Here is my mcpx brushless conversion with pics ,still video and flight video

[Ampdraw]

Yes and that's why you run the ADH50 that has a 1mm shaft :banana

Where do you suggest we buy one of them?

Only CJ had them from what I was aware and they're now sold out and not going to be restocked. :bawl

I'm running the 1.5mm older version but wouldn't mind the lighter 1mm version if you know where they are avail.

Amp

[dbennettya]

If someone had a donor motor we might be able to see if it is possible to remove the main shaft and turn it down to 1mm on a lathe. It appears that is what was done on the shaft of the one I got from CJ. According to CJ there are a lot of dead C05 motors out there due to the screws being too long and damaging the windings. My motor came with screws that were a little long but ok. I used the stock mCP X screws and they are just right.

Another possibility is to see what the minimum buy size would be for some C05 motors with the 1mm shaft mod. Or maybe we can get them to make it a standard. AeoRC are you listening?

YMMV, Don

[adroc3905]

I have the 1mm shaft BL motor on order from CJ (mentioned in this thread) along with the 7A esc since 6/7/11. As far as I know it was shipped but they do not send you any kind of tracking info so who knows.
I got tired of waiting and decided to go a different route with my BL upgrade as I wanted to fly my mCPx and not dream about what it could become. Helidirect has spoiled me with 2 days shipping.

When it arrives I would happy to sell the motor and esc to someone for the SAME cost I paid for it. You won’t be getting a deal on the price but I can assure you it will not take 3 weeks to deliver either. If anyone is interested just PM me. Otherwise I will just keep it as a backup.

Edit: Sold to dbennettya

[adroc3905]

Ok what’s the trick here? Everything is wired correctly and all I get is a quarter spin on the main blades when I throttle up and then nothing else. I wired the yellow steve converter wire to the board (at the right spot) and the white/red/blk wires on the esc to the white/red/blue wires on the converter.

Not sure what is wrong. Does the esc or tx need to be programmed or set to recognize high and low throttle......like the castle esc's. :thinking

Edit: esc beeps when lipo is plugged-in however every so often the esc will go full throttle and respond to no stick input (high or low) from my tx and then other times the esc does nothing and I get no spin. I wonder if the converter is getting the signal from my tx to the esc.

[dbennettya]

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine) :quotes

YMMV, Don

Ok what’s the trick here? Everything is wired correctly and all I get is a quarter spin on the main blades when I throttle up and then nothing else. I wired the yellow steve converter wire to the board (at the right spot) and the white/red/blk wires on the esc to the white/red/blue wires on the converter.

Not sure what is wrong. Does the esc or tx need to be programmed or set to recognize high and low throttle......like the castle esc's. :thinking

Edit: esc beeps when lipo is plugged-in however every so often the esc will go full throttle and respond to no stick input (high or low) from my tx and then other times the esc does nothing and I get no spin. I wonder if the converter is getting the signal from my tx to the esc.

[Souskei]

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine) :quotes

YMMV, Don

wait wait..

so tnts way isnt right?

could you please point out to right place to solder the yellow wire on the board please? (picture)

[dbennettya]

There is no right or wrong, both connect points should work but if you connect to the + motor output you should add a pull down resistor. Jon's connect point doesn't require the pull down resistor.

http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2948838&postcount=29

Where the pic is labeled main is the proper connection for not having to use a pull down resistor or if your main FETs are toast.

Don

wait wait..

so tnts way isnt right?

could you please point out to right place to solder the yellow wire on the board please? (picture)

[adroc3905]

Sweet..........thanks to the help of my fellow HF members I was able to get the BL conversion up and running.

Without going through all the diagnostics I did today here is the setup I used that works for my mCPx:

I am using the Helimax Novus CP kit with the Steve single converter:

Converter:
Yellow to right side of resistor (not the motor connection)
Red to pos lead on board (not esc leads)
Blue to neg lead on board (not esc leads)
White to esc lead (white wire)

Esc:
Red + Blk battery wires from esc to pos + neg leads on board (backside)

So yes, I have the factory white and blk wires, esc red and blk wires and converter red and blue wires all soldered to my pos and neg pads on the board.

