Axe CP separations and setup journal

[HighTechRedneck]

I upgraded this axe cp with all the aluminum parts that could be bought. I would say now that it is well worth the cost, (consider all the blade grips and head parts you have bought). I upgraded the servos to faster/stronger servo and added Dubro Micro Ball Link .047.
(a lot better than the z-bends).. I got my mixer/gyro set-up with alot of fine adjustment and it handles great..
I sale heli max axe cp new parts on ebay (mixer/gyro,complete head assemblies and frames/tail booms,with motors.. All my actions start off at .99 cents and most of the parts have free shipping.. I also sale new heli max axe cp's ready to fly.. $150.00 plus $10.00 shipping/handling... my ebay name is timothymullins.
give me look if you like great prises... will be posting new items this Wednesday.. got 2 gyro/mixer up for bids now.....:clappp

[PilotLight]

Thanks for responding Ray...I am running it in normal mode(not digital). The 6i does run the gyro from channels 4&5 it will allow me to adjust the gain from it but it does not eliminate the "pulsing" of the tail motor...I will have to try to video it so I can show you what it does...but then I have the Freestyle tail conversion coming so with the elimination of the tail motor I should be fine...I can Hardly wait!
The Heli I have running with the Esky is working good...so I just need the winds to calm down here and I will be out flying beyond hovering my rec room...

You know, I just read the manual for the DX6i and it is really confusing for the gyro set up. I'm thinking the problem is in the amount of gain the gyro is sensing. On one page its says to enable the gyro and set a value at position 0 or 1. It shows the starting value at 50% for both. Then, under Adjustable Travel section, it says the gryo channel 5 can be adjusted for amount of travel. Which is it, spits or swallows? Which adjustments limit amount of movement?

Ok, have you tried to limit the ATV on channel 5 to about 60% or less.

The gyro has no gain at 50% setting. At either 100 or 0 it is in either 100% Heading hold mode, or 100% rate mode. It sounds like you're at one end or the other, and not closer to the middle when you try changing the gyro values.

Hook a servo to channel 5 and see what you get with the changes.

Have you seen finless Bobs gyro setup movie?

It also mentions F.mode or inhibit. In this mode, the gyro gain setting would correspond to the flight mode switch. Have you checked this setting?

[markind]

Ok I bit the bullet today - I caved - I splurged...

I got the CNC aluminum bits I needed to finish off my Axe, plus I got the Bell-Hiller upgrade kit.

Yep, decided to actually finish this project and get my Axe back into a stable hover and true response on the cyclic.

The tail now - ugh got no clue how to make it work decently yet... With the DD and brushless (with Brake Set On) motor, fed by an independent CC 9A ESC, allows a nice hover but just try to maneuver and the tail swings all over the place...

The other 'bug' in the system is that the motors run too hot. One step at a time though, I'll worry about that once I get my stable hover back.

More to come...

PS: doing great with my TREX 450SEV2 - got almost 30 flights now with no crashes and only a couple close calls. Working on figure 8's keeping around 30' up. VERY COOL!!

[Ray K.]

Markind-

I had nothing but trouble with the BL tail motor. Just like you're dealing with, the setup seemed to be adequate for simple hovering but nothing more. I've since gone back to the conventional brushed tail motor and things seem to be much better now. The tail is still a little "swishy" compared to the 'Rex, but it's certainly flyable. Not that I'll be trying any 3D with the Axe, but I have no doubt that it can stand up to sideways flight, simple aerobatics, and maybe even a short tail slide. Any kind of hard piro maneuver is pretty much out of the question though.

As far as the hot motor(s), I guess I'm not sure what the answer is. My Park 370 main motor does get a little warm, but not to the point that I'm losing sleep over it. Others have also commented that they think their motor is getting a little hot, and I'm beginning to wonder if a higher-capacity main motor is in order here. When I made the switch from the 10T pinion up to the 12T, there was a perceivable increase in the motor temperature, and that tells me that a Park 370- or similar- motor is just on the hairy edge of it's limit. I looked into what it would take to upgrade to a Park 400, and for me and my setup, that would mean a new ESC and possibly new batteries. An additional $200 for a beefier motor? I don't think so. My plan now is to keep the FrankenAxe as a solid sport flyer, and focus on making the 'Rex my 3D powerhouse. I am, however, interested in how that Bell-Hiller head works out though- I'm entertaining ideas of doing that too.

