R90 building tips

[Laurens]

Does anybody have any raptor 90 specific building tips that will make my rappy fly better/more reliable?

[Kinger]

Hey Laurens,

There is a great R90SE build up thread here -> http://www.archeli.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6368&highlight=

You'll need to register on the site to view it, but there are a lot of good tips in there that are worth reading.

Mike

[Laurens]

Somehow they decided they won't let me in. I registered and never got a reply. I just tried to register again but it says my email is already been used.

If I try to get a new password it says my account isn't active...

[bgjames111]

There are A LOT of screws in this kit, I've built two! Take your time and locktite everywhere. Best tips I could give.

[Laurens]

I was thinking more like stuff like filing the bushings that go into the bearings in the rotorhead. These make the stock head have a lot of play.

I'll send you a PM about the Gforce head.

[bgjames111]

I didn't notice excess play in mine. I like the heli as it comes, with the addition of the g-force head parts.

[Kinger]

Sorry about the website Laurens. Not sure why it's not working........

As for upgrades or things I'd change, I'd go with the Infinavation team kit and the SUS tail hub for sure. The Quick UK autohub is also very nice to have but isn't necessarily required unless you have frequent lock ups with the stock auto hub. The only other option I did with mine was move the tail servo up front instead of using the rear mount.

[Laurens]

I'm looking at the Gforce head. The R90std has the tail servo up front as a standard. I don't like it rear mounted because your servo will get oily after long inverteds.

I'll see if I replace the tail hub and autohub. Autohub only if I have frequent lockups. Tail might be cool with the thrust bearings.

[Kinger]

Hey Laurens,

I wasn't saying to replace the tail setup with a QUK unit or something else that uses thrust bearings. I was just saying to replace the original kit item with the SUS version from TT. This is a CHEAP upgrade (less than $10) and it is a much better setup than the original as it's a one piece unit instead of two pieces.

Mike

[SansHeli]

Hi
The only other option I did with mine was move the tail servo up front instead of using the rear mount.

Is this to protect the tail servo from getting full of oil or less chance of it being damaged in a crash or both? Do you loose much in terms of performance moving the tail servo up front or would that only be apparent to a very experienced flyer?

SansampHeli

[bgjames111]

I've had two raptor90se's and one I had the servo mounted in the rear, and the one I have now, It's mounted up front. I cannot tell a difference, granted Im not Szabo, but I think even if there were a little difference in performance, it would be worth it to save the servo by running it up front. There is a TON of oil that will coat the servo every time you fly!

[SansHeli]

Hi

I've had two raptor90se's and one I had the servo mounted in the rear, and the one I have now, It's mounted up front.

Would you have to buy the 90Std tail servo links/rods to put the tail servo up front on the 90SE?

SansampHeli

[Kinger]

Yep, you'd just need the R90STD setup. I moved mine up front for the two reasons you mentioned. Keeps the servo out of the oil stream and I like to think that it will be safer up under the hood. (No guarantees on that one though.) As for performance between the two, I don't think there is enough performance gain between the tail mounted and the front mounted for the "average" pilot to notice.

[raptor30v2owner]

last thing we all need is a servo gone becuase of oil!
say where do i find a cheap tach/gov?

[Laurens]

Futaba Gv1
CY ATG
TJ pro

Thats what youré looking for.

[Jerry]

PV0416 is the tail pushrod kit to run the forward tail servo. I've run them both ways - no performance difference. Note - if you run the fwd tail servo, you cannot run the ELE push pull kit.

PV0499 is the tail hub you should run.

I run the stock autohub, knock on wood - they've been good to me.

Build tips:

Anytime a pin secures a gear to a shaft....use two setscrews and one of the following methods. Green loctite the pin into the shaft or install heat shrink over the gear hub after the pin is in - then CA the heatshrink. This prevents pin shedding.

