Here is my mcpx brushless conversion with pics ,still video and flight video

[jim_stoll]

My helimax motor and esc will be arriving from Tower in a day or two - just got shipment notice on The Steve today, so I'm guessing that'll be another week or so. The helimax motor seems to come w/ a pinion pre-installed - no idea how many teeth, but it looks to be a good bit more than 9 from the picture on the Tower site. I've got the 9T pinion in-hand already. What's the best approach to removing the original pinion from the motor and getting the new pinion on, all ideally w/o damaging the motor or the pinion??

[WowHobbies]

I am glad to hear you guys are working on it.Please keep us posted. I am wanting to convert at least three more.I am just waiting for the right motor solution..

That 11,000kv motor is not right for the 8T. We are working on getting the new motors. I have got 2 samples coming in later this week.

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com (http://www.WowHobbies.com)

[WowHobbies]

Man I need one of those converter for the next one I am planning on doing. And I am thinking of doing a outrunner version now. Have one in runner and one outrunner
Have a blessed week.

Sent from my DROIDX

I had an inrunner prototype done. It flew but kind of heavy. We are hoping to release an ESC/converter combo integrated to reduce soldering and wire breakage. Last year, I have converted more than 20 helicopters with TheSteve and I had wire breakage problem constantly hunting me down. To keep weight down, TheSteve converter wires are so tiny and they break off even after I glue them down.

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com (http://www.WowHobbies.com)

[tntburnett]

My helimax motor and esc will be arriving from Tower in a day or two - just got shipment notice on The Steve today, so I'm guessing that'll be another week or so. The helimax motor seems to come w/ a pinion pre-installed - no idea how many teeth, but it looks to be a good bit more than 9 from the picture on the Tower site. I've got the 9T pinion in-hand already. What's the best approach to removing the original pinion from the motor and getting the new pinion on, all ideally w/o damaging the motor or the pinion??

The pinion that comes with it is a 12t I think its the wrong pitch and way to much head speed. To remove the pinion u will need a pinion puller to put on the new pinion place it on the counter top (facing up) line up the motor shaft with the whole and press down on the motor until you hear the shaft hit the counter top. Once you hear that no need to go any farther. As long as you see the motor shaft at the end of the pinion that far enough.

Have a blessed week.

Isaac

Sent from my DROIDX

[adroc3905]

My helimax motor and esc will be arriving from Tower in a day or two - just got shipment notice on The Steve today, so I'm guessing that'll be another week or so. The helimax motor seems to come w/ a pinion pre-installed - no idea how many teeth, but it looks to be a good bit more than 9 from the picture on the Tower site. I've got the 9T pinion in-hand already. What's the best approach to removing the original pinion from the motor and getting the new pinion on, all ideally w/o damaging the motor or the pinion??

Pinion puller that does 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm shafts:

http://cgi.ebay.com/GWS-Pinion-Gear-Pull-/180447609515?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a038402ab

I find that using a benchtop vise works best for installing the pinion on the shaft, simply and easy compression. Make sure you press it on straight.

[adroc3905]

I am awaitng delivery on a new HP05s outrunner to see how it compares to the Helimax inrunner.....both on 9t.

[Ampdraw]

That 11,000kv motor is not right for the 8T. We are working on getting the new motors. I have got 2 samples coming in later this week.

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com (http://www.WowHobbies.com)

Are you going to quantify the difference when you decide which you will stock?

With an 8T pinion... less Kv will yield less headspeed and with the 8T we are currently just a bit above stock (4600rpm or so). With higher Kv the motor will have less torque. To me it seems 11000Kv is about spot on for 8T on the ADH50 (C05) motor.

Hope to see the numbers.

Amp

[Goatkeeper]

My helimax motor and esc will be arriving from Tower in a day or two - just got shipment notice on The Steve today, so I'm guessing that'll be another week or so. The helimax motor seems to come w/ a pinion pre-installed - no idea how many teeth, but it looks to be a good bit more than 9 from the picture on the Tower site. I've got the 9T pinion in-hand already. What's the best approach to removing the original pinion from the motor and getting the new pinion on, all ideally w/o damaging the motor or the pinion??

Yes, you need to remove the pinion that comes on the bl motor and put your 9t on. Ask your LHS if they have a pinion puller you can use. They pressed on very tight. And small motor shafts can be bent somewhat easily if you are not careful.

[755 robert]

Are you going to quantify the difference when you decide which you will stock?

With an 8T pinion... less Kv will yield less headspeed and with the 8T we are currently just a bit above stock (4600rpm or so). With higher Kv the motor will have less torque. To me it seems 11000Kv is about spot on for 8T on the ADH50 (C05) motor.

Hope to see the numbers.

Amp
This motor pinion that we are using(ADH50 8t) sure seems like a good match to me.I have better than stock power,better than stock battery life and everything comes down cool..and the stock tail motor with extended boom holds very well.

