what to expect when going brushless

[txflyer]

so i couldnt stop my self and bought the e-flite 20 amp brushless esc for my cppro. i mainly got it for the longer run time, i dont go into idle up yet. so what should i expect once i get installed and set up. oh and im using the park 370 brushless motor.

[Buzzkill]

To be honest, at least for me, the change wasn't that drastic. Better? Yes. Wow thats awesome? No. Could just be me.

[txflyer]

is it still as loud as the brushed main motor

[slikrx]

It will be slightly quieter, but whether or not you will hear the difference depends on your hearing. The majority of noise from these little brids comes from 2 places: rotor slap and main the gear/pinion whine.

(which reminds me, you need to use the pinion off your stock motor wit hteh brushless motor. The gears that come with the Park 370 do not mesh correctly)

If you have any heli flyers at your local field you may be able to comapre what I mean. Som Trex 600s use a straight cut gear like our CPPs do. There is an aftermarket helical cut gear as well. The helical cut gear setup is MUCH quieter.

[Gino CP]

The biggest change is reliability and higher torque. The brushless heli has more oomph climbing. A lot depends on how you are setup. What pinion you use, how you set the throttle and pitch curves.

If you are using the stock tx, then you have little choice but to use the 8T pinion. This brings you to near stock head speed. Using a 10T or 11T gives a higher head speed but since you will be hovering below midstick, idle transitions will be crazy. Heli goes immediately into reverse pitch when you switch idle up on.

The tail may no long cope with the torque produced by a brushless motor. It can probably hold, but will most likely kick when punching hard.

What is your full setup?

[txflyer]

just stock tx 800mah stock packs. 8th pinion. g90, direct drive tail with gws edp 50xc motor, aluminum swash plate and now a deans micro antenna.

[Gino CP]

The tail will hold in a hover and forward and backwards flight but it will lose it when punching hard. A GWS ICS50 J tail esc solves this.

However I cannot recommend it at this point because I am not sure the stock tx can manage the tail with no tweaking ability apart from trim. But since the ICS50 J or ICS50Li is relatively cheap, I see no point why you can't try one.

Don't worry about the voltage rating on the ICS50 J. It works fine. The only drawback is having to pull full left rudder when arming the tail esc.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/brushlesswithgyro.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Fullseparates.jpg

[txflyer]

thanks man ive always wondered how you would wire up a tail esc. tho one day i plan on going with a belt drive tail..

[Gino CP]

Watch for my Freestyle belt conversion review. I have a kit for the Honeybee CP2 coming. Kits are available for the Blade CP/Pro, Twister, Hummingbird. This will basically complete my evaluation of micro tail flavors.

[txflyer]

nice, now is it just me or is setting the main gear mesh in the cppro a pita. ive been messing it with it for a few hours now. but can seeem to get any tighter of a gear mesh,and jesus trying to find a mounting place for the esc and all the damn wires. i cant use my body for the heli anymore cuz it wont fit..

[slikrx]

nice, now is it just me or is setting the main gear mesh in the cppro a pita. ive been messing it with it for a few hours now. but can seeem to get any tighter of a gear mesh,and jesus trying to find a mounting place for the esc and all the damn wires. i cant use my body for the heli anymore cuz it wont fit..
The best place I've seen it mounted on a stock CPP is under the battery tray, between the skids.

As for gear mesh, remember to use the pinion off the original brushed motor. The pinions that come with the brushless motor do not mesh well at all.

[Buzzkill]

Gino, Have you tried a BL tail ?

[Gino CP]

No I haven't.

[slikrx]

I put one of those feigao motors on my tail, along withthe large prop that is suggested by bladecprepair.com.

HOLY COW that thing makes some thrust! (and gets way too hot)

I need to see which one I used (fast or slow one) and look at using a smaller prop.

A BL tail looks like a very good contender.

[Buzzkill]

I used the heatsink that comes with the DD tail motor on mine. I use the 5300kv. Didnt you get both a 4X and 5X motor?
Highest temp I've had on te tail motor so far was around 148F. I dont how hot is too hot.

[txflyer]

my tail doesnt even get warm maybe luke warm at best. i am using a 8t .05 module pinion bought seperately

[slikrx]

I used the heatsink that comes with the DD tail motor on mine. I use the 5300kv. Didnt you get both a 4X and 5X motor?
Highest temp I've had on te tail motor so far was around 148F. I dont how hot is too hot.

:) yeah, I got both. The 5300 also has a higher amp rating.

I made a fresh thread about this, and I'll try to make a quick video tonight shing the difference.

Unfortunately, I didn't put the heat sink on it yet. Still sitting in the package. :oops: I didn't expect it to get hot so quickly. (I'd say over 145F, and probably over 150. DANG hot)

I also need to see which motor I mounted. Sometimes I just "DO" without thinking or paying enough attention. :arggg:

[Buzzkill]

LOL. I do the same thing. I noticed when I set my gyro to maximum gain without tail wag it helped alot. I have a stock TX so my options are limited. Also I set the throttle to 85% on the ESC to help stop the heat. What's your Pheonix 10 settings on the tail? I have 3x2 and the black prop that comes with the DD tail conversion from GWS. The 3x2 caused alot more heat. I have a gear puller on order so I can try the geared stock setup with the BL to see if it helps any.

[slikrx]

My Phoenix USB programming thing literally just arrived, so I haven't had a chance to tinker. I'm gonna be busy tonight!

[Buzzkill]

You'll love it. Lots of options and easy programing.

[slikrx]

You'll love it. Lots of options and easy programing.
I just realized something that has me scared a bit: I cut the "+" wire in the servo lead to the gyro (per instructions)

Will it work without it?

I know that the "+" lead has to be cut to disable the BEC part so it doesn't send 6 volts (or whatever) and burn out the gyro.

:bomb:

[txflyer]

well im grounded till friday maybe saturday. i stripped the holes out on the adapter to use the park 370 with gws or e-flite heli's. then today i had to file the main motor mounting slots cuz i wasnt getting the mesh tight enough. i was offered a trex 450 with everything but a tx and rx for 500. so i might grab that if one other thing goes wrong with the installation this weekend. ive noticed not being able to fly atlest once a day, is kinda putting me in a bad mood.

[Buzzkill]

I dont use my red wire. I didnt cut it I just unplugged it but it works fine.

[Gino CP]

We all have our bad days and wish buying a new heli solves everything. It won't. The new heli will have its own set of issues. It is part of the hobby. If we focus on the task at hand and do some research, problems get solved. I personally do things that other people have tried successfully.

[txflyer]

i do my research, the reason why i want another heli is that i dont have any down time. i also want something that can handle wind better then the pro. atlest i have time to clean up the wiring, and i got the esc set up. just need the new adapter ring and the correct sized bolts.


btw those of you using the park 370 in a cp pro what sized screws did you use to mount the motor the frame ?