Good luck, man, and keep 'em rotor-side up!

-Ray

[C R Mudgeon]

Ray ,
What is the final tail set up that you have? You have the brushed motor, I think you have it mounted backwards and what prop do you have?

[Ray K.]

CR-

Yes, I do have a brushed tail motor, but it's not stock and it's not backwards anymore, either. It's a GWS motor (I can't remember the PN, but I know it's in this thread somewhere), and I'm using a GWS 3.25 x 2 scimitar prop pressed directly onto the motor's output shaft. Of all the combinations that I tried out for the tail, including the stock configuration, I've had the best results with this one.

I'm thinking about doing that belt tail mod though. My only real concerns at this point are that my ACP is getting a little on the porky side, and I fear that the belt mod might make her heavier still. That, and I've already dumped cubic yards of cash into my Axe, and I'm not super-keen on spending more money on it. I'd rather save the money for a Vibe 50 or TRex 600N. On the other hand, I have a TON of OT coming over the next few months at my new job (which I freaking LOVE), so maybe I will re-build the FrankenAxe.... again. Park 400, Phoenix 30 ESC, new and lighter LiPos (I'm thinking 910 mAh's instead of the 1250's I'm using now), B/H head, and the belt tail. I may also do that mod out there for GY240's that supposed to significantly reduce their weight. The problem with all of this is that no matter how many high-performance goodies I put on the Axe, it's still going to suck gorilla balls in the wind because it's so small and light. On days with easy wind, though, it would certainly be one Hell of a little helicopter.... That said, that's one of the things that killed me about being a new pilot with a very small helicopter last Summer. It would be nearly perfect weather- sunny, 80°, but a little too windy to fly the Axe. I probably missed out on nearly half of the good days to fly because of the machine I was flying. That's why I'm so interested in getting into a .50- I'm not a newb pilot anymore, and all I wanna do is FLY! I've probably logged over 200 hours on the sim this winter, but there's nothing like flying the real thing. I had exactly ONE good day to fly this winter, and it was beyond obvious that all that time on the sim has been paying off. I had the 'Rex out after I did a bunch of mods and upgrades to it, and I flew a couple loops, barrel rolls, and Immelmans like it was nothing.

-Ray

[C R Mudgeon]

Thanks for the info Ray,

I'm just into hovering right now I just got into the sport the start of this year. I got the Axe at a LHS and was wanted to use it as a yard bird. Something I can hover and beat up in the back yard. I have a house fly too it's a HoneyBee FP. Something that I can get some stick time on rotten days. Your right about the wind! The Axe is just thrown around by it. I had to fix and upgrade the Axe as I had dumped it into the dirt a few times. Mine has the following upgrades:

Microheli CNC head and swashplate,
Spectrum Reciever,
XMSeller CNC tailbox (http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/the-98/%282%29-rc-helicopter-CNC/Detail),
XMSeller Boom Supports
TREX Bump Proof skids

I Don't recommend the MicroHeli Grips and the bearings are not cheaply available and are a bear to get out, Use the Axe cnc grips with the Microheli cnc head and flybar.

The tail is the last upgrade. I just did not want to fly the tail so much. The tail is just all over the place the standard gyro really stinks.


I'm not going to upgrade any more as it does not make sense.:thumbdown: The freestyle system looks great but when you bend a boom it will be a pain to repair. I think instead of going that way I'll move what I can to a Honey Bee King 2 bare bones kit.

[Edwinssiv]

Well...I got the Gyro working better, but not great, and I went to go fly in a park near my house...I have a welcome mat carpet I have been flying off of and have quite a few flights off it with no problem what so ever...until now. The Axe as it was lifting off moved back just a little and caught the metal tail support in the carpet and it flipped over and broke the CF boom i had on it, the tail rotor and bent the feathering shaft...talk about mad...I was so looking forward to flying out doors with it now that it was set up good. So...today out of frustration I ordered the Helipro Black Hawk 450...I am still waiting on the belt conversion tail to show up and I am sure I will still fly my Axe once I have it all converted...but I am looking forward to having a larger more stable heli to start getting into more advanced flying.