For whatever reason the red and blk wires on my esc were not enough to send a strong steady signal to the converter so I was getting erratic loss of signal and throttle control. Also, be sure to scrape away any factory "clear coat" that may be present on the resister before soldering the yellow wire of the converter to the right side leg. You can see the clear coating as it has a sheen to it in the light and is all over the board were several of the factory solder connections are present. By removing this (I used an x-acto knife and scrapped it gently until I saw shiny metal) you will have a much better solder joint. For those guys that are using a digital solder station….use about 630 degrees.

I hope this helps someone as I was personally seconds away from adding another esc to my cart thinking it was a bad speed controller.

[Souskei]

There is no right or wrong, both connect points should work but if you connect to the + motor output you should add a pull down resistor. Jon's connect point doesn't require the pull down resistor.

http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2948838&postcount=29

Where the pic is labeled main is the proper connection for not having to use a pull down resistor or if your main FETs are toast.

Don

oh man thats one tiny spot to solder! :wow2:

thanks for the links tho!

so you think a pull down would be any easier alternative?

[tntburnett]

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine) :quotes

YMMV, Don

Good looking out :-)

I added a 2.2k ohm resistor 1/4 Watt 5% tolerance to my set up. I solder one end to the yellow wire of the steve converter and the other end to the blue wire of the Steve converter. Here are some pics

Have a blessed week

Sent from my DROIDX

[Souskei]

Good looking out :-)

I added a 2.2k ohm resistor 1/4 Watt 5% tolerance to my set up. I solder one end to the yellow wire of the steve converter and the other end to the blue wire of the Steve converter. Here are some pics

Have a blessed week

Sent from my DROIDX

Thanks TNT!

I think I wanna go this route then try to solder on the main board..

A few question.. Do I go to radio shack a jus ask for a 2.2k ohms resistor 1/4 watt 5% tolerance?

Do I jus pit the resistor in-between the yellow wire an the positive motor plug?
And care to show a diagram with your expert art skill :)

[tntburnett]

Thanks TNT!

I think I wanna go this route then try to solder on the main board..

A few question.. Do I go to radio shack a jus ask for a 2.2k ohms resistor 1/4 watt 5% tolerance?

Do I jus pit the resistor in-between the yellow wire an the positive motor plug?
And care to show a diagram with your expert art skill :)

You are welcome. Go to radio shack and ask for that resistor :-). They are not high they are pretty cheap

Sent from my DROIDX

[tntburnett]

When I come from the lhs I will post a diagram up

Sent from my DROIDX

[tntburnett]

Here is where I put my resistor
You can get these from radio shack

Sent from my DROIDX

[Crashhappy13]

hey tnt i just ordered all the parts for the brushless conversion but the pinion gears are all back ordered does anyone no of another place to get them or a tleast does anyone no the inner diameter

[adroc3905]

Some pics of my mod using TNT's info.......thanks

[adroc3905]

I cut off 8mm from each SR120 tail blade tip so as to create enough space between the tail blades and main blades. The downwash on the mains would have caused issues with the SR120 tail blades had I not done this.

My first flight:

Main blades had power. Flips, rolls, loops and inverted were MUCH easier since you no longer have to baby feather the collective. I heard very little if any bogging and I currently run my pitch travel adj at 85%. You still cannot stick bang but it’s a vast improvement over stock form.

The SR120 tail mod however was disappointing. During pitch pumps it kicked out considerably and I had a piro flip that was only supposed to be a simple flip but the tail decided to spin on me. I am curious to see if the stock tail will do better but I have to think not since it’s a weaker motor with smaller disc area.

I might also mention I was flying is winds that were much stronger than I would attempt in stock form.

[tntburnett]

I cut off 8mm from each SR120 tail blade tip so as to create enough space between the tail blades and main blades. The downwash on the mains would have caused issues with the SR120 tail blades had I not done this.

