Blade CP - The GOOD setup - Your mileage may vary

[rstacy]

We have been pretty successful at getting our Blade CP to give decent 3D performance. In fact it is one of Kyle's favorite helicopters to fly. I am asked daily what mods we did to achieve this performance.
Here it is
Let me know if this helps or if you have any questions. - Ray

http://www.raymondstacy.com/bcpp/bcpp1.jpg
http://www.raymondstacy.com/bcpp/bcpp2.jpg
http://www.raymondstacy.com/bcpp/bcpp3.jpg
http://www.raymondstacy.com/bcpp/bcpp4.jpg

Here it is in action
This flight shows the trnsmitter stick movements

http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/kylecpinset.wmv

http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/bladecppro31107.wmv

[DebianDog]

Cool! :smokin:

Where can you buy all these upgrades?

[rstacy]

Everything except the paddles and fly bar came from Horizon Hobby.
The paddles came from Modefo's and the flybar stock came from the LHS.

[Skiddz]

Which GWS motor are you running on the tail??

[rstacy]

The GWS EDP-50XC/CN12-RXC motor and EP-4530 prop with adapter is a good DD combo.

GinoCP who has experimented with different tail options more than I have has this to say about the DD tail

I had gone back to dual motor recently just to compare. The DD tail is really better than the dual motor. It runs solid in fast backward flights and does funnels better. Of course flying reverse with a stock or dual motor tail can be done, but with effort.

[slikrx]

Awesome post!

Thanks!

Did you need to use the tail motor controller to eliminate motor burnout? I'm trying the DD setup from bladecprepair.com and I just burned out my first motor. (after ~20 minutes use)

Maybe sticky this?

[rstacy]

Awesome post!

Thanks!

Did you need to use the tail motor controller to eliminate motor burnout? I'm trying the DD setup from bladecprepair.com and I just burned out my first motor. (after ~20 minutes use)

Maybe sticky this?

I need this because we removed the stock receiver and installed our own. eventually the motor will still burn out but it should last longer than 20 minutes. They wont take any stalling. If the heli falls over and stalls the motor, you can almost count on a failure in the near future.
We have only had one fail and it showed itself in the form of starting to drift.

[chopperdudes]

i might have missed it, what main esc r u running? eflight 20A?
also, r u running the 4100kv motor or the 3600? i'm guessing 4100?

[wick246]

Thanks for the post Ray... I'm impressed with Kyle's ability and even more impressed with your support of him. Is flying your hobby as well?

[jorgy23]

From the looks of it, you are using the stock tail for the CP and just attaching the rotor directly to the motor.

Actually making the rotor not as far out on the tail, Correct????

[chopperdudes]

oh, and ray,
i've heard that john adam's or somebody has reversed the blade grips so that the leading edge is the control side and he said that collective was smoother. have you given that a try?

[rstacy]

r u running the 4100kv motor or the 3600? i'm guessing 4100?
Eflite 20A controller and 4100 motor

Is flying your hobby as well?
Yes it. I have been flying one thing or another for 40 years.

From the looks of it, you are using the stock tail for the CP and just attaching the rotor directly to the motor.
Actually making the rotor not as far out on the tail, Correct????
Not exactly. We run the GWS EDP 50XC motor.

i've heard that john adam's or somebody has reversed the blade grips so that the leading edge is the control side and he said that collective was smoother. have you given that a try?
John Adams wrote in one of the latest heli mags. I have not tried it yet.

[Funky]

Are you running the G90 in digital or standard servo mode?

[jorgy23]

Can you give a little more detail on how you installed the bearing where the O-rings used to be???

Jeff

[rstacy]

Are you running the G90 in digital or standard servo mode?

Digital mode

Can you give a little more detail on how you installed the bearing where the O-rings used to be???

This mod is nice for extreme 3D response. It works best with high head speed and wood blades. You could get a wobble at lower head speeds.
Remove the existing o-rings and press in a bearing. Make sure the bearing is seated. Do this to both sides. Reassemble everything and see if you have any in/out play on the grips. If you do have play, take the grips back off and install a spacer on each side between the bearing and grip. I think we ended up with one spacer on each side.

[DannyCrane]

What prop adapter did you use. I searched horizon for it but could not find anything that looked like it would work.

[futura]

Look for the GWS DD tail set, the addaptor comes with it. or this one or such like it...

I can't vouch for the online dealer but I here lots of people buying from them with limited issues.

http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=192

[WhirlingBladesOfDeath]

My 3-in-1 pooped out on me yesterday. I had already converted the receiver to an AR6100, so the failed 3-in-1's only real job was as speed controller for the tail motor. Rather than paying $45 something for a new one, I just picked up a little GWS speed controller to replace it with. I wired everything up, and actually much to my surprise, it worked just fine!

My only problem is once the tail motor ESC arms (it appears I have to give full left rudder to show the ESC 0 input before arming) my G90 starts trying to move the tail gradually more and more to the left. If I just let the heli sit there at 0 throttle, the tail will eventually start rotating to the left all on it's own! So while everything works fine in air, it's a bit awkward on the ground. I have to hold left rudder to be able to stop the tail and unplug the heli when I'm done flying. :? I've tried trimming the rudder, and that will stop the movement on the ground, but then I have to counter the trim when in the air. Setting the G90 to HH or not doesn't seem to matter either.

Just curious if I'm missing something here? The stock 3-in-1 must have used it's main throttle input to counter this behavior? Hey, can I use Revo mixing to fix this! Hmm, did I just answer my own question? :oops:

[WhirlingBladesOfDeath]

OK, I was able to fix it sort of. I added a prog mix for Aux1 -> Rudd. When Aux1 is on, rudder is +40%. About 30% seemed to stop the tail motor, but it was still humming until about 35%, and I just kept going to 40% to be safe. I just need to remember to turn off Aux1 before liftoff or I'll probably have no tail response.

This can't be the "proper" fix on this? I'm curious how others have programmed around not having a 3-in-1, but still using a separate tail motor?

Thanks,
Jason

[jorgy23]

Ok.. I have been trying to get all of the pieces to this setup but I can't seem to find anybody that has the DD tail motor. I can get the speed controller and all of the other parts but not the motor itself. does anyone know where I can find these easily. or does anyone have an alternative???

[orlbuzz]

WhirlingBladesOfDeath,

I am using the DX7 and the AR6100 also. I use throttle hold to arm the gws t.motor esc. When I put throttle hold on, the rudder goes full left. It's also a safe way to plug in the lipo. I give it a few seconds to arm, flip the switch, and fly. Yes the t. motor does spin once I turn it on. I haven't found a solution to that, yet.

orlbuzz

[robl]

i got the esc50 as it said it was for lipos and not the isc50, will that be a problem?

[robl]

any overheating with the 4530 prop? I think thats part of my problem, the 3020 prop isn't holding for crap.

[rstacy]

any overheating with the 4530 prop? I think thats part of my problem, the 3020 prop isn't holding for crap.

It didn't hold for us either. We run the heat sink on the motor. No overheating problems.

[sukhoi]

could u please tell what adapter was used?