[Edwinssiv]

Yesterday I received my freestyle hobby belt tail upgrade and I finished putting the final touches on it tonight. I just finished flying my first battery on it...
:clappp:banana:happyd:D:rolling
I can hardly believe the difference! OMG! It is awesome! Out of everything I have done to this heli, this upgrade is the absolute best!!!!!
Along with the bell-hiller upgrade, brushless motor and ESC I have an amazing little heli! The tail responds perfectly. The 401 is rock solid...I can now hover in side to side in my rec room with no problems! Because of the lack of space I did not try nose in...just in case.:shock:
Don was awesome to work with and responded to all my questions quickly...
Don :noteworthy
My thanks to you sir! You gave me what I was looking for in the Axe!

[markind]

Well that's a heck of a recommendation - ok I'll buy. Where to order this Belt Mod again?

[markind]

Ok, Ray K.,

We've decided to take my Son of Franken Axe ][ to the mat - it WILL be a good flying model, and failure is not an option!

I got my Bell-Hiller kit coming in tomorrow, and my Belt Mod is on order. Yes if I had a crystal ball way back when I could have got to this destination a lot cheaper, but oh well... just another few hundred hobby bux cast to the winds...

Besides I am still having so much fun with my TREX - its a blast to fly and hopefully won't need repairs anytime soon - so I find myself needing another bench project for these rainy days...

[Edwinssiv]

I completely agree Markind...If I knew then what I know now....I would have started out much differently :Slap
And what the heck...it's only money...I mean I don't need to eat...lol
I now am the proud owner of the Grandson of Franken Axe

[Ray K.]

LMAO!!!!

Do we need to make a mongrel-Axe family tree?!?! Maybe I should nickname my ACP "Gramps".

I guess for now, FrankenAxe Sr. is going to remain in it's current configuration. Maybe when I get my "economic stimulus" check in a few weeks I'll do something crazy with it. I already blew most of my disposable money on a new toy....

I am no longer using Reflex XTR. I splurged and went ahead and got RealFlight G4, and I have to say that if your computer can handle it and you're not already using it, GO GET IT! It's hands-down the BEST sim out there right now.

Now, I just have to get my AMA membership paid up and get a new battery pack for my DX7, and I'll be ready to rock this summer! WOO HOO!!!!

-Ray

[Edwinssiv]

When I bought the Axes...I bought the G4. I love it...it was a tremendous help in learning how to hover and orientations...

[markind]

I am no longer using Reflex XTR. I splurged and went ahead and got RealFlight G4,
-Ray


Hmm interesting I thought Reflex had better graphics, but never got to try it...

I got RealFlight G3.5 a year ago and unhappily upgraded to G4. Its not any better than I can tell, other than some rudimentary water physics... Ok so being able to practice with floats is cool, but for another $200? I'd suggest get a cheap or used G3.5 bundle over G4. Also, none of the "Add-Ons" disks will work with G4. Suckage!! Ah well... I am donating my G3.5 to an eminently worthy old friend that can use it (or the cash from selling it).

I also have FSOne and it rocks. The physics seem *much* more realistic to me, but the models available to fly is rather limited. I could add that the extra realism doesn't really translate into being a better training tool, but its nice to experience. You will still learn proper reactions and dealing with orientation with any sim.

[Edwinssiv]

I found if you up the wind to about 5mph....it causes the heli to react more like the real thing :badair: :shock: :rolling

[Ray K.]

Markind...

Of course the add-ons work with G4! I'm using Volumes 2, 3, and 4 with no problems at all. Reflex did indeed have some pretty good graphics, but the physics felt a little off to me. After spending a few days with G4, it's pretty clear that Reflex was allowing me to get away with some bad habits when it comes to stunt flying- particularly with collective management. G4 requires much more precision from the pilot, and despite the cartoon-ey graphics, it "feels" much more realistic. That, and the number of parameters that you can modify on any given model blow XTR out of the water. The biggest reason that I made the switch was the fact that I was nearly constantly having calibration and channel assignment problems with Reflex, and I had it up to my eyeballs with MRC's deplorable customer support- they get a big F- in my book. I was not very pleased with Reflex, and G4 has been pretty impressive so far. It's way more user-friendly too. $200 is indeed a lot of cheese, but when you realize that costs about the same as 4 or 5 crashes, it's not so bad.