My first flight:

Main blades had power. Flips, rolls, loops and inverted were MUCH easier since you no longer have to baby feather the collective. I heard very little if any bogging and I currently run my pitch travel adj at 85%. You still cannot stick bang but it’s a vast improvement over stock form.

The SR120 tail mod however was disappointing. During pitch pumps it kicked out considerably and I had a piro flip that was only supposed to be a simple flip but the tail decided to spin on me. I am curious to see if the stock tail will do better but I have to think not since it’s a weaker motor with smaller disc area.

I might also mention I was flying is winds that were much stronger than I would attempt in stock form.

I had try The sr120 shorter tail blade also and the tail kick out on me that's way I went with keeping the tail blade at stock length no blow outs. I am still using the extended tail boom and my main blades and tail blades don't interfere with each other.

Sent from my DROIDX

[Crashhappy13]

whats the length of your boom

[Crashhappy13]

tnt so how long is your boom cause im trying to put the 120sr tail motor on it and i dont need the main blades interfering

[adroc3905]

The problem with using the SR120 tail mod and the extended boom together is that the CG is way off and with a FBL heli that creates issues during piros and inverted hovers. You would literally have to tape the lipo on the nose of the heli to even out the weight distribution if using a SR120 tail mod on an extended boom. I have the esc and the Hyperion 240's mounted in the front and the with the stock boom length the CG is perfect. If I extend my boom out by 2cm (mod length) I would have to add dead weight to the canopy to re-balance the CG of the heli. I may try going back to a stock tail setup and see if that is any better, the same or worse.....then toy with the ideal of a BL tail.

After all this $$ invested in the mCPx…………it would have been cheaper to go with a stock Walkera FBL BL heli with TT or belt tail. Oh well, live and learn.

[fretman]

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine) :quotes

YMMV, Don

What does that mean in layman terms? Will we end up frying something without the resistor place? I just did the bl mod and am connecting the yellow wire to the + of the main. And so far things are working great! Couldn't be happier with my mcpx now, even more reason to not wan to fry anything now. But I do hate to solder and rather avoid if not absolutely necessary.

[Goatkeeper]

The problem with using the SR120 tail mod and the extended boom together is that the CG is way off and with a FBL heli that creates issues during piros and inverted hovers. You would literally have to tape the lipo on the nose of the heli to even out the weight distribution if using a SR120 tail mod on an extended boom. I have the esc and the Hyperion 240's mounted in the front and the with the stock boom length the CG is perfect. If I extend my boom out by 2cm (mod length) I would have to add dead weight to the canopy to re-balance the CG of the heli. I may try going back to a stock tail setup and see if that is any better, the same or worse.....then toy with the ideal of a BL tail.

After all this $$ invested in the mCPx…………it would have been cheaper to go with a stock Walkera FBL BL heli with TT or belt tail. Oh well, live and learn.

I held tnt's mcpx today and the cg is only slightly off, with the esc in the front to help add a little weight. But I promise you, if you saw it fly you would see that the cg imbalance made no difference in flight. The tail was absolutely glued in place. I can't wait to do this mod.

[dbennettya]

No you won't damage anything, but you may get better more linear throttle response with the pull down resistor. Maybe Tnt can weigh in and tell us if he noticed a difference with or without the pull down resistor.

Good Luck, Don

What does that mean in layman terms? Will we end up frying something without the resistor place? I just did the bl mod and am connecting the yellow wire to the + of the main. And so far things are working great! Couldn't be happier with my mcpx now, even more reason to not wan to fry anything now. But I do hate to solder and rather avoid if not absolutely necessary.

[dbennettya]

With my BL mCP X and the 300mah Turnigy 35C batteries mine is quite nose heavy. So the SR 120 tail mod may make a perfect combo :dontknow I'll find out when I do the mod and post it. I'm hoping that the tail will hold like it's on rails :YeaBaby:

Good Luck, Don

I held tnt's mcpx today and the cg is only slightly off, with the esc in the front to help add a little weight. But I promise you, if you saw it fly you would see that the cg imbalance made no difference in flight. The tail was absolutely glued in place. I can't wait to do this mod.