It happened to me, AGAIN!!!!!.....

[Ziggy2711]

...but with much different results. That's right, my engine quit on me again. Here's what happened:

Since a break in my job has allowed me to fly and hang on the internet again, I decided to make a quick series of flights. As part of my preflight checks, I waited about 5 to 10 minutes after my 1st successful flight. Then I checked my new emoli packs and voltage and everything was ok (Of course i learned that the hard way). Double checked all surfaces which moved ok with the radio on, etc.

I fired everything up, took off with no problems. Then, at about 20 or 30ft I heard the engine loosing RPM (AGAIN!!!!!!!). I quickly brought the heli in for an auto!! I ACTUALLY DID IT CORRECTLY THIS TIME!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Not a single scratch, bend, or dent on my Raptor!! YES!!!!

On the ground, I tried to apply throttle, but it sounded like a faint jack hammer for a about 2 seconds, then it died. This was at full collective and the blades barely moved 4 inches or so. I brought the throttle back down and tried again. Then, a big puff of white smoke came from the Hacker motor. It smelled like really nasty burnt plastic. Real chemical like! At this point I realized I better unplug the emolis before something dumb like a fire happens. As I was bending over, my Phoenix ESC beeped as if I just plugged it in (I hope that wasn't a bad thing). I eventually unplugged everything ok.

After it was all unplugged, I touched the ESC. Damn, it was hotter than I have ever felt it. I then touched the Hacker and it was freakin hot!! Correct me if I a am wrong but did my Hakcer die on me? If so, now I see why everyone trashed theirs. I guess they do suck and I should have listened to you guys that recommended I change to the Z motors.

Anyway, the plastic smell still lingers on the heli so I will take it apart this weekend and perform an investigation.



For all you experts out there, please correct me if I am wrong. Here are my observations on Remote Control AP:

1. Flying is the easiest part!!! (Seriously) I feel no stress or anxiety although I am a newbie. I am totally at ease once the skids leave the ground.
2. Maintenance, proper setup, checking over equipment, etc. is the hardest part of making this successful! I always worry that my batteries or motor will die. I always wonder and slightly worry if one small bolt will work lose and crash the entire rig.
3. This profession is expensive. (I just threw that in for fun).

Anyway, let me know your comments on all this. Thanks guys!

[MarkWebber]

This profession is expensive. (I just threw that in for fun).


If only it was fun :roll: :D
Maintenance, proper setup, checking over equipment, etc. is the hardest part of making this successful!

That's definately a good point. Once all that is done, the flying can be anitclimatic.

[AZ ChopperCam]

wow!

3 words

DITCH THE HACKER!

They run about 60-80% hotter than a good motor. and when I say good I mean Actro or even a Z-Power. My Hacker used to run 200°+. My Actro is about 100°.


your assessments on AP seem valid to me!

[dreslism]

Yes, your hacker died. One of mine did the same in the past.

Send it into hacker (They have a return form on their site.)

when you get the new one back from them, just sell it NIB to some of the airplane guys over on RCgroups.

go buy something else.

If you have a R30/R50 frameset, then you most likely cannot put a Zpower in there as you cannot adjust the gearing.

[MLaBoyteaux]

Congratulations on the auto! Experience pays.

My Raptor developed a serious lock-out problem a couple of weeks ago. After tearing it down and replacing all the bearings, it turned out to be the power switch. That's it, I'm removing the power switches from all of my helis. Fortunately, it was generating RF and swamping the receiver instead of a hard open failure.

I was test flying the Condor 3 weeks ago and it started twitching badly in pitch. The servo lead on the pitch servo had broken at the circuit board (JR DS8311).

So a $100 servo and $50 in bearings for the Raptor and they're both back to flying status.

For each time I take the helis out, I expect to spend at least 5 to 10 minutes on a thorough visual post flight inspection when I get back to the house. Even doing that didn't expose the servo or switch problem. Those manifested themselves during flight ops.

[AZ ChopperCam]

That's it, I'm removing the power switches from all of my helis.

For just about a year now I have been doing just that. No switches anywhere. Most of my ships have a BEC but for the ones that do not I just plug the battery straight into the RX. No extra point of failure and I like it that way.

[tcgliderguy]

>Yes, your hacker died. One of mine did the same in the past.

Send it into hacker (They have a return form on their site.)

when you get the new one back from them, just sell it NIB to some of the airplane guys over on RCgroups. <

That's exactly what I did.... after the first Hacker sawed through it's own windings due to bad bearings.... and the second Hacker's bearing seized up completely..... I sold the third one NIB on E-Bay, bought an Actro 24-5 (yes, at twice the price... but it WORKS!)

