YGE 120HV

[snemi00]

English documentation and good info is on the Elektrorc website.
Basically, I think you got it right. Plug in the short programming cable into the left hand port of the progcard. Unplug the esc from the receiver and plug the extension cable from the receiver to the right port of the progcard.
If you apply power to the esc, and then apply power to the receiver the progcard will read the settings from the esc automatically. If you power the receiver first and then power the esc, you will have to press the bottom right corner button to read the esc settings.

I have been using 8PWM, 18deg timing, heli slow startup, 4% startup power.
I have used the gov store mode as well as just plain throttle curves with endpoints and both work well.
Make sure when you are using the progcard to set the parameters to press the bottom right corner "enter" button for each setting and listen for the beep that confirms it is set.

I actually found this progcard method really easy to use once I did it the first time.

[Mystic3D]

I just flew my 700v2 with a yge 120HV esc today and after about 20 seconds of hovering the ESC just cut the power.When I tried to connect the programcard to check my settings the card doesn't show the settings that I've programmed. Am I doing something wrong here? I have connected the short lead from the esc to the programcard and the other lead from the card to the receiver. I then power up the esc first and then the receiver and the programcard should show the settings programmed.
Any ideas??
If anyone could give me the settings you use for a 700mx that would be great..

Did you remember to press the "Enter" key after selecting the option? I missed this one the first time I did it. Unlike the Jive Program card where you just select and do not have an enter key to press.

[TrondH]

I finally was able to load the settings to the programcard. What I had to do was to use a 4,8v battery to power the progcard instead of the cable from the card to the receiver. I have no idea why I had to do it this way.... Anyway I still dont know why this ESC shuts down?? I think I have read something about the Kontronik Jives doing the same thing?? I sent an email to electrorc so I hope someone there can help me..

[snemi00]

Maybe you've programmed something wrong or have an issue with the motor itself.
The nice thing about the YGE is that when it shuts down it will beep a number of times to tell you the reason. You have to listen for the beeps and then lookup the error code. It may have been overheating, but that is very odd to happen if you say it was only 30 seconds of hovering. Is your drivetrain free?
It's better than catching on fire...

[Mystic3D]

I think I have read something about the Kontronik Jives doing the same thing?? I sent an email to electrorc so I hope someone there can help me..

Correct the Jive will shut itself down if there is a problem with motor, wiring, connectors. The YGE has the same protection circuitry and will slow down if there is
a problem. But in both cases Jive and YGE there are error codes that tell you what is wrong.

Do you have it set to same settings as Semi?

[WBFAir]

Correct the Jive will shut itself down if there is a problem with motor, wiring, connectors. The YGE has the same protection circuitry and will slow down if there is
a problem. But in both cases Jive and YGE there are error codes that tell you what is wrong.

Do you have it set to same settings as Semi?Hey guy, one question I had on this ESC is, does it have the auto rotation thing bail out like the Castle and Heli Jive does.

By this I mean the thing where if you use your throttle hold to kill the motor power to the helo, and then restore it, you pretty much get full power back right away instead of having to go through the whole slow spool up thing?

Reason I ask it that as some might know, the reg Jive does not have this (AFAIK) but the new Heli one does, but now that has had issues with the V-bar, so it was pulled with not much word (although it has only been days and IRCHA) on when this will be fixed.

So if this turns into a multi-month fight between V-Bar and Jive, and as I really need that feature, I may have to look else where for a ESC that has this.

Thanks for any help.

[Mystic3D]

The VBar has auto bailout, so "maybe" the ESC does not need to have it. Like YGE or HW neither have it built in but should work.
I don't use auto bailout so not sure .


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- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TrondH]

I had the PWM set at 12khz.. Do you think this is what made it shut down? I emailed Pete at elektrorc and he told me to try 8khz but I havnt tested it yet. I broke one of the ball links on the last flight so im waiting for parts.

[MatsSweden]

FWIW, I just sent an e-mail to freakware, asking about the correct setting for the 700MX 510KV motor.
YGE does not have an e-mail addy, but redirects you to the suppliers.
It's to be considered a "test" before I'll order a YGE.

personally I've had it with the US-BBQ company, and for that matter the K-one too.

Just sent it, and will post back when (if) they reply.

/M

[snemi00]

I contacted YGE about the settings for the 700mx a month or so ago when I was setting up. The response from Mr. Jung, the owner, is below. I'm not sure how 700mx specific it actually is though, it all looks pretty default.
I'm running it like this except for the governor. I'm just using a flat 90 curve for now as I continue setting up flybarless parameters. Just got rid of the 3GX and put the trusty Microbeast on. I did try the gov and liked it, but want to work on the tail settings first and then introduce the gov again so I know the effect it's having.
The motor is coming down about 140degF (60C) ambient air temp is about 85 or so and humid. Esc is warm to the touch, but not even as warm as the batteries get.

Hello,

in the following find your parameters:

* Timing = 18°
* Brake = off
* act.-Freew. = on / Gov. oder Gov.-Store = on
* P-Gain = 0,9
* I-Gain = 0,05
* Startup Speed = Heli Slow
* PWM-Frquency = 8 kHz
* Start power = 2 or 4%


Teach in the rpm with 100% speed without blades. The battery should be
about 4V per cell.

Wait until the maximum speed is reached. You can see that in the short
speed drop. Then the motor drive to stop, wait until the motor stops and
pull the battery pack...finish.

If change your setup, repeat the process.

