View Full Version : Bergen Gasser EB
Sort of. Hard to explain.
If you have everything at 90 degrees mechanically on your heli and you set your collective stick at mid stick your pitch guage should be at 0 degrees. So, postion 3 at 50% would equal 0 degrees.
If you bottom the stick and everything is setup evenly you would get something like -9 degrees. So, position 1 at 0% would equal -9 degrees.
If you push the stick all the way forward and everything is setup evenly you would get something like =9 degrees. So, position 5 at 100% would equal +9 degrees.
That is the linear line that will look like a straight angled line on your 9CHPS display.
To adjust the pitch angles you desire - lets say -2 degrees at bottom stick. Set your pitch guage to -2 degrees and then adjust the percentage (adding in this example) until the the pitch guage is level to the flybar. You may get something like 18%, then go to the next position and adjust it to the pitch angle you want by adjusting the percentage. Your graphic display will start to look a little different now. It will angle up, then flatten out and then angle up again or something similar.
Is that making more sense now? I'm sure there are some good explanations of it around. Maybe RaptorTechnique is where I saw some. Can't remember.
mister2u
04-18-2007, 06:10 PM
Yes, that makes more sense to me. I just couldn't quite understand where the different points were coming from. That helps out alot and gives me a starting point. Thanks alot, Herc!
Great.
You'll always end up tweaking it a bit at the field - at least I do. You may find you want to soften things up for more precise hovering, etc. And of course your idle ups and throttle hold may be setup differently.
When's the first flight anticipated?
mister2u
04-18-2007, 06:40 PM
Good question. I have no idea. After watching Gary's setup video several times, I'm still 90 degreeing everything out.
cbergen
04-18-2007, 06:44 PM
That was an excellent explanation Shayne, Good Job!!
Pinecone
04-19-2007, 03:40 AM
Check out the Finless Pitch and Throttle Curves video. Do realize that electric throttle curves are a good bit different, but the concept is the same.
BTW if 0 - 50 is -9 to 0 pitch, -2 pitch will be about 39 on the pitch curve for the low stick postion. It works out to be about 1.8 degrees of pitch per 10%, or 11% = 2 degrees pitch change.
mister2u
04-19-2007, 05:12 PM
Thanks Pinecone for that video suggestion. It was great! Gonna check out Raptor Technique also, Herc. I've been to that site before, but just didn't realize the wealth of information that it contained. Thanks.
Byron
mister2u
05-14-2007, 05:36 PM
Well, I finally got my box built so that I could trasport my EB. It's made of MDF so it has a bit of weight to it. I went out to practice hovering for the first time yesterday and the strangest thing happened. It seems as if my throttle/pitch stick had gotten reversed somehow. Low stick gave me full throttle/low pitch and high stick gave me low throttle/high pitch. I checked my settings and nothing was reversed, except for the aileron. I had spooled it up a couple of weeks ago (I just had to hear how she sounded and wanted to verify that the servos were operating correctly) and all was well. Not sure what happened yesterday. I didn't damage anything because I shut her down until I could figure out what was going on. I reset the radio and will begin inputing my new settings again this evening. :dontknow
miami6
05-15-2007, 08:10 PM
do you have any pics of the MDF box ? I would like to see it
mister2u
05-16-2007, 03:36 PM
Sure, miami6. I'll post them in my personal gallery when I get home this evening.
mister2u
05-16-2007, 06:11 PM
Hey, miami6, i've got the MDF box pics uploaded. Check out my persoal gallery.
mister2u
05-19-2007, 02:17 PM
I can't believe it. It's a beautiful day here in the city of Desoto, TX (just 5 min south of Dallas, TX) and I'm back at home. I was able to figure out my problem with some things being reversed on my radio and got everything dialed back in so that I could begin hovering. I was even able to figure out how to set the throttle hold and throttle cut on the TX. Well, after trying to hover at my practice area, I noticed that my rudder was not longer turning as it should. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the main gear that the rudder gear meshes with was ground down so far that the gears no longer made contact. What would cause that? Could it possibly have been that the grass was somewhat high (about an 2" to 2 1/2")? Also, I noticed that after the rudder had stopped turning, they were folded in and not extended like they were initially. I sure hate that because I was prepared to spend a lot time out today practicing. Chris, I'll be sending in an order soon for another gear. :arggg:
rkeith2
05-19-2007, 06:51 PM
I have in the past with my gasser NOT tightened the split collars enough and the main shaft dropped down enough to allow the the tail transmission gear to grind down the mains surface.
mister2u
05-20-2007, 10:24 AM
Thanks, Ron. When the new gear arrives, I'll make sure that everything is snug. I hope that I don't have to remove too much equipment to replace the gear.
mister2u
05-25-2007, 01:04 PM
Got the new gear in yesterday and got it put on. Looks like a lot of rain this weekend, but i'll keep any eye open for some clear skies so that practice can resume.
