Raptor e620 SE build videos!

[rotorhead58d]

Was there ever a flight video done for this build. If I missed it in here somewhere I apologize???

but there was no video for the kasama mods...:bawl

[Finless]

You guys don't really wanna watch my lame flying anyway do you ;)

Bob

[rotorhead58d]

You guys don't really wanna watch my lame flying anyway do you ;)

Bob

10 times better than my lame flying

[RMG2]

yes. it's in the HV85 set up video that is posted at the end of the build

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=36194

Rotorhead, Thank you for pointing me to the link.


Bob, I'm a rookie just about to finish my first CP build, If your flying is considered lame, I'll be very happy when I reach "lame" status with my own flying skills:thumbup:

[rotorhead58d]

bob, did you ever get to try the 140 degree swashplate?

[Finless]

No I did not because I don't have the swash to do it....

Bob

[rotorhead58d]

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134276

:)

[3D Dave]

Bob,

In building my E550,

Step 3 (Pg 8) says to "add grease inside the one way clutch before your first flight. The one way clutch might lock up once grease is gone."

I have the grease but in your E620 build video I didn't see where to add grease (I forgot to read that part in the manual again before I assembled the main gear with both large C clips (which was a pain).

Now I need to know where the grease goes (I bought a tube of white grease with teflon) and if I need to take the the gear clips off again and disassemble the main gear or if it just goes on the OUTSIDE of the one way clutch housing (before the Autorotation Tail Drive Pulley goes on) in which case that's still not in the heli so no biggie to add it.

Which, by the way I see no text or pictures showing how the Autorotation Tail Drive Pulley gets attached)

Help!

Dave D.

[Finless]

Mine was WELL GREASED so I didnt have to add any. But you add it INSIDE the one way bearing. So yes you would have to remove the clip to grease the bearing.

Bob

[3D Dave]

Thanks Bob.

If you mean white grease seeping out of the gear and getting on your hands then I don't have much if any. If you mean a "silky smooth" feel when rotating by hand as if it was lightly greased (but no gushing or visible grease) then that's how mine is.

Should I assume I don't need to add grease then? I had to use the needle-nose pliers method to get those darn C clips on and it took a while.

The kit is brand new, out of the box.

Dave D.

ps, how do I attach the Autorotation Tail Drive Pulley?

[Finless]

Well there wont be any seeping out even if you greased it! I would say fly it and check that the auto clutch is not locking up after a flight but you better go get a REAL tool to remove the clip (there are like $5) as you WILL be removing that sleeve from time to time to clean out the auto clutch and re-oil. Common thing with Raptors.

Bob

[GatoVolador]

I'd reccommend you get a c-clip tool from your hardware/automotive store -- it makes it super easy to take the clips off and on. With the tool, when you squeeze the handle it spreads the fingers so it's a lot easier to work with. I wouldn't just try oiling the oneway from the outside -- you really need to pack it with grease from the inside...

[3D Dave]

Thanks Bob & Mike.

I was not going to remove those big C clips since it was so hard getting them on but I was determined to do it right.

I got it apart and greased up the rollers in the bearing. The C clip didn't go back on quite as tight as the first time but I think it's tight enough that I won't have to worry about it until next time I take it off.

Minor detail Bob but in your video (thanks again) you show putting the last C clip on the end where there's no room for the tips of your needle nose to fit (they hit the main gear) so the clip is harder to get on that end (with needle nose tips popping out of the clip holes) I'd recommend the opposite end first.

I really need to buy a real C clip removal tool. I'll look at the hardware stores.

Today I received my TT Ripper motor and I'm on page 9 of the build

What kind of connectors are you guys using for the motor-ESC? I was going to use the standard bullet connectors but my LHS recommended the huge Astro Flight 3 terminal high current plugs.

Dave D.

[rotorhead58d]

bob, my E550 build is going well. everything fits, and is going together nicely. thanks for the videos. do you remember warning us to be careful with the little e clips for the tail? i lost one. putting it on the pin and FLING! off it went. i went over everything with a magnet...no luck! you warned us though. lol

[Finless]

Yea... I HATE those e-clips!

Bob

[3D Dave]

Bob,

I have a very important question...

I decided to shorten the wires on the TT Ripper motor for my E550 before I put connectors on. I had NO IDEA the wire they use would NOT melt solder. After my 40W iron wouldn't cut it I took out my 150/230 watt gun and tried it. Still wouldn't work. After scraping the wire strands with a razor blade to see if there was some kind of coating on them I was able to get a "small" amount of solder to adhere.