A question for all you guys that are using the belt-mod tail.... what are you using for a tail servo, and would you have chosen differently?

-Ray

[Edwinssiv]

Ray,
This was just discussed on the RCG board about the Axe with belt driven tails...
I am using the Hitec HS-50 on my tail...it is quick and lite weight but does not have a lot of torque (Still works fine for me). I chose it because I was watching one of Finless' videos on the HDX 350 build he said it would work on that...so seeing that they are similar in size and weight, I went with it. I have around 6 packs with my tail upgrade so far and the servo is working great. Granted this is only hovering in my rec room so far because our winds have been 25-30mph with gusts up to 50. If anything happens to this servo I will probably go with the Futaba S3114...it is only $14 and has alot more torque than the HS 50 with the similar speed rating...but for now I am very happy

[markind]

Markind...

Of course the add-ons work with G4! I'm using Volumes 2, 3, and 4 with no problems at all.
-Ray

Ray! What's the trick?! I tried installing and re-installing, but the Add-Ons aircraft do not show up on the list...

The Expansions 1 and 2 are working for me, but none of the Add-Ons... I have un-installed G3.5... Guess I gotta call tech supp...

[markind]

Ok, I think maybe some of you are using some CnC aluminum bits in the Axe CP rotor head.

Its all fine for me except where the See-Saw screws into the small square slider-block.

It is a mechanical goof-up! If you tighten the screws, you got a immobilized See-Saw! No worky!!

If you loosen the screws so that the See-Saw is floppy like it should be, fine but then the screws come out immediately after just seconds of operation in the heli!!

So you think, "just add locktite". Arg!! Any locktite getting in between the See-Saw and the block makes it sticky - again No Worky!! Even so, one of the two screws will twist out despite the locktite - locktite only works on screws that are tightened down - not loose like this...

If that See-Saw cannot tilt freely - you got crap for control of your heli.

I can only think they made this thing "wrong" somehow, or I am missing something, or there is a trick to it...

Help anyone? Are you using just one of the two screws on the See-Saw, or both? How did you get it to work?

[Edwinssiv]

Mark,
What brand are you using? I have Microheli's and the have bearings and I have used locktite on it as well with no problems.

[markind]

Mark,
What brand are you using? I have Microheli's and the have bearings and I have used locktite on it as well with no problems.

I'm using this one:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNWN2&P=7


I guess I should call their Tech supp... :(

My feeling is that the screw needs to be specially made for this part. The screws should be threaded only on the tip and the non-threaded length should be just enough to allow free swinging of the See-Saw... but...

Those screws are just normal screws threaded all the way down... I can't see how it can work like that... :\


Edit: I see this part:

http://www.microheli.com/mhshop/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=10&products_id=446

is a much better deal. It replaces two different Tower CnC parts priced at almost 80 bux... yikes...

[Edwinssiv]

Yea Mark...the micorheli parts are pretty darn good at a much better price.
Plus from what youare saying...they are built better as well.

[Ray K.]

Markind-

I guess I misunderstood the difference between the Add-Ons and the Expansions.... I can't say if the Add-Ons work or not, but the Expansions certainly do. Sorry 'bout getting you all fired up over nothing...

As far as the metal head parts, my only real opinion is that the HMX aluminum head parts are junk. I'm still using the HMX flybar cage because that seems to be a good piece, but all of the other HMX head bits that I've tried are crap. I totally agree with Edwin- MicroHeli makes some really nice stuff. I have a MH swashplate, and it's been great. I'm still using stock parts for the mainblock, the seesaw, the slider, and grips though. I tried using the "upgrade" HMX slider and seesaw, and they definitely won't work with the plastic mainblock. And what's worse, when you do get the aluminum mainblock, there's so much freeplay between the slider and the block that you actually lose cyclic precision... that's why I went back to the plastic parts- they work better. If you're Hell-bent on having an aluminum head, don't screw around with the HMX garbage- just go right for the MH stuff.

-Ray

[C R Mudgeon]

What is a second source for batteries that you guys are using? The Electroflite batteries got recalled. I wanted to get a couple of other LiPos