Just bite the bullet... You'll be glad you did!

-TC

[Ziggy2711]

Ok, so my Hacker died and they suck. I will get around to returning it soon but thank you for your feedback and suggestions on this!

In the meantime, I will make some modificiations to my Rap50 Titan while the heli sits in my garage. Here is my to do list so tell me what you think. Remember that I basically have everything in stock configuration:

1. Get rid of those heave Emolis. They were great to learn on and were very satisfying to properly build and fly but now it's time to move on. Will switch to a lighter 2p 4000 lipo setup mounting them to the skids.

2. Cut a portion of the side frames for better motor cooling. (Thanks DJ for #1 and #2)

3. Purchase a new motor! I know the Z Power is cheaper than the Actro but would it be worth the cost? Or should I suck it up and purchase the Actro instead?

I know how some of you feel about the Actros but what about the Z Powers?

4. Install my AP2000i that I have had for 2 weeks now. Also install my VisionLock on Tilt once it arrives.

5. Continue the endless cycle of double and triple checking everything for the smallest ding, scratch, dent, loose screw, etc.

By the way, what the heck is a BEC? Sorry for the incompetence!

[dreslism]

Ziggy. I don't think there is a Zpower that will work for you using lipos in the titan.

I have a titan also, and Gary said theZ50A-600 and Z50A-800 would not work since you can't really muck with the gearing on the R30/50/titan frameset.

Just this past weekend I upgraded my titan by buying the e550/620 frameset and a few other pieces.

I did this so I could put different motors in like the Z50A-600, but as I did it, I found out they are out of stock till middle or end of MARCH!

Anyhow, I think you are limited in what you can stick in there for a motor in your current setup.

BEC is Battery Eliminator Circuit.

Small little board that taps into your flight pack and outputs 5V for your RX instead of Nimh or NiCD pack for Rx.

[AZ ChopperCam]

but with Gary's newer style conversion, the one that puts the motor on top behind the shaft, I think the gearing options are better

[Ziggy2711]

Hey guys. What you are saying completely makes sense. Since the Zpower will not work, will the Actro work without any extra modifications necessary? I forgot to mention that i have the eccpm conversion since I have DJ's mount so I can't mount a Zpower on top, correct? Please tell me I can just bolt an Actro on in place of the Hacker and that it will work properly!

By the way, thank you for the definition Scott.

[MLaBoyteaux]

That's what I did with my Raptor conversion. The bearings went south in the Hacker and I replaced it with an Actro. I used the mounting plates I already had for the Hacker, I just had to get a pinion adapter to fit the Actro. It would be a little easier to get the correct mounting plates from Gary, but the ones for the Hacker will work.

[Ziggy2711]

So all I would have to do is get a pinion adapter to fit the Actro? Is this a special order item or a common one that I can find at my hobby shop this weekend?

I think I will keep things easy and go with the Actro although it is so expensive. As you suggested Mark, I will leave the mounting plate from the Hacker in place and give it a try.

Thanks!

[MLaBoyteaux]

I got the pinion adapter from Gary at TPPacks.com.

I don't think it's something you'll find at a local hobby shop.

I'm intrigued by what Scott did, converting his raptor to a new set of e550/620 frames. I'm pursueing a new project for a front mount and this would allow the use of a Z-Power motor and more options for power.

[dreslism]

I'm intrigued by what Scott did, converting his raptor to a new set of e550/620 frames. I'm pursueing a new project for a front mount and this would allow the use of a Z-Power motor and more options for power.

I am intriguing, aren't I? :mrgreen:

The other thing is that your lipos (if you have A123's get askman lower frames) are actually in the frames, (what a concept huh?). I always hated them hanging out on the skids.

It will run you about $100 to order up the parts to do it.

If you have a DJ front mount right now, then it most likely won't fit perfectly anymore as the whole layout is different, and you will have a servotray up front now that you did not have with the eccpm setup.

I like the new setup. Sold my old frames and all the extra parts, and it more than paid for me to upgrade to the new frameset.

Only downside is I did it last week, knowing the Z's were out of stock, expecting to just use my hacker until new Z's were in, but pinion is 5mm for new raptor set, and that damn hacker is 6mm.

Could drill it out, but I have the A50-16S, KV is too low to run with new raptor gearing, so my heli sits on the bar, taunting me everynight saying "Why did you do this to me?"

It will be out of commision for about 1 month till the new motors come in. :(

Poor planning on my part.

Good thing my L10 can still lift my mount.