[jim_stoll]

yeah, my big concerns are, in increasing order of worry:

1. Mangling the original pinion getting it off (not a big deal, as I have no use for it, but a friend might)

2. Mangling the new pinion putting it on (I bought 2, to allow for goofing on the first one if it happens)

3. Damaging the motor shaft (such as bending it)

4. Damaging the motor (such as pushing too hard on the pinion/shaft and damaging something on the rear end of the motor - if the shaft protrudes all the way through the motor, this is unlikely to be damaged by the desktop vice approach, but if it has a sealed/covered rear end, this concerns me, as does pushing hard even against something like a tabletop or counter.

I'm not historically an electrics guy (not entirely true - I have 450's, but the motors all came w/ the appropriate pinion on them, and/or they had set screws on the pinion), thus my nervousness on this operation. :-)

[Nytflyer]

I have had good success by prying the pinion off with a screwdriver. Once you get it started you may have to stick something under the screwdriver to get leverage. I use needle nose or pliers. Still must be very careful not to damage the shaft. I have changed prolly 20 pinions over the past couple years this way and have only bent a motor shaft one time.

Good luck and have fun!

[dbennettya]

Jonathan,

I got the Steve converter with the ESC header on it and the wire for the signal broke early on because they used wire wrap wire (solid) instead of stranded. I removed the ESC header and used my own stranded wire.

I had an inrunner prototype done. It flew but kind of heavy. We are hoping to release an ESC/converter combo integrated to reduce soldering and wire breakage. Last year, I have converted more than 20 helicopters with TheSteve and I had wire breakage problem constantly hunting me down. To keep weight down, TheSteve converter wires are so tiny and they break off even after I glue them down.

Don

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com (http://www.WowHobbies.com)

Tnt,

You really need to support the back of the shaft on that motor when pushing the pinion on or one could damage the internals of the motor. I used a old 1x3x1 bearing to support the rear of the shaft when pressing on pinions.

Don

The pinion that comes with it is a 12t I think its the wrong pitch and way to much head speed. To remove the pinion u will need a pinion puller to put on the new pinion place it on the counter top (facing up) line up the motor shaft with the whole and press down on the motor until you hear the shaft hit the counter top. Once you hear that no need to go any farther. As long as you see the motor shaft at the end of the pinion that far enough.

Have a blessed week.

Isaac

Sent from my DROIDX

adroc3905,

With 9T pinion your going to have some crazy headspeed ~ 5676 RPM :wow2:
8T ~ 5000 RPM need 1mm shaft
7T ~ 4400 RPM need 1mm shaft

Good Luck, Don

I am awaitng delivery on a new HP05s outrunner to see how it compares to the Helimax inrunner.....both on 9t.

[adroc3905]

yeah, my big concerns are, in increasing order of worry:

1. Mangling the original pinion getting it off (not a big deal, as I have no use for it, but a friend might)

2. Mangling the new pinion putting it on (I bought 2, to allow for goofing on the first one if it happens)

3. Damaging the motor shaft (such as bending it)

4. Damaging the motor (such as pushing too hard on the pinion/shaft and damaging something on the rear end of the motor - if the shaft protrudes all the way through the motor, this is unlikely to be damaged by the desktop vice approach, but if it has a sealed/covered rear end, this concerns me, as does pushing hard even against something like a tabletop or counter.

I'm not historically an electrics guy (not entirely true - I have 450's, but the motors all came w/ the appropriate pinion on them, and/or they had set screws on the pinion), thus my nervousness on this operation. :-)

You will most likely leave an impression on a table or countertop as it requires a fair amount of force to seat the pinion. I addition to that you may have an unhappy wife from ruining her furniture.

As far as using a vise, you should never press a pinion on by pushing solely on the back of the motor can. This can damage the shaft and/or internal motor bearings, windings, magnets, etc. When pressing a pinion on you should be applying force to the backside on the motor shaft only. I have yet to find a BL motor that does not have the shaft exposed on both ends (in other words no end cap).This is why I prefer a vise, as pressing against a 1.5mm shaft (with the needed force) is a bit tricky to do by hand. I place wood on both sides of my vise so as not to damage the soft brass pinion.

Removing the pinion with a screw driver or pliers, although at times effective, can also damage the motor and/or shaft. Think about it, you are essentially prying the pinion off using the top of the motor can as leverage and putting a great deal of lateral stress on the shaft. A pinion puller applies force directly on the shaft end while pulling on the pinion only. Cheap investment IMO.

[adroc3905]

adroc3905,

With 9T pinion your going to have some crazy headspeed ~ 5676 RPM :wow2:
8T ~ 5000 RPM need 1mm shaft
7T ~ 4400 RPM need 1mm shaft

Good Luck, Don

Got the idea from here. The OP seems to be having great success with the 9T and HP05s motor. He also does a great comparison on the other BL motors being used by many. Check it out. He runs close to 6K rpm at the moment with a dual motor tail conversion.

I will not be using 100% throttle and pitch.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=320503

[dbennettya]

I think best performance and flight times will come with the proper gearing instead of reducing the throttle curve. So I'm going with modifying the shaft to 1mm and trying an 8T pinion first and maybe even 7T as I don't think super high RPMs are the answer.

