Bergen EB setup... making sure I didn't mess this up :)

[rccardude04]

Apparently I missed that. :)
The geometry worked out nicely with it anyway so I wasn't planning on changing it :p
Thanks!

Mark, is it a scale bird or are you just that crazy? :D
Maybe photography? lol I'll stop guessing.
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

Crazy...me...I don't think so, but isn't that what crazy people usually say :D

I wanted to try it out to see about the possible benefits to converging my EB to flybarless. Converted my raptor 'cuz I don't mind seeing it go in as much as the EB :wink: Now I'm sold. You've got to see a flybarless rig hovering in HH to appreciate it. If only I had the skills to take advantage of the handling improvements. :roll:

[rbort]

I don't know about that....I flew a Trex 450 with no flybar (converted by Eyal who works at my friend's place, rchover.com) setup for a customer and I tell you with no flybar the machine is not as solid and responsive as you expect a model to be. It feels more like the real thing, with delay in control inputs and response of the machine. I suppose if you were trying to practice flying full scale with a model, it gives you that good delay feel you get with a Robinson 22 for example.

But really if you need to put 3 gyros to make it more stable and feel good, what is the benefit there? I like the looks of it with no flybar and less parts, but if I need to add gyros -- really can fly it without gyros but anyway, is it worth it? Maybe down the road they will be improved so they fly just as responsive as with a flybar, but for now, I think that are just a showpiece more than anything.

Just my "humble" opinion as they say!

-=>Raja.

[rccardude04]

Is the revolution antenna okay to just ziptie to the bottom of the radio tray plate up front? Or should I build a spiffy mount for it?
-Eric

[rbort]

Just use gyro tape and double stick it to the side of the airframe anywhere -- That is how I mount mine!

Key thing is that keep all the servo wires to one side of the model as much as possible and only the whip antenna wire by itself on the other side for better reception.

-=>Raja.

[rccardude04]

Cool. Most of my wires are back towards the rear of the tray. I have my receiver on the rearward part and the battery in front of it with they gyro amp on top of the battery. I'll probably put my antenna super far forward on the tray and call it good.
Thanks again :D
-Eric

[rccardude04]

Has anyone ever had trouble with the torque tube? The setscrews have me a little worried. I've only ever really used belt drive tails though. I grabbed the tail rotor and twisted on the main just a little bit to see if it was at least reasonably sturdy, and it didn't budge.
Why can't it be one straight shot from front to rear? I'm sure there's a good reason for the bearing block in the middle, but it still confuses me.
Chris? :D
-Eric

[rccardude04]

I also should ask...
I just read through a bunch of stuff on the other site as well as here, and it seems like more than a few people use "camper" fuel?
What exactly is camper fuel? Why would you use it? I'm just planning on using 87 octane pump gas...
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

By putting a bearing in the middle, you reduce the tendancy to whip in the middle. Just like they do with long driveshafts on cars and trucks.

Camper fuel...are you flying a camper :wink: . Let's not get Chris started on that one, again. :) Seems to be a 'perfume' issue.

[rccardude04]

Ah, so it just "smells" better?
I bet the 87 octane runs better ;)

On the bearings in the middle, I understand why they're there. But why can't it be one shaft going the whole length with the bearings slid over the shaft in the middle to support it?
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

That is how it is done on the tailshaft on Bell 206's and I'll tell you that changing the bearings was a royal pain. You would also then need a way to secure the bearing in that location.

Only Larry or Chris could answer that but I would suspect that they might say, 'because it works'.

As long as you get a good dimple into the bearing shafts for the setscrew to seat in, you won't have any troubles.

[cbergen]

On the EB versions, there is a connector or coupling in the middle because the arrow shaft is not LONG ENOUGH to complete the whole length!! :)

The instructions tell you to cut at least 1" off of each end of the arrow shaft because it MAY not be the correct diameter to fit the shafts that we use for the tail drive.

After cutting this "excess" off of the ends, there isn't enough shaft left.......

On the standard versions (33" boom) you do use just 1 arrow shaft, it is one complete piece, with the bearing guide around the shaft.

[rccardude04]

Haha, that's a good enough reason for me!
We were all kind of wondering why. Now I can tell everybody :)
Thanks!
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

See, I knew Chris would know :D

[rccardude04]

Haha, he should!
I flew my raptor with a governor yesterday (Thunder Tiger ZeroAlpha) and it's very nice. I think I'll be getting one for the gasser too. Even with 2 governors in my arsenal, I'll still be cheaper than one heli tach. LOL!
Just gotta figure out how to glue a magnet to the aluminum fan... JB weld? In a non-jerry rigged way of course.
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

What about a Stator Gator?

[rccardude04]

Stator Gator?? What's that?
I was actually thinking about the GV-1 from Futaba since I have a 9C and the setup should be easier on it.

Edit: As usual, I asked before I looked myself... Is it a governor that works off of ignition pulses??? That'd make it about as precise as an electric governor in the Phoenix 35 I use on my T-Rex :D
Their site doesn't have a lot of info though... How's this work?

Another Edit: http://statorgator.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=28
?
-Eric

[MarkWebber]

Haven't used one myself but automobile systems have been successfully using ign. pulse triggers to read the engine rpm for some time now. :D

Not sure about the Phoenix 35 :wink:

[rccardude04]

Hrm... Anybody out there have experience with one of these things?
I'd like to know what it does/how it works/etc.
Do you plug the GV-1 sensor into it? Their website could be more vague but I think they'd have to try.
-Eric

[cbergen]

Sorry, been busy the last couple of days....

The Staotr Gator is a sensor used INSTEAD of the hall effect sensor. It plugs into the Black wire coming from the primary coil and uses that pulse as the RPM indicator.

Now because you don't want that 40,000+ volts going to the governor and RX, the signal is optically coupled beforehand.

This unit is basicaly plug and play, you still program the governor in the same way, the only difference being you will not see any sensor percentage while the engine is not running.

There are 2 different versions available, for the PUH style engine like we use, or the RC style engine like the Vario.

[rccardude04]

Which one would I want? The PUH one? They're not all that expensive...
Can I still use an electronic kill switch?
If I get that, then I get a GV-1 and I pretty much have a governor that is almost 100% reliable, eh?
It'd be MUCH better than the magnet I'm sure...
Gassers are looking so much cooler than nitro by the minute. So far, I have an alternator on the way and a governor ran off of ignition that looks very, very interesting.
-Eric

[cbergen]

There are 2 different versions available, for the PUH style engine like we use, or the RC style engine like the Vario.


You need the PUH style.

As for the kill switch, we don't use one. If you need to kill the engine immediately, use the choke or place your hand over the venturi if you have one.

Set the throttle linkage up so that throttle trim all the way down shuts the engine off.

[rccardude04]

That's what I figured. Don't even bother with the kill switch then eh?
On my raptor and all my planes I have a momentary switch that kills it (trainer switch). I'll probably do the same with this.
Thanks!
-Eric

[cbergen]

The throttle cut switch on the radio is one thing, I thought you were referring to one on the helicopter itself.

Certainly set up the throttle cut on the radio, makes life alot easier. :D

If and when you have a hot start on your gasser, or some other emergency when you need to shut the engine down quickly AND you have your hands on the heli, then just operate the choke or place your hand over the venturi.

[lperagallo]

Eric, I run a GV1 with a DX7 on the Intrepid. As long as you have the engine tuned and broken in they are fine. I like mine and after some initial set up issues (my problem) it works great with the stator gator. Easy to set up and run. PM me if you need any help setting it up. 35 page manual takes some time to get through. There is also a good write-up in raptortechnique for your radio.

Lou