Metal rotor hub for Swift 16

[slopecat]

I posted a note about a problem I ran into with my first helicopter build in the Finless Bob Swift video forum the other day. He suggested that I post over here as the question wasn't really about the videos. Here is my follow-up and a little background info.

I have a brand new Swift 16 kit I am building and this is my first build of any kind. I already have a Swift 16 I bought flight ready from someone last fall. Between that and the videos, I don't expect to have much trouble.

I purchased one upgrade for my Swift and that is the CNC metal rotor hub. The first problem I had was that the feathering shaft in the kit would not fit in it. Lucky for me I had a crash kit with the newer hardened feathering shaft that fits in the metal hub. After I placed the grips into the hub I found that they did not move freely at all even when only using a very minimal amount of pressure to tighten the screws. This did not seem right at all. I was under the impression that the grips need to be torqued down pretty good.

A visit to a local helicopter club confirmed this. Nobody there had Swift experience but they were sure there was a problem of some sort. I took Bob's advice and assembled the grips with the standard feathering shaft and the plastic hub. This time I could tighten the grips screws very well and still have the grips rotate freely. I know that what I have now will work like it was intended to.

So my question is, what other special parts do I need to actually use the metal hub that I purchased? It seems kind of useless now. I didn't see anything on the Century web page that indicated metal grips or any other special parts were needed.

Thanks,
Mike

[Finless]

If you campare the 2 spindles are they the same length? They should be.
If they are then I have to assume something is worng with the machining of your metal head and I would call Century for a return/exchange.

Bob

[slopecat]

I don't have a caliper to get an accurate measurement, but it appears that the hardened shaft from the crash kit that fits in the metal hub is a little longer than the standard one that came with the kit.

[slopecat]

If you campare the 2 spindles are they the same length? They should be.
If they are then I have to assume something is worng with the machining of your metal head and I would call Century for a return/exchange.

Bob

I did get everything to fit together OK with the stock plastic head block and the old style spindle. I just wasn't happy with the idea of having a $35 aluminum paper weight so I took everything apart. I also bought a digital caliper and measured the two spindles. They were exactly the same length by my measurements.

I cleaned everything up and tried with the metal head block again. Same result. Just getting the grip screws finger tight causes them to bind and feel quite 'grainy'. I did not notice anything like that with the pastic head block and I tightened the screws about as much as I could without overdoing it.

I read the manual again about the way to put in the thrust bearing and watched the video again too. I'm sure I got it right. I guess I need to call Century. I sent e-mail to them on Thursday have have not received a response yet.

Thanks,
Mike

[Finless]

Yes it may be the the machining of the hole in the grips for the bearings is not deep enough and thus is binding it up. I think you got a BUM head my friend :(

Call Century and tell them I chatted with you about this and I feel your metal head needs to be replaced... Not that it means a hole lot but might help.

Bob

[trw]

Not that it will help you any but I purchased the metal head and installed it on a swift kit bought around xmas time and it went on with the standard parts without incident. Must be something wrong some of your parts.

[slopecat]

Yes, its seems to me like there must be something goofy with the part I have. After a few e-mails and a phone call, I sent the assembly in to Century today to have them take a look at it.

Mike

[aramsdell]

I had a different problem with the metal head. After I had changed the main shaft once or twice..... I tightened the 2 side clamping screws just a little unevenly. It only takes a little to get the head wobbling. The head will tilt away (at the top) from the tighter screw. It was only a little but it counts when getting really smooth.