View Full Version : help needed

08-22-2011, 02:07 AM
well im trying to sort out some vibrations on a friends vision 50,,ive completely stripped it dawn and rebuilt and what ive noticed is that if the starter shaft and clutch bell are perfectly straight (vertical of coarse) the the main gear seems very tight on the drive cog on the starter shaft but if i losen the screws on the 2 bearing blocks on the starter shaft and pull it away from the main cog and retighten it seems a lot better but the shaft is then not sitting straight,,,also the auto rotation cog seems so close to the clutch bell its almost touching and iat 1 point of its rotation i think it is touching and this is whats causing the vibes

08-22-2011, 07:09 PM
Im in the process of upgrading my V50 with TT..

I found the same thing, with the clutch bell getting very close to to gears.. I ended up added a few shims to lower the clutch bell a few mm. I now have ample clearance between the TT auto rotation gear and clutch bell.

The holes that hold the upper and lower bearing blocks for the starter shaft should have elongated holes so you can move the entire clutch assembly as 1 unit, keep everything straight.

You need to have a small amount of backlash between the main gear and the starter shaft pinion. Just enough to hear a small click if you move the gear. .

08-23-2011, 06:13 AM
thx for that dude and i will try it tonigh,,still i cant belive they made it this way that the auto gear catches the clutch bell

08-24-2011, 02:10 AM
Im pretty sure the V50 was originally designed with the belt drive.. It maybe a case of the manual not being correct as I had shims with my TT kit.. When I installed my TT kit I had the same problem with the TT gear touching the clutch bell. I just assumed thats what the shims were for. So i pulled it all apart and installed the shims giving me reasonable clearance.

Rob Cherry
08-30-2011, 04:11 PM
Odd. My xtreme kit was ok out of the box as far as clutch bell clearance. I did have alignment problems though, so I ended up elongating the bearing block holes and added 0.5mm washers under the motor mounts to move the engine farther toward the front. This gave better alignment options, which isn't very easy to obtain with all of the movable blocks.

To achieve the best alignment, I removed the hex starter collar and let the clutch bell sit onto the clutch. From there (using a light) you can see when the engine is in perfect alignment, and when it is you'll see the bell sittting perfectly flush on the clutch. Then tighten the engine and lower starter block. Now move the top block around until the starter shaft spins backwards freely, then tighten the top block.

Using this same method I also noticed my engine wasn't aligned left to right, loosened up the engine bolts and made sure it was straight.

Whew. Perfectly aligned.

10-13-2011, 07:33 PM
I was fighting alignment forever on this thing causing major vibrations i have found the best way for me which has worked everytime. With the motor out and the screws loosley in clutch stack take one screw out of each of the blocks so you can see the threads and the hole. Set your mesh then i matched the upper hole location with the lower. Tighten and screw everything up now. Next install the motor. Put the screws in just enough so the motor still can move but not so loose the motor can move itself under its own weight. Glow plug out of the motor stick your starter in and spin it a few times around. This will line everything up! tighten all motor bolts down. This has worked great!