Is blade tracking about the blades or the linkage(s)?

[Gimbal Lock]

Hey Freaks,
I watched Blade Tracking 101 (THKS Bob!), which left me wondering, once the heli is tracked, does it have to be re-tracked if a different set of blades is mounted?

It seems to me that if the links are set, it would lock the head, except for the give in the feathering shaft's rubber o-rings? Is this right, or does blade tracking depend on the blades themselves?


To be honest, this process scares me a bit as a newb, I don't like idea of putting my eyes in the same plane as the rotor, anybody ever try using a camcorder or SLR camera on high speed burst to capture the tracking differential?

Thanks,
Gimbal Lock

[Jermo]

Hey Freaks,
I watched Blade Tracking 101 (THKS Bob!), which left me wondering, once the heli is tracked, does it have to be re-tracked if a different set of blades is mounted?
yes


It seems to me that if the links are set, it would lock the head, except for the give in the feathering shaft's rubber o-rings? Is this right, or does blade tracking depend on the blades themselves?
blades themselves


To be honest, this process scares me a bit as a newb, I don't like idea of putting my eyes in the same plane as the rotor, anybody ever try using a camcorder or SLR camera on high speed burst to capture the tracking differential?

Thanks,
Gimbal Lock
Yes ..or use some young person with eyes like a hawk (I sometimes get my son to help). I hover on a sunny day about eye level 10' away nose out, then pitch foward slowly and stop about 3' (13'),,then bring her back and repeat until I can see it. Generally I see the dark blue stripe but not the red one ( I use the white/red woodies).

[Gimbal Lock]

Thanks Jermo! And a big thanks for the DX7 vid.

Is it correct to say that blade tracking is to adjust for differences in lift between individual blades? And if so, where's the play in the head that allows one blade to fly higher, if all the links are set to identical length? Does it come from the Feathering Shaft bushings?

I got my AMA card in today's mail, now it's time to start scouting the local clubs!

This place is the shiznit. I'm gonna get fired before I get it all read!

:noteworthy:

[Jermo]

I think it's more a function of the aerodynamics of the blades in addition to the mechanical setup. We adjust the mechanics to force the blades to track to overcome slight differences in the two blades aerodynamics.

[BarracudaHockey]

Good blades and a properly set up links (set up with calipers and a pitch gauge) rarely need "tracking". Crappy (wood) blades and cheap carbon blades (I wont name names) need adjustments so they fly in the same plane, its due to quality control in the manufacturing process, airfoil consistency, balance (correct span wise AND chordwise CG) and the distribution of weight along the length of the blade.

[Gimbal Lock]

BarracudaHockey,would you PM me blades to be on the lookout not to buy?

I won't tell the world, but it certainly will help me make smart choices on my first set o' blades!


I don't know if I want to start out with Youngblood's or Radix $$$$ wise, but with what's already been invested in this bird, I don't want to skimp too much on the part that actually makes it fly.

I'm a real detail person, and knowing that the better my build quality is, the better off the heli will fly-I'll split hairs with the caliper and pitch gauge, just to try and get the heli mechanics spot on- so I really thank yall for helping me understand tracking.

[DavidH]

Gimbal Lock
If this is your first heli and your learning to fly with it. I suggest just getting some inexpensive wood blades and using them. Your going to break blades when you crash. So no need in putting your money into more expensive blades till you get beyond the crashing regularly stage. Yes even experienced pilots crash, but there crashes are usually not very often.
Wood blades are fine. If your a beginner your not going to be able to tell the difference between wood and carbon other than in your wallet.

How close are you to Chattanooga? There is a club just off I-75 around the Hamilton Mall area.

David

[BarracudaHockey]

Exactly what Dave said.

If you are looking for decent carbons for a reasonable price I like Thunder Tiger carbons, up from that in price range are NHP, VBlades and Radix (no no particular order) my preference is Radix, they suit my flying style.

[Gimbal Lock]

Hey David,
That club (CRCCFlyers.org), is only 4 miles from my house! In fact, I hope to make at least the sunday of the Helicopter fly in in may, and would like to have an assembled bird ready for some experienced eyes to look over with me.

I've already been in email contact with them, and hope to join very soon. I've been waiting for my AMA card, and the chance to go to a meeting.

And yup, this is my first heli, my only other "flying" has been on the sim. I fly the Trex 600 microhelis.g3x in G3.5 and am hopin' that that experience helps me with the real deal.


Will the TRex 600 be safe with wooden blades? The manual says not to use "general wooden blades" and to keep the head speed<2150 rpm/ are there good wood blades out there?

I'm all for cheaper . I've read that carbon blades cause more driveline and linkage damage in a crash since they don't break as easy, and I like that.

Thanks again :glasses2: