Jermo's DX7 Setup Video

[dogfart]

Does anyone know how to use the DX7 program mixes to eliminate CCPM interactions?

[WillJames]

Try Expo enabled in the Swash menu. Helped a lot on my Logo 14.

Swash Expo

[ray jr.]

where can i find this video for my t-rex 450 and dx7
thanks

[TheBum]

The link is in the first post of this thread.

[ray jr.]

thanks,found the video

[TomRex]

What does the gyro sense menu require when using the gyro sw rather than the gear sw? I mean why not use the gyro sw? Doesn't the gyro sw eliminate all the computations? If so why not just use the gyro sw? I've setup a few DX systems and used the gyro menu only, never had any of these difficulties. I'm not getting it, 1 equals 1 no matter what side of the planet you're on. gotta be an easier way save for going Futaba!

[FreeFlow]

I have a [trex450SE(new)V2 / DX7 / HS-65MG / GY401with9650]. I followed the Finless setup videos CCPM etc and the birds headstock /servos are perfect (thanks so much Bob). I then did the tail settings and it good too. Then I setup and changed my DX7 settings like in the Jermo-finless video. Now it has re-adjusted all my prior settings... linkage/servos/headstock so that I can see it all miss aligned. I have gone through this process a few times from the start and I keep getting the same results. What am i missing or doing wrong?


Mark

[helis101]

Freeflow- Start over with a fresh model on the DX7 then watch Bobs videos over again . You shoudnt be changeing any settings on your DX7 after your setup.

[Jermo]

Your gain will be LOWER on the DX7. Bob's video's are on the Futaba so the gain setting is different.

My DX7 Video doesn't change anything from Bob's video except the gain setting. In fact my video was made as an addon to Bob's to show the DX7 setup instead of the Futaba. It should be generally the same otherwise.

Other than the gain setting Bob's video is the authority if the two video's disagree. Let me know if i have error's in the Video. I'm long overdue to make the next version anyway.

[mk1spitfire]

Hi do think the dx7 is better than 9303 2.4?

Also do think a hL teleebee gyro will be suitable with a 9560 or will i need to upgrade to a 401. Im unsure if i will be using the digital interface as the hl800 doesn't have this?

[Hulley]

Great video! :thumbup: Very helpful with my DX7 set-up on my SE V2. Thanks a million!

[Pinecone]

IMO, the X9303 2.4 is much better than the DX7. More mixes, more channels, and the grpahics display is much nicer. If you want them, you can have up to 5 flight modes. More radio that most people need. :)

Also feels better in the hand as the case is metal, so a bit more heft.

[mk1spitfire]

hi, I already have th 9x2(9303) 35mhz and have had much success with it. Have just aqyured my Dx7. It feels and looks the same. At present the dx7 is slightly lighter due to a 1500mah battery compared to 2700mah bat in the 9303.

The Dx7 is a joy to program. Simular JR program.

My only gripe with the dx7 is it doesn't have a glider feature and thus miss crow breaking/butterfly for use at slope soaring and flat field gliding!

Can this mix be put in the Dx7?

[Pinecone]

Or get a 2.4 GHz Spektrum module for your 9x2. :)

I have one for sale. :)

[mk1spitfire]

yes thought of that.

latentcy with modules my friend!

better to go direct. I find i don't need any feature of the 9303 to fly helis that the dx7 doesn't have, don't need any extra channels,but sure miss glider functions!!!

Anyway got a question for you pine cone if you don't mind.
The 401 light stays on indicating im in heading hold mode yet after a ahort time starts to flash!!!
The advatage of gyro on top is you can see the bloody light.

Any sugestions

[Finless]

If it starts to flash then it thinks it is getting a rudder stick input. Usually when I have seen this it is a bad RX or your picking up noise.

If you move the rudder stick back and forth a bit does it stop blinking when you recenter the stick? If so your pots on your sticks may be getting old and thus the rudder signal is jumping around (called dead band). You can HELP the issue by adding in about 15% expo on rudder but the real fix is to replace the pots.

Also make sure you have NO TRIM on any of your flight conditions! You may have some trim in normal and when you go to idle it blinks because idle up doesn't have trim or visa versa.

Bob

[mk1spitfire]

Hey Bob, how are you?

I take it you mean the pots in the transmitter? The new Dx7 and a6100e is a day old! (but I'm like you a day wiser!)

Just had a couple of additional flights and this led flashing issue hasn't happened.
I am worried that it could strike again? I'm convinced it was still then began to flash.

(It kept flashing when stick centered and after moving rudder)

When you plug in your battery, do you do this whilst holding the model, or connect whilst it's sitting pretty on the ground?

The reason I ask is that you have to be very quick to put it back still on the ground, if holding, to plug battery in, so that the gyro can initialize.

I have noticed that if I don't do this,the gyro led will flash, so have to unplug and replug keeping still. I have found it harder on the knees but generally the gyro suits a ground battery connection.(Or stick it on table and lower it after!)


Ok just done another flight and the gyro no matter how still i kept it would not initialize It took 10 attempts!!???????????????????????????????????????? ???

