How much collective u-got ?

[aramsdell]

How much collective range are we all getting out of the Swift? I've got the metal head and arms and hollow main shaft. I am getting about 18 deg. +/- 9. Ail and elev. I'm getting +/- 6 1/2 deg. I had to do a mod to get this much coll. Shorten the slider pins on the washout by 1-1/2 mm and I modified the Bell-mixer set-up. See below. The change to the Bell-mix got me another 1-1/2 to 2 deg. of collective and about 1/2 deg + of ail and elev. This mod works because it moves the bell mixer closer toward the feathering spindle and effectively increases the throw.

What are you guys getting and how? What setup on the head other than stock...
My mod.
a. take bolt out of mixer arm.
b. move spacer out to the bolt head.
c. where the spacer was add a step washer from a Blade CP . The
washer is 3mm I.D. the small raised part faces the bearing
and spaces it away from the blade grip. Watch that the links don't strike the blade grip. You may have to turn the top link
1/4 turn or less to keep it from rotating enough to hit the grip.

Sorry I used a broken part for example.....

[Greybird]

My range is +10 to -10. I did grind those pins.

[bulldog]

hello !!!

my range are -9 to + 11 .
perfect for me .

bye .
bulldog

[Adam Turner]

On the carbon i can get 14+/- degreese and 7 on cyclic.
Mine has all the head upgrades. No mods needed.

[aramsdell]

My stock 2 bearing shaft with metal head seems to run out of shaft for available collective. Side by each the new 3 bearing solid shaft is the same longer but the holes for the lower collar and the head bolt are the same spacing. I have the part to try my mod and I'll keep posted here.
This is the mod. You will have a 3 bearing shaft when done.

Hirobo part # 0412-110 or 945(900) who knows what that means.

The mast is 203 mm long, 10 mm thick O.D.,chromed or silver in color, where the lower part of head with pins for washout base are it is knurled but still not more than 10mm. An old plastic head piece shown is a tight fit onto it.
Align it with either the 2 bearing or 3 bearing shaft so that the knurled part is at same end as top of original shaft.
Put a 3mm bolt through the top holes. You'll notice the new shaft is 3 mm longer at the top. Get out the dremel and cutter wheel. Cut 2mm plus the saw kerf off it.
Down at the bottom you'll notice that the Hirobo has 2 sets of holes.
If you use the lower set for the shaft collar as you have modified it already it is a 3 bearing shaft that is now 2 to 2-1/2 mm taller.
If you cut some off the bottom it can be a 2 bearing shaft !
I have gotten this far. I just got home from work and spent more time writing this than actually cutting the shaft.
The next step is to lengthen all the links to the swash by 1mm and adjust throws for more collective/cyclic.

I keep this thread posted as the numbers I posted to start were very accurate and painstakingly measured.

[aramsdell]

Adam, You lucky dog. Do you have the 550 or 620 carbon? Is the main shaft a different length to allow more travel? I have the metal head and washout arms, plastic washout base, plastic grips. Still waiting on metal Bell mixer arms. Are the Bell-mixer arms different in metal , possibly already moving the linkage points in closer as my mod did? Do the metal grips allow more travel than the plastic? More questions?

Now... Your contest Win with the Swift. That was on a 4S 3700 FP?
And the 600+ motor? and the pinion was how many teeth?
And......most importantly did you get more than 1 flight out
of that battery?

[Adam Turner]

Woah that a whole bunch of questions. First off, i just checked that on my stock swift 16, no upgrades, i can get 16 deg each way, but then it does bind on the pins. LOL

Yeah i have been running the 620SE since october thet bird rocks. Been testing Booms Belts, and now power!! its a 10s Swift now.

Theres no change in shaft length. Its just the standard Long tripple bearing shaft. Remember adding length to the shaft increases the CCG so it will behave slower.

In the Clubman 3D comp I was using the first New Formula 6s 3700 on its second cycle, and the original 600 motor on 14T. I still have the same pack and it still kicks ass after god knows how much abuse and cycles. The capacity is the only thing dropping now, shaving about 30 seconds off my flight times.
The Plus Motor has DOUBLE the power on 9T, and with FP 6s Evo5000 packs you just cant bog it.

10s is manic, I have the NEU 1915 1Y. and 10s 3700 Evo22 packs.

The 4s setup work really well on 600+ motor and 14T pinoin. Make sure you use a good ESC like the Electron 80, because the lower the voltage the higher the amps. (im sure the 50/60 could handel it but you dont want it shutting down and causing a crash)
Heres the 4s video on my all stock swift.
http://www.centuryhelimedia.com/videos/products/CN1040/Swift16_4S.zip

[aramsdell]

Adam, Thanks for those answers! What is CCG ? col/cyc gain? So instead of getting like 8 minutes with the 11 t pinion on 4S with the 600 + I could go to 12 or 13 for maybe 6 minutes and speed her up? I've got a 5S 4000 coming from Maxamps.com Their 4S 4000 has a little less punch than the FP 3700. I was thinking of staying with the same pinion with this 5S. My ESC is the 55/70 Electron and the way I have it mounted in the cooling air from both the canopy and the exhauist from the 600+ it barely even gets warm.

Again Adam congrats on your success in the hobby and thanks for the answers.

Alan Ramsdell Sanford Maine USA

[aramsdell]

Got the new Hirobo mast installed. Hirobo hollow main = 3.9 oz. Century solid 3 bearing main = 4.3 oz Century stock 2 bearing <=2 oz. I installed as a 2 bearing using same lower collar. It just sticks down lower. Will add the bearing block and 3 brg collar tomorrow. This will probably help to eliminate some of the last little shakes I occasionally get on spooldown on hard surfaces. Rocking the cyclic will almost eliminate them if you are still getting that problem on spooldown.
I had to lengthen links up to the swash to reposition it in the center of free travel on the mast. Increasing throws to accomodate the extra travel cause some links on the head to rub on other parts, like the blade grips, neccessitating adding thin shims between the bell-mixer arms and the blade grips. Rubbing also happened down at the washout links. They started to hit the slider pins so I had to space them out from the washout base with some 3 mm washers.
Now I've got no binding. I could probably get a little more collective if I try but it's now about 1-1/2 degrees more each way than yesterday.
Today its 10-1/2 degrees each way and +/-6-1/2 to 7 pitch and +/- 7roll.
This ought to be enough for me. I'm still learning inverted at 100 feet.
5 s- 4000 coming. The extra head speed over the 4S 4000 ought to keep me happy for a while! Any got a mod or tip let's here it ..



Al in Maine :D