I'm using the standard bullet connectors that TT supplied with the motor. Trying to remedy the situation, I made sure there was plenty of solder in the connector and I heated both as hot as they'd get with the gun and attached them. Then, I put a LONG piece of shrink tube over the connector for added insurance.

My problem is I'm a little nervous that the connector(s) might overheat and separate in flight. Is this something I should worry about? If so I don't know what I should do short of getting another motor or finding someone with an industial power soldering gun.

I had NO PROBLEM with the heavy guage wire on the Castle HV85 so it's just the TT motor leads I'm concerned about.

What do you think?

I wish I had known how hard the motor wires were to solder. I would have just left them alone since they were pre-tinned.

Dave D.

[Finless]

Motors are made up of MANY copper wires (they are the individual windings within the motor) that when they come out of the motor are twisted up, bundled, and pre-tinned for you. NEVER SHORTEN motor wires or you will have the problem you are seeing. The coper wire is coated either with as lacquer coating or a enamel coating. If you cut the wires PAST the factory pre-tin, then you have to do it yourself. Your going to have to burn off or scrape off the enamel and get to bare copper. You will need flux to get them cleaned up and soldered together. Twist the wires into a bundle and solder them together. This is a MUST before soldering on any connectors. Just ONE bad winding (single wire) miss-connection will be a BIG problem and could even fry the motor.

Bob

[rthomen]

I am flying, occasionally a Caliber 30 and would what I should do to line up the correct "phasing". I don't know enough to even answer the proper questions. Thanks for your consideration.
Bob

[GatoVolador]

Yikes! Yeah, you should never shorten your motor wires as they come pre-tinned from the factory and you may risk cutting-off the pre-tinned section of the wires if you cut it. No way would I trust any less-than-optimal solder joint either. The problem you're going to have now is making sure each individual wire has a solid connection to the bullet connector. If all the individual strands aren't making full contact then your motor is not going to run right and it might burn up. I hate to say it, but if it were me I'd probably call it a loss and get a new motor or send it back to the manufacturer for them to re-tin the wires and test the motor (not sure how much money or time that would be though...)

[3D Dave]

Thanks Bob & Mike.

I did scrape the wires quite a bit (about 30% off but not all the way around each wire) and the wires are only about 2" long now so I think it would be a MAJOR hassle to get all the solder (that bonded) and all the rest of the coating off of each individual strand so I might just send it back to where I bought it (or Thunder Tiger) and see what (if anything) they can do.

I'm just afraid to put $2,000.00+ up in the air with one dumb shortcoming and then have an "accident".

I ended up ordering a Tonic-X Z30A 1110 motor today so I won't have to wait who knows how many weeks to get this TT one fixed/replaced. Now I might be stuck with a brand new motor I can't use.

I think this should be in the "IMPORTANT BUILDING TIPS" for all brushless motors.

Time to start building the head and try to forget about my dumb mistake.

Dave

[rotorhead58d]

bob,

i just got done with my maiden flight on my E550 raptor. it hovers really nice. the blades tracking was right on. i really spent alot of time watching all of your build videos, and flew plenty on the sim. so far, this was the easiest to build out of the four heli's i own. thank you so much for your dedication to this hobby. several others on the e raptor forum have helped me too. here is a pic of it.

again thank you

kevin

51675 51676 51677

[Finless]

Thanks Kevin! Cool man I love a successful maiden story, and I am SO glad I helped you! :)

Bob

[3D Dave]

Bob,

I'd also like to thank you for your build videos. This E550 was my first "complete kit" and only 3rd heli. First was a blade CX-2 last Nov. and 2nd was a mini-Titan ARF in Jan.

That video really helped including the few "tips" you give that are not in the instructions.

The maiden was yesterday (Monday) and I flew the last of 3 packs as my local heli mentor had to trim everything out and set the headspeed for me. It's about 1740 a Tonic-X Z-30A 1110kv motor which might be a little low but I'm still a "noob" so I'm fine with it for now. I'm getting about 7-8 minutes on my 6s 5300mAh Li-Po's.

Today I flew all 3 packs :YeaBaby:

Hope all is well in "finless" land :)

Dave D.

[3D Dave]

Also,

I'd like to thank GatoVolador for all his help on the forums with my pre-build questions.

Two thumbs way up :thumbup: :thumbup:

Dave D.

[Finless]

Congrats! Glad to hear you had a successful maiden!!!

Happy Flying.

Bob