Later into the flight the tail began to move back wards and forward slowly. sign of empty battery?
Mk1

[mk1spitfire]

Bob,
The helifreak community is great.

Looks like i needed to rebind my new dx7 and 6100e after my initial set up in order to tell the reciever new neutral centers.

This has stopped the LED from slow flashing when I power up.

It nows stays lit.

Rebinding is important

Thanks

Mk1

[zaboaa]

Looking for some help, posted on other forums with no luck. Been flying my 450 for almost 3 months now with no tail issues. I rebuilt the the entire frame (new parts). Now my nose want's to move left no matter what I do. So I have several ? now that I am a little more experienced with the DX7 and 401.

1.) Most guides say to mechanically adjust the rotor in rate mode (not HH), how do you get it out of HH? I cannot get the solid red light off no matter what I try.

2.) when I adjust the the rotor to center, it measures dead center. When I adjust the limit on one side (just backing it off the stop) it still seems to over extend to the other side, any suggestions?

3.) On my gyro Sens page it reads:

Auto

Rate:

F. Mode
NORM 0
ST 1:0



0: 72%
1: 72%


If I reduce the gain to say 55% it spins faster, increase to 85% still spins, but not as bad and the tail wags. Anywhere in between the tail still rotate (nose left, no wag). I'm convinced it's mechanical, but everything seems dead on. Also, What does the F. Mode exactly do?

Any help appreciated, thanx...

[mk1spitfire]

You will not get out of heading hold as you have set the gear or aux channel to gyro sense in your system set up menu.

You have to switch off and switch on holding the two buttons and get to the system sub menu where you have assigned either aux or gear channel,often the gear and set it back from gyro to gear/aux( gear-gear/aux-aux)

Once this is done,return to the flight screen, you will then be able to switch the light off by switching the gear or aux switch depending on which channel you have inserted you gyro gain wire.
This should allow you now to adjust mechanically and center.

Light off means non heading hold mode,

Once mechanically adjusted go back to system menu and and turn your assigned aux or gear channel back to gyro. This will put the gyro permanently in heading hold mode, as you had before.
The gyro sense set up enables you not to have to use the ATV end point for gyro sensitivity.

The F mode allows you to assign different or same gyro sense settings for the 3 flight modes. normal, stunt, stunt. A higher head speed could result in an increased/decreased gyro sense setting.
In you case you have set 72% no matter what flight mode you are in.0 or 1.

Hope this helps you to understand.

Mk1

[Skarn]

Looking for some help, posted on other forums with no luck. Been flying my 450 for almost 3 months now with no tail issues. I rebuilt the the entire frame (new parts). Now my nose want's to move left no matter what I do. So I have several ? now that I am a little more experienced with the DX7 and 401.

1.) Most guides say to mechanically adjust the rotor in rate mode (not HH), how do you get it out of HH? I cannot get the solid red light off no matter what I try.

2.) when I adjust the the rotor to center, it measures dead center. When I adjust the limit on one side (just backing it off the stop) it still seems to over extend to the other side, any suggestions?

3.) On my gyro Sens page it reads:

Auto

Rate:

F. Mode
NORM 0
ST 1:0



0: 72%
1: 72%


If I reduce the gain to say 55% it spins faster, increase to 85% still spins, but not as bad and the tail wags. Anywhere in between the tail still rotate (nose left, no wag). I'm convinced it's mechanical, but everything seems dead on. Also, What does the F. Mode exactly do?

Any help appreciated, thanx...

The easiest way for me to get out of HH mode and into Rate mode was as per the Finless video.....set your normal mode gain to below 50%....in other words where you show:

0: 72%
1: 72%

Make it 0:49% or lower......
Another easy way is to set it up like this:

Norm: 0
ST1: 1

0: 72%
1: 49% or lower

Then when you switch to stunt mode 1 (ST1) you will automatically take it out of HH mode since the gain is set below 50%.

Good luck!
Skarn

[mk1spitfire]

If you drop it to 49% that may well take it out of heading hold but when doing a hover check will you have enough sensitivity in the gyro?.

Mk1

[Skarn]

If you drop it to 49% that may well take it out of heading hold but when doing a hover check will you have enough sensitivity in the gyro?.

Mk1

Oh I don't keep it like that, only to enter rate mode to adjust it...as soon as I'm done, I pop it right back into HH mode.......Of course I'm a noob so others advice would be very helpfu.

Skarn

[mjdee14]

Everyone above has stated correctly...the gryo must be below 50% to be non HH.

I have mine set up with 68% in 0 and 25% on 1 then I also have mine set in Auto..when I need to make adjustments I select 1 for norm, make the adjustments to the servo linkage or position till it hovers straight, then reselect Norm back to position 0.

I believe the F mode is for Autos...it cuts of the motor.

[manike]

Thanks for making this video Jermo, it's been most informative. :)

I know you said it doesn't really matter but so I can be consistent in case I need more help... :o Do you guys recommend connecting the Gyro to gear or Aux2?

Thanks. :noteworthy