Helisin
05-26-2007, 12:14 AM
I have in the past with my gasser NOT tightened the split collars enough and the main shaft dropped down enough to allow the the tail transmission gear to grind down the mains surface.
On my visit to Utah, Gary Travis caught that on my EB as well. Obviously I also neglected to tighten the split collars enough. The main shaft/gear hadn't slipped very much (1/16" ish) but it quickly could've caused problems if I continued using it that way. That is now part of my pre-flight. Lifting on Main gear to ensure shaft/gear has not slipped slightly causing excessive play between main crown gear / tail drive pinion.
Rob.
mister2u
06-03-2007, 07:59 PM
Well, I was able to get out yesterday to practice my hovering a bit more. IT HAPPENED AGAIN, however!!! :arggg: I do know that the slip collars were snug enough, though. Maybe the main shaft/gear wasn't initially meshed properly (obviously) in the begining both times. Guess I'll be placing another order for a friggin main gear again. I'm gonna have to try and figure out what the problem is. I hope everyone had a great weekend.
rkeith2
06-03-2007, 11:05 PM
I took my turbine out today and post flight I found my bottom collar was a tad loose.
I usually leverage something under the main shaft and hold it in place then loosen and push the collar down snug and tighten pretty tight.
FishtoFly
06-05-2007, 12:48 AM
I had the same problem with my new Eb after 3 chewed up gears and several calls to Chris He suggested to go with the non driven tail gear and the problem went away I have 2 gallons on it now after the gear change and no problem :idea:
:D :D
Odd Rotset
Garland
06-05-2007, 02:14 AM
Hey Mister on that 9C I like mine alot
I bought mine in '02 it has some scratches on the screen from years of lovin but no trouble at all. I keep feeding it batts when the need arise.
Yours is even better being the Super (I never learned the difference actually)
Check out XPS 2.4g modules for our radios. I bet ya can get a module and RX for not much over 250$
mister2u
06-05-2007, 11:48 AM
FishtoFly, I've never heard of the non driven tail gear before. I would be interested to know how it works. I may need to go that route also if I have the same problem with the main gear that I ordered this morning.
Garland, I have grown to like my 9C also. I believe the only difference with the Super is that you have no use for carrying around crystals anymore to set up your frequencies. You are able to simply dial in the frequencies on both the TX and RX (so they match). I'll check out those modules also.
mister2u
06-05-2007, 04:15 PM
One more thing. Would anyone have any pics of their main gear and rotor pinion set correctly? Are these two pieces supposed to have any space between them (regarding the mesh between them)? Just wann get all the answers that I can before placing the new gear on. Thanks.
FishtoFly
06-05-2007, 09:46 PM
I dont recall the part # but Chris will help you out, you also need a shorter mainshaft
cbergen
06-05-2007, 09:58 PM
http://www.helifreak.com/album_mod/upload/6265ada781eb4d9367f0d2a14ab736cb.jpg
Hard to see in this pic, but you should have little to NO backlash, but the gear should still spin freely.
Now how to get that backlash down to a minimum?
If you were to remove the front transmission assy (this is the cage that holds the tail drive pinion), You would find the front "ears" have a hole that is slotted up and down. This allows the the up and down movement needed to set the gearmesh.
A problem here is that it is difficult to move the front of the transmission up and down when it is being squeezed and held in place by the pressure of the upper frames.
One way to adjust it is to tap the front end down by reaching in from the rear with a 3mm allen driver using it as a drift, and tapping on the handle to force the "ears" on the transmission to at least flush with the bearing block.
Tap the front, then check your mesh, tap it again, until you get little or no backlash between the two gears while still allowing the main gear to spin freely.
cbergen
06-05-2007, 09:59 PM
Odd,
He does NOT have a driven tail.......