Main shaft straightening tool

[z_man_95]

I saw one on ebay and now can't find it. I was thinking that you could just use a drill press and a block of metal, drill the same size hole as the main shaft, and use that as a straightener.
Thoughts?

[Rhumba555]

In order for that to work, the block would have to have a hole that is curved to bend the shaft past straight so it springs back and becomes straight. Differing degrees of bentness requires differing curved holes and so forth...kind of a hassle. I'm a machinist so I use a v-block with a dial indicator(.0001 resolution) to indicate the shaft, bend, indicate...so on until I get zero runout. It really is the most accurate way to do it short of mounting it on centers and indicating it.

You can get cheap v-blocks and indicators from Airgas Industrial or Enco. Don't forget to get a base that holds the indicator.

[y2kgtp]

I think I would just buy more outer shafts :mrgreen:


If Dynam Vortex parts really fit the Blade CX2, I might try them out.....especially if they
are what bladecx2.com is repackaging as their own, and selling at a higher cost. :roll:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A1972394&pid=NDYN204

[BarracudaHockey]

Drill a hole in a block of wood a bit bigger than the shaft.

Chuck the shaft up in a drill and spin the shaft in the hole putting some sideways pressure on the top of the hole at or near the bend.
Roll it on a piece of glass and listen.

No fancy tools needed. :D

[pmbou]

I have been using a lathe to straighten my own stock maingear shafts and it works as good as new.

It's easy and takes only a few minutes. Take your lathe and put something (anything) in the toolpost, as an indicator for reference.
I chuck up the shaft in my lathe with about 1" of the shaft exposed on the gear end. Put the indicator near the gear face and turn the lathe on slowly (60 rpm or by hand). Run the indicator into the gear until it just touches. Now bend the shaft in the direction where it's touching the indicator, by hand, until it runs true. Then move the shaft out and chuck it just above where it would be touching the upper bearing when installed, and repeat the bending process, then chuck again below the pin, then again on the tip. With these 4 points in a line, that sucker spins sweet.

With a dial indicator on a good adjustable mount, this might work on a drill press too.

[smw]

There was a pretty good thread on this subject in the Trex forum.

http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=33111

[pmbou]

I'm impressed with how many good threads are around like this and especially that the HF search engine actually works so good!

One thing I almost forgot to mention is that there is a shaft that runs through the blade grips that tends to bend a little less frequently than the main gear shaft, it's called the spindle.

Once this gets bent, it is impossible to balance the rotor because this spindle will spin around and change the balancing on the fly. I have also taken this out and straightened it, just like the main shaft I describe above, but this time I tap it gently with a wood block and hammer, since it's so short it's too difficult to bend by hand. It's magnetic and soft so I guess it'm guessing it's mild steel. These sell alone for $4.99 from a local hobbytown, eflite part# eflh1143. Or they come included in some part sets. I would love to buy a bulk pack of hardened steel spindles though, if anyone knows where...

[livesounder]

I bought a SS one from my LHS that was the same except just a tick longer. Had to use some extra washers at each end. It's held up well to my abuse. Don't know what model it's actually for, but with a known diameter and length and knowledgeable clerk, you can probably get what you need.

[slikrx]

I'm impressed with how many good threads are around like this and especially that the HF search engine actually works so good!

One thing I almost forgot to mention is that there is a shaft that runs through the blade grips that tends to bend a little less frequently than the main gear shaft, it's called the spindle.

Once this gets bent, it is impossible to balance the rotor because this spindle will spin around and change the balancing on the fly. I have also taken this out and straightened it, just like the main shaft I describe above, but this time I tap it gently with a wood block and hammer, since it's so short it's too difficult to bend by hand. It's magnetic and soft so I guess it'm guessing it's mild steel. These sell alone for $4.99 from a local hobbytown, eflite part# eflh1143. Or they come included in some part sets. I would love to buy a bulk pack of hardened steel spindles though, if anyone knows where...

I got a bag of 3 from Helidirect.com for roughly $6.

The only "bad" thing about helidirect, is that many of the parts CPP flyers want are listed under the Esky Honeybee CP2 (almost identical helis) and pretty much everything is interchangeable. Also the HDX 300 is similar.

Here's the part: http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=38_66&products_id=2022

Crap, they're out of stock... :(

[Buzzkill]

great find on the spindles!!