Blade CP or Axe CP?

[USNRIS]

Seriously want to get into heli's, but don't have the cash for a TREX-class bird. Been looking at/reading about the Blade CP and Axe CP, but haven't seen any advice for one over the other. Any help/advice much appreciated!!

Jeff

[maltydog]

well, i'll be able to answer later tonight. i just purchased the axe cp at lunch today and can't wait to get home. i've had the blade cp pro for about 6 weeks or so. it it ok but the axe cp definitely looks more sturdy and is slightly bigger. from what i have read, it is a little more stable than the blade (probably due to the size). . i already have the lipos so bought a mini deans to jst connector so i can use the lipos on the new axe. the blade is pretty twitchy - especially after flying the trex. i think i'm gonna like the axe cp. sure looks nice and solid. plus a nice in between size between the blade cp and the trex.

gw.

[USNRIS]

gw - thanks for the reply. looking forward to hearing how the Axe works out. think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and order one - I have a $20 coupon from Tower. btw, I'm actually in your neck of the woods. I live in Flower Mound. just here in Tampa mobilized with the Navy.

[maltydog]

Warning Warning: below text written by person with two months flying (hovering) experience. may contain inaccurate descriptions and terminology and naive assumptions. read at your own risk and cross verify all information given below.
do not base your purchasing decision solely on this review, blah blah blah.

ok, got home put one flight on it bone stock. gave it the once over - checked various connections and screws. then flew with a 1320 mah lipo. not bad but quite a bit of drift to the left and forward. motor was very hot. it was definitely not as smooth as i was hoping it would be out of the box. the tail was starting to really get out of control toward the end of the flight.

so, changed out the radio to the dx7 (ar6000 receiver that was in my blade cp pro). cut slots in the heat sink that was covering a vent hole in the motor, paid a little more attention to the balance of the heli. much much improved. actually not quite responsive enough. i got it to hover very smooth and stable but still had to use a lot of right trim. i'll adjust the linkages for that. helis are never a hands off hover but it could hold a second or two hands off. much better heli with the dx7 and a few adjustments / tweaks. the tail still drifts just like the cp pro which is irritating. i'll play around with the proportional mixing and other controls. i might just go ahead and put on the eflite gyro that was on the cp pro as well and see how much an improvement that makes. overall not bad for $200. but on the other hand it is a $200 heli so can't expect a whole lot for that price. if i could only have one heli and had to decide between these two, i would choose the axe cp.
i'll spend the next week fine tuning and it will probably be a nice little back yard heli for calm days.

It is nothing like a trex though (or other larger heli). i flew the trex between flights one and two and it is just a completly different flying experience. spot on accuracy, pinpoint control, and to tail movement. if you can afford it, just get the trex instead. the SA model is only $200 but of course you have to add another $500 or so to get it in the air.

[maltydog]

3/15 update: i got into more of the adjustment details this morning. checking the blade pitch noted that one blade was right on but the other blade had about 3 degrees positive pitch at neutral. also turned the proportional rudder mixing screw about 1/3 turn clockwise. i can now reduce the amount of right aileron trim but still have it set on about 1/4 way. the swashplate is tilted sllightly to the right due to the trim. i also still have to use about 1/4 right rudder trim as well but with these adjustments, it is fairly smooth and stable with less trim (at least as stable as can be expected for a heli this size / price range).

i tried using the gyro from the blade but couldn't get things connected right. the rudder wire from the controller has only one wire instead of three. i tried it on all three prongs of the gyro (with gyro output wire to rudder channel) but did not have any effect. would start to spin rapidly. so removed the gyro and all is well.

gw.

[USNRIS]

gw - sounds like you're getting it dialed in! have you looked on the heli-max site for the axe? they have a pdf file that shows how to install a futaba hh gyro.

jeff

[maltydog]

thanks for the info, i'll check it out.
gw

[VBDave]

Blade CP Pro (not worth starting with the CP basic.. get the pro if you chose this bird)
1. Cheaper replacement parts
2. Better in house supply for most parts at your LHS for the Blade
3. You'll have to most likely upgrade the tail motor with any of the mods available you can find on the web or it will most likely burn out on you.
4. Not nearly as 'Rugged' as the AXE CP.

AXE CP
1. Comes with the same "Upgrades" as the Blade CPPro (motor, blades...)
2. MUCH sturdier design than the Blade CP/CPP
3. Parts supply was very BAD, long waits for re-supply, etc.. but it has actually gotten better.
4. Parts still a littler higher than Blade CP/P parts
5. MUST replace the NiCad with a LiPo and charger if you want decent run times.
6. (Not sure how the Blade's servos are, but MANY AXE owners wind up replacing the stock servos with some HS55's for less jitter and better overall control)
7. COMES WITH the 'Training Gear' that is great help for the complete newbie.


General notes owning the AXE:
It's fairly easy to disassemble and repair, can't comment on the Blade
They fly pretty good for a $200 heli, but you WILL want to upgrade to a LiPo setup if you find that you enjoy flying at all.. Most NiCad packs seems to settle in at around 4~6 minute flight times but people have reported 15~20 on a ThunderPower 1320mA LiPo! (I haven't actually taken the time to time mine as I got a HDX 450 shortly after I switched to LiPo for the AXE and that's taken all my free time.. hehe)

The Tail rotor blades are the EXACT SAME between the Blade and the AXE, so you can replace the AXE's a little cheaper using the Blade's TailRotor.

UPGRADE Components, ie: CNC'd Head, Carbon Fiber Blades, etc.. are WAAAAYYY too costly for the AXE. There's just NO excuse there. Save the money and stock plenty of extra Blade Grips for the AXE and you'll have fun.

Also, check the soldered connections for the main motor before you hook power up to the AXE. Mine and from what I've heard, several other people reported poor soldering or completely disconnected solder joints on the main motor leads. (This also mean DO NOT BELIEVE THEM.. when they say it was flown at the factory before packaging.. BullSh....t!)

I too looked at both before deciding to go with the AXE. I've had PLENTY of problems with my AXE, being a new model and all... but I still personally feel it's a sturdier and little more stable bird to fly. Now that the parts prices and spare parts stock seems to be coming around.. it's not a bad bird for the money.

Keep in mind that ANY *KIT* you assemble, a T-Rex, HDX450, Raptor 30 nitro, whatever... is going to cost you around $1000 to get airborne. I didn't think that was right, but that's about where I'm sitting on my HDX450 now.. lmao

PS: I'd stay away from the Walkera's too.. Sorry if that offends any Walkera owners, but read the forums yourself if you have any questions as to my post. ;)

[USNRIS]

Dave - thanks for the reply/advice. i actually just picked up an axe today... hoping my first venture into helis turns out well!!

jeff

[zen]

Hey Maltydog--

for what it's worth, right aileron is always necessary to maintain a steady hover-in-place. It is normal for the right skid to be lower in a hover.

Since the fuselage wants to spin in the opposite direction from the main blades ('torque reaction'), the tail rotor has to push the tail left to counteract torque. This pushes the heli to the left. When you hover you just add a smidgen of right aileron (right stick to the right) and it stays in one place.