PDA

View Full Version : Scorpion HK-4530-540KV (Limited Edition)


Pages : 1 2 3 [4] 5

aussiemick
05-29-2011, 02:23 AM
I just got back from flying the first five packs through mine too (# 07).

The motor is hot but it is cooler than the 4525LE that came off the heli.
I could do consecutive flights with it, the 4525 had to have a 10 minute break between flights. At the end of the 5 flights it was about as hot as the 4525 comes down after every flight.

Top Amps reading was 154A for 6000W. @ 1920 Headspeed and 14' collective.

http://www.helifreak.com/picture.php?albumid=6563&pictureid=56482

Pinion (14 tooth) is about right for the setup, the PWM only ever maxed out during a speed run, headpseed was rock solid, lost about 100 RPM at the end of a full pitch speed run. I need to play with the jive settings a little, I am getting a 30 rpm over shoot in headspeed.

Mick

shaman3
05-29-2011, 02:33 AM
Hi Vinger,
the circlip is supposed to be removed on the 45x motors in the TDR.
You might want to have a look: here (http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=de&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.powercroco.de/Ritzelmontage.html&usg=ALkJrhjbVaHjlf8ZIk4mnPiNNcmJfbiguA) you find detailed assembly hints :)

Regards, Daniel

nyc863
05-29-2011, 05:58 PM
What happens if you don't have a 10 minute break with the old 4525LE then ? the motors are rated for ridiculous temps, do you think back to back flights would be a problem?

From the graph (it is hard to read) what do you see as the sustained few second peak amps? Often speed controllers quote max amps for a few seconds, so I think that is a more interesting figure than any sub-second spike..

helicraze
05-29-2011, 07:05 PM
I think its fine to fly back to back on the scorpion motors, the outer can gets hotter once you land as it stops spinning

aussiemick
05-29-2011, 09:42 PM
What happens if you don't have a 10 minute break with the old 4525LE then ? the motors are rated for ridiculous temps, do you think back to back flights would be a problem?

I am not sure, I never did it, the heat was fairly high after a flight (measured at 82'C).

I wasn't prepared to just stick another battery in it and go fly. I let it cool down till it was possible to hold on to it for about 5 seconds without burning myself.



From the graph (it is hard to read) what do you see as the sustained few second peak amps? Often speed controllers quote max amps for a few seconds, so I think that is a more interesting figure than any sub-second spike..

Depending on how long you fly straight and level I reckon about 100 AMPS

Mick

ElectricSheep
05-29-2011, 10:43 PM
Mick, How do the 4530 logs compare to when you had the 4525 on the heli? What settings will you change on the Jive? I'm just running the default settings right now, but I can use a buddy's program card.

Vinger
05-29-2011, 11:40 PM
Hi Vinger,
the circlip is supposed to be removed on the 45x motors in the TDR.
You might want to have a look: here (http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=de&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.powercroco.de/Ritzelmontage.html&usg=ALkJrhjbVaHjlf8ZIk4mnPiNNcmJfbiguA) you find detailed assembly hints :)

Regards, Daniel
Thanks, saw that before I started the swap, but I am not really convinced that the pinion holding the motor together by rubbing on the outer shell of the motor bearing is such a good idea. The 14t pinion can only push on the outer rim of the motor bearing as the inside are machined away to fit over the chamfer where the shaft changes diameter.

I am planning to enlarge the motor mount holes in the carbon side frames and fit a doubler to the side frames iot allow the motor mount to sit higher in the frames which will give the pinion some clearance from the motor.

helicraze
05-29-2011, 11:45 PM
When spinning the motor can is forced down.

I do it this way, i remove circlip and pull the can off the motor, i removed the wave washer from the shaft inside and put .1MM or .2MM rc car 10MM shims in (normally .4-.6MM), until when i put the can back on it does not "float", then i add 1 or 2 or 3 wave washers underneath and finally position the pinion, the motor can moves maybe .1MM up and down.

The lower wave washers above the pinion only touch the inner race of the bearing and always keep the can down.

helicraze
06-02-2011, 07:21 PM
I found some good flat washers on ebay $3.50 shipped from HK for .1/.2/.3MM washers 10MM ID 12MM OD.