[TrondH]

I tried the same settings but the ecs still shuts down:arggg:

[snemi00]

If the esc is shutting down after only 30sec then there is something seriously wrong.
Can you spin the head and blades up by hand easily? Maybe something is binding?
Could be a bad motor, or the esc could be defective.
Best would be if you could try another motor.
Did you listen for the beep sounds from the esc when it shuts down? That is what we need to understand.

[TrondH]

The problem is that Im not getting any beeps when it shuts down so I guess its probably the esc.There doesnt seem to be any binding, everything runs really smooth until it shuts down. I've sent an email to Freakware where I bought the esc so im waiting for their reply.

[MatsSweden]

The problem is that Im not getting any beeps when it shuts down so I guess its probably the esc.There doesnt seem to be any binding, everything runs really smooth until it shuts down. I've sent an email to Freakware where I bought the esc so im waiting for their reply.


As I previously posted, I've sent them (freakware) an email. No reply yet tho :/
(does not look promising as far as support goes.....)

[snemi00]

If there are no beeps when it shuts down, you could have the battery programming wrong and it could be just cutting off based on voltage drop.
Make sure with the progcard that you have it set for LiPo mode and then set your cutoff voltage, I use 3.3V
Also, set your cell count to 12
This is the safer way of setting voltage cutoff instead of the auto mode that counts the cells when you plug in. Just in case you plug in a partially charged pack it will still be set for 12s and not do the counting based on voltage.
What batteries are you using?

As far as support is concerned, Freakware is just an online vendor, and I have never dealt with them. I wouldn't base my impressions of a company upon the interaction with one of their vendors. Just call YGE directly and you can speak with the owner of the company. He actually answers the phone most times, it's amazing and he is incredibly intelligent and polite.
His English was very good, although obviously they are a German company, and I had no difficulty in communication.
I chose to call YGE directly only because I did not buy my controller from ElektroRC in the USA as they were out of stock at the time. I'm pretty sure they would offer help, but I don't like to impose on a vendor for support if I didn't at least buy the product from them.

[Sirolf]

Question about programming the YGE..

Do you have to unplug the throttle lead to the receiver when you use progcard?

How is programming actually done, hook-up wise i mean? Not very clear in the users-manual..

[snemi00]

Yes, you must unplug the throttle lead to the receiver and use the provided extension cable to go from the receiver to the right port on the card. The short cable from the esc goes to the left port of the card.

http://elektrorc.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5

[Sirolf]

Thanks...

[TrondH]

I have it set for Lipo mode, cut off voltage 3,2v and 12s.
The batteries I have used for testing are Voltz 45c 5100mah and Pulz 45c 5100mah.

This is the answer i got from Freakware:
Dear Sir,

-You have to ground the Tail boom

- to ground the programmable input

What does he mean by this?? I have heard about grounding the boom because of problems with static discharge on helis with belt drive but not on torque tube helis?

[snemi00]

Hmmm....
I have a feeling they are assuming it is a belt driven tail. I guess the Germans just assume everybody is running a Mikado :lol:
I don't think that's the problem. It could be losing the signal and going to failsafe position???
Why don't you turn off gov mode and just try a flat 60 or 70 throttle curve and just spool it up on the ground without lifting off and see if it cuts out.

[pwkpete]

Hi guys,

snemi00 steered me to this thread. I'm Pete @ ElektroRC.

I have been emailing with TrondH - trying to help him with his issue.

Any static buildup, noise or interference in the system can cause what he is seeing - it could be the ESC being reset. Do the BEC power input lines have ferrite rings on them?

"- to ground the programmable input"

This means make a servo connector adapter that takes the signal lead and ties it to the ground and then insert that connector into the programming cable. A "U" connector...

I have seen this with one other customer and this fixed his problem, but it doesn't get to the underlying problem - there is some noise that is wreaking havoc on the system.

I'll stay subscribed to this thread and assist as I can, sometimes it's hard to follow all the different threads but I'll do my best. Always feel free to email me if I didn't get to something soon enough or for other threads that you think I can help with.

Take care,
-P

[TrondH]

Hi Pete

No, the bec input lines does not have ferrite rings on them..
It didnt help to ground the programmable input...

[pwkpete]

If grounding the programming input, it's probably not a static issue.

I definitely recommend ferrite rings on the power input(s) to the RX electronics to filter interference.

Lots of questions to go through - here is what I would start looking at:
Does it fail with ferrite rings on BEC output?
Is the RX browning out?
Does it fail on the bench without blades, etc?
New motor? (Have another motor to test?)
Disconnect servos/gyro (on bench of course without blades) and run it up, still a problem? (bad servo causing noise on the line)

There are just too many unknowns right now and not enough information... Especially difficult to diagnose without it here.

You need to troubleshoot the system - deal with 1 variable at a time.

At this point I feel safe looking at other components rather than the ESC. The ESC is just showing that there is a problem, but not able to point you to it. I am not saying 100% it isn't the ESC, but I would be surprised if it were given what I have been told here....

Hope that helps you diagnose your problem... I would definitely not fly it until you know the exact cause - even if some sudden change makes it work and you cannot reproduce it...

-P

[TrondH]

I will try to troubleshoot the system this weekend.. Just to busy at work right now..
Thanks for all your help and I will get back to you when I start working on it again.

[joe1l]

If you are getting a cuttoff after 30seconds of spool up then i'm guessing it is a bad solder on one of the bullets...either ESC or motor side. I've had the same issue many times. Also the WR Super BEC is very noisy and can easily interfere with your signal. I've installed Ferrite rings on my BEC's out put cables. I'm not sure why WR does not sell their BEC with ferrite rings on them...even CC does this.