The ELE arm that mounts to the elevator tray also uses a pin. I use a longer pin - so that a little sticks out each side. I green loctite the arm and the pin. This prevents the pin from 'shedding' and the arm from wobbling with slop. The long pin is used so that if I need to remove it - i can use channel locks staggered on the unit to press it out and break free the green loctite. Otherwise - with the stock pin- i'd have to hammer it out to break it free.

All of the 90's I've built have required the bushings in the head that support the seesaw to be filed slightly to remove play.

I would open up the opening in the top of the fanshroud so that the clutch bell can drop through it. If you don't do that - when the day comes to take out the stack - you'll wish you did.

Remove your clutch liner and cut a piece of paper out of the front or back cover of instructions. Clean up the bell and scuff it nicely. Apply epoxy - then the paper - more epoxy - then a new liner. Wrap your clutch in a piece of electrical tape and push it in. I put a real light coating of oil on the tape and the surfaces of clutch - so that excess epoxy doesnt glue that into bell. I also leave two bolts sticking out of clutch to aid in removal when its setup.

"center' your torque tube between the transmission and the TR gearbox gears. Dont have the tip buried in the front, and not all the way into the rear. You'll figure it out. It is possible to push that forward gear a smidge too far towards the nose when inserting the torque tube - destroying the transmission case mesh. Make sure after you shove the tube/boom in - you put your thumbs into either side of tranny case and 'pop' that gear back to a seated position in it's bearings.

Bend the tail support ends to match the angle it makes to the frameset/boom clamp. Your goal is so that when the bolts are tightened - when sighting down the support - the support doesn't bow at all. If it bows - you are preloading the ends. This is how you will snap bolts when vibration issues are encountered.

If using an Hatori header - dremel the left front fan shroud leg just a smidge to allow for clearance of the Hatori header. You'll see what I mean when you get to that step.

Take a little time to align your drivetrain. I do the top first - sighting the main gear to pinion to be parallel and properly meshed. Then I put the engine in - aligning it so that the start shaft spins free in the clutch one way bearing before tightening down.

Make sure your collective tray is built right - that you use a 4mm bushing on either side, and that when tightened - she is nice and smooth.

CA the flanged bearings into the sides of carbon collective tray.

Consider using a shouldered bolt where the ELE gray lever goes into collective tray pivot. Shoulder length to equal the width of ELE arm bushing + 4mm bushing. This is a high wear bolt - if you use the stock one - check it - cuz over time the bushings will unfortunately make quick work of the threads on bolt, and slop might develop.

I cannot stress enough - 10.5mm servo center to ball spacing for the AIL and ELE. Especially the AIL. If you don't care about burning up a servo or popping a link in flight - go ahead and do what you want. Taya designed it to 10.5 mm for a reason. If you want faster cyclics....solve it by messing around in the head with flybars/paddles/blades. Don't jack the control input INTO the swash. This is hack.

Get rid of side stiffeners, they are for ballast purposes only, unless you want the extra momentum when working with gravity.

Get rid of the bottom plate, unless you bought the model intending to wreck it a lot.

Might wanna replace the stock clunk lines that came in tanks.

Jerry

[Laurens]

Thanks Jerry, I'm going to look into that all tomorrow.

[Heli_Addict]

Somehow they decided they won't let me in. I registered and never got a reply. I just tried to register again but it says my email is already been used.

If I try to get a new password it says my account isn't active...

Laurens,
If you are using a web mail account it won't work, Archeli has had a lot of problems with spammers and they won't let you register with a web mail account.

It definitely is the best R90SE build thread out there. If you want help I can contact the site admin on your behalf.

Cheers,
Simon.

[Heli_Addict]

Note - if you run the fwd tail servo, you cannot run the ELE push pull kit.
Jerry,
Is there any real benefit running the elevator push/pull kit?

[Jerry]

I don't see any discernible difference.

I'm back to running the standard elevator with a fwd tail servo.

Jerry

[Laurens]

No MP5's available through the Netherlands :(