View Full Version : Trex SE or Mini Titan?
DAN GREEN
10-20-2008, 06:09 PM
I love the way my mini titan flies! My choice.
heliaddict22
10-27-2008, 11:38 PM
so the titan SE over B400? and anywhere i can get build vids?
Bayward
10-28-2008, 08:33 PM
so the titan SE over B400?
Absolutely ! In my opinion, that is. :YeaBaby:
Bob
helikev2
10-30-2008, 02:33 AM
if you noticed, the material used for the MT skid is much softer than the frame.
I thinks this is done on purpose, that it's better to let the skip break apart and absorp the impact than to have a boom strike or some thing else to break.
Wayshwing
10-31-2008, 02:54 AM
Buzz,
I have two Titans. Love them WAYYY moe than I ever did my 450SE.
Yes, LOTS of parts for TRex, BUT the Titans Do fly much smoother out of the box.
Some of you may agree that the Titan is a much "quieter" heli too, both mechanically and electrically. I would get all kinds of glitching and electronic noise from my 450 frame and boom. I sold that puppy after only 5 flights. :thumbdown:
I REALLY love the Mini Titans. So smooth, build quality way better than Align helis IMHO. Everything fits well; whats supposed to be tight is tight, and whats supposed to be smooth is smooth. No reworking required!
For Thunder Tiger parts, everyone PLEASE go to www.readyheli.com (http://www.readyheli.com). They have been my sole source for Titan kits and parts. They are trying very hard to make a name for themselves in the Thunder Tiger heli market. Please support their efforts! They are the best Mini Titan supplier I have found. Very helpful AND flexible. They even price match (have done it twice for me so far, no issues), with both online and offline stores.
Do yourself a BIG favor and opt for the Mini Titan. You will love the heli, and save tons of frustration! .. :thumbup:
fakyrr
10-31-2008, 06:43 PM
As this old thread has been reopened it's worth noting that both the tracking and overheating issues have been solved in newest MT versions, the first by replacing the blade grips and mixing arms with stronger ones and the second by adding a heatsink on top of ESC (note that this point doesn't solve the fact ESC's randomly fail and that you really NEED to cut all vents in your canopy or even create new ones or enlarge existing ones if you are using Proline canos)
heliaddict22
11-02-2008, 04:53 PM
well, i decided id go with the mini titan. and man. what can i say but resilience so far. i went to go reverse a servo (for CCPM) and accidentally clicked the throttle thing to reverse in the DX6i, which created the throttle hold to go off. the heli flew across the room, and only the blade grips broke....not even the blades (and i checked them under a microscope to find problems with them :P). man that 4mm feathering shaft does wonders...its great so far :)
dude_109
11-13-2008, 08:26 AM
fakyrr,
When you say, latest version has solved the tracking and soft mixing arm problems, is this on the basic version or the CNC version? I'm contemplating buying the regular version and then adding CNC mixing arms, grips, and perhaps head block. I don't do 3D so only need upgraded parts to not wear out so fast.
Mikej
11-13-2008, 09:12 AM
I have the latest version of the plastic kit and no tracking problems (only about 10 flights, but so far very happy)
Mike.
fakyrr
11-13-2008, 10:27 AM
Yes I meant the basic plastic version currently sold and the new plastic spares.
I didn't upgrade to metal yet but I already tested many different blades and I got them all tracking really easily.
fakyrr
11-13-2008, 10:32 AM
I just re-read above and I must add that you can still screw your tracking if you are not careful when mounting head block on main shaft: don't tighten it more than needed otherwise headblock will be ruined (egg shaped)
dude_109
11-13-2008, 01:41 PM
Do I still need the spacer in the blade grip if I'm planning on using Align Pro woodies?
Still compiling my list of things to be included in order.
fakyrr
11-13-2008, 02:00 PM
Yes you need either a spacer of some kind or TT part PV0829 (which is the best solution of course)
First link I found: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134829
Do I still need the spacer in the blade grip if I'm planning on using Align Pro woodies?
Still compiling my list of things to be included in order.
Align woodies and spacers. I like them a lot. It is pretty easy to get the grip tension just right with the spacers. On my old Blade 400 the grip would either be too tight or too loose. I was always dealing with a crazy wobble on spool up. Sorry for the lint in the picture, the D40 catches everything.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c355/7wt/DSC_0080.jpg
dude_109
11-13-2008, 02:33 PM
Thanks for the info, guys. There's an MT going on the Xmas list. My CopterX won't be happy when it goes on the shelf in a couple of months.