YMMV, Don

Got the idea from here. The OP seems to be having great success with the 9T and HP05s motor. He also does a great comparison on the other BL motors being used by many. Check it out. He runs close to 6K rpm at the moment with a dual motor tail conversion.

I will not be using 100% throttle and pitch.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=320503

[Nytflyer]

Got the idea from here. The OP seems to be having great success with the 9T and HP05s motor. He also does a great comparison on the other BL motors being used by many. Check it out. He runs close to 6K rpm at the moment with a dual motor tail conversion.

I will not be using 100% throttle and pitch.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=320503

Yes I would agree that a pinion puller would be the safest way to remove the pinion without damage to the motor. Just wanted to share my experiences in case someone has no way to get a puller. I am definitely not saying prying with a screwdriver is the safest method but if done properly one can be very successful as I have changed many pinions this way with no ill effect.

I never even realized until just recently that they made pullers this small. Saw one on clubheli site a few months back.

[adroc3905]

I think best performance and flight times will come with the proper gearing instead of reducing the throttle curve. So I'm going with modifying the shaft to 1mm and trying an 8T pinion first and maybe even 7T as I don't think super high RPMs are the answer.

YMMV, Don

Maybe so but seems like a lot of work resizing a shaft for a possible minimal performance increase. Better off running more efficient batteries and shaving grossweight if you are worried about flight times.

[tntburnett]

Jonathan,

I got the Steve converter with the ESC header on it and the wire for the signal broke early on because they used wire wrap wire (solid) instead of stranded. I removed the ESC header and used my own stranded wire.



Tnt,

You really need to support the back of the shaft on that motor when pushing the pinion on or one could damage the internals of the motor. I used a old 1x3x1 bearing to support the rear of the shaft when pressing on pinions.

Don



adroc3905,

With 9T pinion your going to have some crazy headspeed ~ 5676 RPM :wow2:
8T ~ 5000 RPM need 1mm shaft
7T ~ 4400 RPM need 1mm shaft

Good Luck, Don

Thanks for the info on the pinion ;-). Have a blessed week

Isaac


Sent from my DROIDX

[Lipper]

I have one of these - works great:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/silver-walkera-gear-puller-for-most-r-c-motor-15147

[dna001]

Has any one tired one of these ?

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/xtreme_products_brushed_brushless_signal_converter _ea-048-p-11065.html

[WowHobbies]

yeah, my big concerns are, in increasing order of worry:

1. Mangling the original pinion getting it off (not a big deal, as I have no use for it, but a friend might)

2. Mangling the new pinion putting it on (I bought 2, to allow for goofing on the first one if it happens)

3. Damaging the motor shaft (such as bending it)

4. Damaging the motor (such as pushing too hard on the pinion/shaft and damaging something on the rear end of the motor - if the shaft protrudes all the way through the motor, this is unlikely to be damaged by the desktop vice approach, but if it has a sealed/covered rear end, this concerns me, as does pushing hard even against something like a tabletop or counter.

I'm not historically an electrics guy (not entirely true - I have 450's, but the motors all came w/ the appropriate pinion on them, and/or they had set screws on the pinion), thus my nervousness on this operation. :-)

We have many customers sharing the same concern as you. It does look like we are going to install the pinion for customers when the motors arrive. We use a special jig to center and press on the pinion.

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com (http://www.WowHobbies.com)

[dbennettya]

Sounds like it could work but may need a negative going signal which you could pickup at the collector of the NPN transistor on the main board that drives the output FET gate.

No guarantees, Don

Has any one tired one of these ?

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/xtreme_products_brushed_brushless_signal_converter _ea-048-p-11065.html

[Ampdraw]

Has any one tired one of these ?

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/xtreme_products_brushed_brushless_signal_converter _ea-048-p-11065.html

Have a look at this thread...http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=299653

Amp

[adroc3905]

TNT, may I make a suggestion concerning your thread here:

Seems to me many people are following this thread and using it to convert their own mCPx’s to BL which is great and we all appreciate your info. The problem is it also seems that many people are not reading the entire thread and missing some important troubleshooting suggestions for when the conversion does not work properly.

My suggestion would be to edit the first post where you show how to wire the converter and ESC by showing TWO ways that work.

1. Wiring the converter red/blue to the esc red/black and/or
2. Wiring the converter red/blue to the pos + neg board terminals.

Also, stating the symptoms of why the alternative is an option such as intermittent throttle, beep only, full throttle only, no tx input to throttle response, etc may help people self-diagnose the problem.

[tntburnett]

TNT, may I make a suggestion concerning your thread here:

Seems to me many people are following this thread and using it to convert their own mCPx’s to BL which is great and we all appreciate your info. The problem is it also seems that many people are not reading the entire thread and missing some important troubleshooting suggestions for when the conversion does not work properly.

My suggestion would be to edit the first post where you show how to wire the converter and ESC by showing TWO ways that work.

1. Wiring the converter red/blue to the esc red/black and/or
2. Wiring the converter red/blue to the pos + neg board terminals.

Also, stating the symptoms of why the alternative is an option such as intermittent throttle, beep only, full throttle only, no tx input to throttle response, etc may help people self-diagnose the problem.

Ok will do. That is a Good idea