7.htm

Considering for this conversion-kit some T-Rex 600 parts are required - I guess the whole conversion w/o engine muffler will be somewhere around USD 350.- ?

I don't know, what the differences (other than the displacement) of the 230/ 260/ 270/ 290 gas-engines are, e.g. differences in dimensions and mount-pattern? As far as I remember, there's a new gas-engine with better weight-power ratio, but as I'm not that familiar with gas-engines, can't remember it's name - I saw it on the new Radikal G30 ?

Tried to find yome vids on youtube, showing a Frenzy-90V2 or T-Rex700 Gasser conversion doing 3D - but couldn't find yet. :bawl

Best Regards,
Oliver

[Dingo745]

G'day Guys,
I have just begun a TZ 90 Frenzy Gasser conversion myself. I have ordered a Zenoah G240 RC engine for my powerplant. I'm hoping to use the original main gear and a 13 or 14 tooth pinion from a Century Gasser to get the right gear ratio.
I'm not using a helibug kit, but trying my own ideas first and see what the results are ?
At the moment I don't plan on remaking the side frames, modify them, yes.
I have started making a new aluminum base plate using the original as a template and I am modifying that to accommodate the Zenoah engine if it ever get's here from the USA.
Not sure which is worse, Australia Post or USPS :arggg:
I will post some pics when I have something worth showing

[phantom1500]

Aust post is worse for sure....I just finished making my fiberglass mold for a new air duct housing.

[Dingo745]

Well I finally received my Zenoah RC240 engine yesterday and was finally able to start making the new base plate.
That is now done and the engine is mounted, now the next challenge is the clutch.
I'm thinking of making a custom clutch hub to suit the Zenoah crank or maybe use the Zenoah clutch and make a new steel clutch bell.
Either option will be a head f... but that part of the challenge :arggg:

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello,

If not sure what parts to be used or made by yourself, you can take a look into Helibugs conversion-set. E.g. they seem to use the ALIGN TR-600 coupling ?

Best Regards,
Oliver

[Dingo745]

Progress Pics of my conversion attempt so far

217502

217503

217504

[Dingo745]

Did a bit more today and made a top engine mount/chassis brace. It's made from 10mm. thick ally, so it shouldn't flex.
I've also added a shot of the front chassis stiffener which has been modified for spark plug clearance. I have also added another of these stiffener brackets to between the chassis side plates below the fuel tank. This bracket also bolts to the new 4mm. thick aluminum bottom plate.
These mods appear to have regained the chassis stiffness which was lost when they were cut to accommodate the Zenoah engine.

217753

217754

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Dingo,

Looks cool your conversion :thumbup:

IMO I would exchange the genuine fuel-deposit to something having half-content, as this is one of the main approaches to recuperate weight added by a gas-engine ?

Buddy's buddy today came to our FF to fly his new Radikal-30. Cool machine, still some issues, but interestingly very smal fuel-deposit (400 ml?) - seems to be pretty reasonable:

- weight difference 91' nitro engine to gas-engine: +1000 gramm

- onboard fuel weight difference: - 300 gramm (700 ml to 400 ml content)

= + 700 gramms worse weight ratio of gasser compared to a 91 nitro-bird ..

Sure you will notice the +700 grammes - lifting both birds, my Frenzy-90V2 seemed exactly to be about this weight-difference lighter compared to the Radikal G30.

Best Regards, :cheers
Oliver

P.S: Fueling half of the genuine fuel deposit I would check the CG with the heavier gas-engine. If keeping the genuine tank, never fill it more than half to still enjoy about 10 minutes of flight time ?

[Dingo745]

Thanks for the info I will keep it in mind. I'm trying to keep the number of "foreign parts" to a minimum and keep cost down if possible.
So I will keep the fuel level low, unless I plan on a long trip maybe........
What I thought was going to be my winter project has so far taken about three days of actual work. That number would be less if still had all my equipment, but I had to sell most of it when I moved a while back and gee I could use my lathe now :dontknow
I seem to spend more of my time waiting for parts to arrive from O/S.
Unfortunately I was born with no patience.

[Dingo745]

Finished the mechanical side of the conversion, now on to the electrics.
Excuse the crap phone pics, must drag the camera out and do some better ones.
225724

225725

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Dingo,

Looks very nice :clap ..

Can you please make a short list, what parts were made by yourelf and which ones you used from other makes ? This would be very interesting and appreciated :hug:

Congrats - Best Regards,
Oliver

[Dingo745]

Well briefly, I'm still using the Frenzy main gear but with a T-Rex 700 Nitro clutch bell and 14T Pinion.
The clutch hub is made by myself to suit the Zenoah engine.
I also had to make a new clutch bell bearing carrier. to suit the 700REX clutch
The only other part I made was the new frame baseplate to suit the RC Zenoah engine.
And that's it, easy !!

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello Dingo,

Just great, as IMO helibug-conversion kit has the main drawback, that IMO it does not make sense to buy a Frenzy-90V2 for USD 300.- (including shipping, custom & taxes) to pay another USD 300.- for a conversion kit :face ..

Sure, time is money too, but your approach makes sense to me :clappp ..
From what I have seen, you relocated the throttle servo tail-wards? I guess that's not
the only mod on the side-frames ?

Thank you very much for sharing your findings,
Best Regards,

Oliver

[Dingo745]

If and when I get my CNC Mill up and running I might make kit ???
But that is a BIG but.
I agree on your thoughts about Helibug Pricing. For me in OZ to do one of his conmversions would cost me about $450. Which is about $200 more the Frenzy costs.
But you have to remember he is in business to make money, not friends.
And if you don't have the skills or equipment to duplicate his product then you really only have two options, buy it or not but it.
But I'm old school and will always try and make it myself if I can, because a dollar is still a dollar, and better off in my pocket.