As this old thread has been reopened it's worth noting that both the tracking and overheating issues have been solved in newest MT versions, the first by replacing the blade grips and mixing arms with stronger ones and the second by adding a heatsink on top of ESC (note that this point doesn't solve the fact ESC's randomly fail and that you really NEED to cut all vents in your canopy or even create new ones or enlarge existing ones if you are using Proline canos)
How do I tell what version of MT I have?
I bought my all-plastic MT kit (with esc+motor), new in box from some forum guy, in Aug 2008. I don't know how long he had it before selling it to me.
The ESC was in pink heat shrink with a pink heatsink exposed in a cutout. But it was still very hot, thermal shutdown when flown continuously for 1 pack.
Is there a visible difference in the blade grips and mixing arms? Are there old/new photos somewhere?
Does an old-MT accept the same spare parts as new-MT? (thus if an old-MT got the current mixing arms and grips, then it would be equivalent to the new-MT?
henrik04
11-16-2008, 01:56 AM
How do I tell what version of MT I have?
I bought my all-plastic MT kit (with esc+motor), new in box from some forum guy, in Aug 2008. I don't know how long he had it before selling it to me.
The ESC was in pink heat shrink with a pink heatsink exposed in a cutout. But it was still very hot, thermal shutdown when flown continuously for 1 pack.
Is there a visible difference in the blade grips and mixing arms? Are there old/new photos somewhere?
Does an old-MT accept the same spare parts as new-MT? (thus if an old-MT got the current mixing arms and grips, then it would be equivalent to the new-MT?\
You'll be much happier with metal parts for the head. Flying is smoother and more precise. So doesn't matter really which version you got. By your description I would be tempted to say it is the original one (Not the SE).
The original ESC was just good to boil your coffee (or tea) in between flights!
So from there to a smooth problem free bird you just have few dollars to go, and plenty of fun.
Happy flying.
heliaddict22
11-16-2008, 07:00 PM
hi i have the E325 and a DX6i transmitter, and i was wondering about how come my helicopter wont take off. the rpms are there, but is it because of the pitch i have it set at is a little off? i went by the beginner settings for pitch AND throttle, but it seems i really have to push that throttle past 75% just to keep it in the air. can anyone help explain this? because id like to enjoy my heli for what its worth. thanks!
What pitch are you running just above mid stick?
heliaddict22
11-17-2008, 01:48 AM
75% is mid stick, which is also with 65% throttle, which just seems weird. i should also note that the blades are tracking perfectly so its not like vibration is an issue. i dont know what to say. and i feel like once i DO get it in the air im afraid that because i have little room left for it to really get in the sky, if i dropped the stick to mid i would just fall, but at the same time rocket to the sky once it DOES reach lift off point.
rotorhead58d
11-17-2008, 02:30 AM
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/generic&filename=curves101.wmv
watch this video if you can.
normal pitch curve should be around 40, 45,50,75,100
idle pitch curve should be 0,25,50,75,100
normal throttle curve should be around 0,50,80,90,100
idle throttle curve should be 100,95,90,95,100
Mikej
11-17-2008, 02:39 AM
75% is mid stick, which is also with 65% throttle, which just seems weird. i should also note that the blades are tracking perfectly so its not like vibration is an issue. i dont know what to say. and i feel like once i DO get it in the air im afraid that because i have little room left for it to really get in the sky, if i dropped the stick to mid i would just fall, but at the same time rocket to the sky once it DOES reach lift off point.
I would change your throttle curve - it is the common belief that helis fly best with a constant head speed and changing the pitch to change lift (brushless motors work most efficiently this way, and ESCs are most efficient this way). Try a throttle curve similar of 0, 90, 90, 90, 100, the higher head speed will aid stability also.
Good luck,
Mike.
heliaddict22
11-17-2008, 08:56 PM
is that what he says and shows in the video? because for some reason my comp doesnt want to run it
Oracle
11-26-2008, 04:26 PM
I'm weighing the same decision. (assuming my Gaui 100pro i just listed sells for the cashola. ;))
I'm leaning to the mini Titan even tho theres some good deals going for the TrexSE V1
How about ease of working on these 2? Will changing the Titans mainshaft bearings mean a lot more work to split its frame vs the Trex sandwich style frame?
Mikej
11-26-2008, 06:14 PM
Personally I can only speak for the low-end of each range as I have had 450XL Trex's and now have a plastic MT, and for me the MT is far preferable - much more stable, spares prices are much more reasonable and it flies really nicely. I feel that my MT helps me more than the 450's did