Also check all your frame bolts, i found a few (including skids) quite loose since fitting this LE motor as no doubt the torque of it is twisting the frame!!!

jointer
06-03-2011, 02:30 AM
HC, can you check one thing - is your frame straight when looking from front?
I have a light feeling my frame is "curved", but i am not able to measure that somehow.
It seems to be barely visible, or i am imagining things. :)
Sure, it was crashed, but i think the reason might be torque from the motor...

aussiemick
06-03-2011, 02:35 AM
if you want to find out if your side plates are bent put a rule on the side and see if you can see light between the rule and the carbon plate.

It would be very unlikely that the carbon will bend and stay bent. If it was laminated and cured flat then it will stay flat.

Mick

jointer
06-03-2011, 02:46 AM
Do not have a rule :) but do have spare Radix FBL blades and straight piece of plastic...
If you look from the top, the front of the heli is sligtly bent to the left.
Not noticable on the battery tray, but measurable on the top part.
Strange.
I do not think my light crash with the plane could cause that.
It is flying, so what, nothing. :)

aussiemick
06-03-2011, 02:54 AM
loosen all the bolts holding the frame together and see if you tweak the frames till they are straight, then tighten the bolts back up randomly, always checking fro straight.

If you hold a straight edge length ways just above the battery tray and another as high up on the frames as you can (servos will get in the way)you will be able to see any twist in the frames by looking straight down on the straight edges. Both straight edges should be parallel.

Mick

jointer
06-03-2011, 03:09 AM
No no no, i am just leaving for a weekend funfly, no messing with anything. :)
It could be also from transport, because my bag with stuff is touching the canopy from the left side in the car.
Maybe checking later.

Edit: my bottom main shaft screw is also bent when looking from top, i replaced both of them with 12.9 long time ago, but this is something which will just happen, because of the 5.5kW peaks. I think.

g-bru
06-03-2011, 08:19 AM
I found some good flat washers on ebay $3.50 shipped from HK for .1/.2/.3MM washers 10MM ID 12MM OD.

HC can you provide the link for these please? :thumbup:

G.

jhunter
06-03-2011, 10:10 PM
Thanks-Jay

helicraze
06-04-2011, 02:12 AM
Frames look straight (unless my eyes are bent LOL)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140518539540&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

3Racing (#3RAC-SW10) Stainless Steel 10mm Shim Spacer


Also this motor rocks! Anyone wanna sell me theres? I want another LOL it hammers at 1950RPM

helicraze
06-04-2011, 04:44 AM
Some speed flight testing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9LDp_vQv0k

Heli G
06-04-2011, 05:54 AM
Thanks-Jay

Nope, they were limited to 100 units and are sold out - http://www.scorpionsystem.com/catalog/motors/hk45/HK_4530_540

Heli G
06-04-2011, 05:56 AM
Some speed flight testing

HC, did you guys measure the speed?

helicraze
06-04-2011, 08:14 PM
Nope did not measure.

I see the bottom of the main gear wears a bit due to the frame flexing LOL

Gave the motor more backlash as when flying hard it did not have much play

helicraze
06-05-2011, 01:30 AM
Did a little maintenance on the TDR, after 100 flights with the LE motor i replaced the main gear (little worn on the lower half) lower bearing on main gear (where one way is) was rough so i replaced that (same size as LE motor bearings, just heat and tap out), lubed the one way bearing, move a shim to tighten up the tail drive gear backlash.

These motors have monster torque and twist the frames. Also i want to find better washers for the motor mount bolts, even the radix tail spacers after using them once, the 2nd time they mushroom in.

clayboy
06-05-2011, 04:15 AM
any descent hardware shop should have hardened washers

billiano
03-06-2012, 02:28 PM
Wait a sec, I'd better get home soon, as I just got a bunch of delivery e-mails and all of the following will arrive TODAY (I didn't plan it that way... it just happened.:dontknow):

- 4530 Motor
- Scott Gray 720mm F3C blades
- CF Logo 600 canopy
- Another Logo 400 canopy (for a 400SE stretch project)
- More Tenax fasteners

My wife will be asking questions if all of these show up on the doorstep before I get home:
http://www.scorpionsystem.com/files/i1,797_popup_image.jpg
http://www.readyheli.com/assets/images/04453_b_0.jpg
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/mtblades/images/RT_SG2.jpg
https://www.readyheli.com/assets/images/mik4001.jpg
:face

ElecSheep

I have the same trouble my wife's alter ego is detective regarding helies :quotesand by chance she knows what is what.
But when I am telling her how to do something in the car.......
She tells me ....I cannot do it is compicated:face

NevB
03-06-2012, 04:42 PM
wow, 720mm blades!

what tail blades will you be running with those?