Axe CP separations and setup journal

[JEB123]

Dude, that Twinstar rocks! My buddy has dual brushless somethings in there, and that bird can take off directly from the grass effortlessly!! Zoom!! Plus it looks BIG in the air, is very stable, has excellent flight character and can glide great with its low weight and big wing area. You can even catch thermals to a surprising degree.

And it has incredible surviveability. Its fuselage is ridiculously tough. And yes, that sound it makes - awesome. Unlimited vertical too, with that setup.

I noticed Tower carries Multiplex. Is there anyone else?

[JEB123]

You learn to ANTICIPATE the cyclic - you really CAN, with practice, know a moment ahead of time what you need to do to maintain a steady hover or slow maneuver.

Focus on guessing ahead of time what the heli wants you to do to it, and be on the correction a hair BEFORE it really needs it. Its a Jedi trait.

You'll find yourself inputting less control and getting a more stable hover, and you can hover within a smaller area without drifting out.

Its easier with the 'Rex - because the Axe CP is 'softer' you will have to anticpate more and the inputs you give need to be 'more analog', if you get my drift. It can be done. With the 'Rex, I can kind of 'tap' at the cyclic and she is very obdient and can hover hands free for couple seconds.

Thread far from dead! I still have yet to install my Plastic Bell Hiller kit (from the V3 Axe CP) on my bird, and that should tighten up the hover quite a bit. Plus I have lots of DX7 settings to fine tune...

I can hover all four points well, my tail-in and nose-in are rock solid, hands off. My problem was moving from point A to point B without drifting off to one side, but I made a big advancement last night after about an hour of concentrating on full inside eights. I noticed you have to really hold back the cyclic stick a lot to slow it down and keep it from getting away from you. One thing that helped me a lot to do the inside eights was setting my rudder trim about halfway to one side and trying to hold a hover over the same exact spot. Then move the trim to the other side and do the same. Increase the amount of trim as you go. Try it. It's a bi*ch, but what a killer progress exercise! It's awesome for orientation practice.

[krefi]

I think by now most of us with a V2 Axe are poised to graduate (if we haven't already) to bigger better aircraft (no offense intended). So perhaps the life-cycle of V2 owners is winding down. I wonder the release of Axe V3 will be successful in generating a new batch of interested owners and spark renewed discussion. I'm sure I'll keep poking my head in to gather bits of info. While my Axe has been kept strictly stock (unless you count a knitting needle as an upgrade) - I may have to eat my words, as the recent need to replace a dying tail motor had encouraged me to try the GWS motor w/ direct drive prop, hopefully to go on this weekend.

[Ray K.]

I think it will, krefi.

While the original ACP was somewhat less than great out of the box, and was what started this thread, I'm sure that the V3 will still have owners that are looking for more.

The V3 will still be a good candidate for separations, as the 3-in-1 is still a less-than-perfect unit that is prone to failure. And there's still no stand-alone gyro on the V3, which is easily one of the best Axe mods out there. Really, when you look at it closely, a V3 is merely a V2 with a B/H head and a DD tail. Most Axe owners swap up to LiPo power in pretty short order, and I don't think I'd even call that an upgrade- more like a necessity, and again, HeliMax nailed that with the V2. If I were to put the B/H head on my ACP, it would pretty much be a V3 with a fancy motor and a proper gyro.

So in the end, I feel that there's still going to be people that want to modify their V3s, and there will be no shortage of discussion to be had. It's almost as if HMX has been reading this thread also, and has been following what we've been doing to improve our ACPs. With any luck, the release of the V3 will spark a whole new generation of ACPs and what can be done with them. If HMX came out with a pre-separated Axe (meaning 2 ESCs and a gyro) and tossed in a brushless main motor, then the thread might die. I don't think that'll happen any time soon, though....

-Ray

[Ray K.]

I thought of another thing about ACPs that hasn't really been addressed by us, HMX, or the aftermarket in general.

There is no way to tune the flybar! I mean, you could be stupid and drop the $50 on the HMX carbon paddles, but I really don't think that they would be that much lighter than the stock plastic paddles. Surely they have a different shape, but again, I don't know if they would be different enough to matter. There's no options out there for alternate-length flybars, either. I think of the difference that the longer flybar made on my 'Rex, and it would be nice to do the same with an Axe. I already looked at Blade CPP flybars, and they're identical to Axe flybars. Maybe we could make them? I've had very limited success in the past with trying to run a die over wire that thin, but that's what would have to happen.

Any ideas?

-Ray

[Edwinssiv]

So with the longer fly bar, what is it you are trying to accomplish? Better cyclic control? Because the bell hiller adds that...plus they add larger weights to help slow it down some. But someone said that it does not do inverted very well with the weights at the ends, it works great with the weights there but I moved mine in to the middle and the response was fantastic. It acted more like the sim did. Alas, I have never tried flips or anything with the Axe...I was always concerned with the slow response...when I was ready to try it...I crashed and I have still to get it flying again.

[Ray K.]

Well, imagine this-

Of course the BH head will improve cyclic control, but tuning the flybar will change the feel of that control. A longer flybar has the effect of adding flybar input authority, without really adding gyroscopic stability (like the weights do). All at the same time, it won't do anything to hurt that stability either. It's always seemed to me that *adding* weight to anything that moves is not an ideal solution. So the net result should be that the cyclic will be more lively (like with the weights in or removed), but you'll be removing mass from the rotating assembly which will save power and improve the head system's response because it will have less inertia to overcome.

I'm doing a pretty crappy job of explaining it here, but there was a really great article in RC Heli a couple months ago all about it. For those of us that still have the straight-up Hiller head, flybar tuning will have even more influence on the handling of the bird. Of course there's no replacement for direct swash-to-blade pitch input, but there's much to be said for flybar tuning. Like I said before, I think about the effect that it had on the 'Rex, and I think that it's just what the doctor ordered for the Axe. The cyclic is definitely "hotter", but it's still just as stable around center. The cyclic feels cleaner and more direct, and when extreme cyclic inputs are given it has a very "right now" feel to it.

Paddles have much to do with it too. The weight of the paddle matters the same way that having extra weight on the flybar matters. The shape of the paddle is important too- a paddle with a sharp leading edge will be somewhat crisper than a blunt one, and the aspect ratio of the paddle is important too. Since the stock ACP paddles are already very light and have a razor-sharp leading edge, they're just about as "extreme" as they could be- and that's why I'm looking into flybar length now.

I'm willing to bet that regardless of the head that one is using on their ACP, flybar length will still be a worthwhile tuning consideration. I think I just need to shut up and get the BH head, and then start playing around with the flybar. Like I keep saying, I firmly believe that there's more performance to be had, and this might be the next thing that takes the little ACP up a notch....

-Ray

[Edwinssiv]

I am going to measure the fly bar width...I have other flybars lying around and I wonder if they will fit...
If you want you can check out my Mars build slide show at this thread.
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=732086&postcount=1

[JEB123]

Nice goin' Ed. Nice bird, nice flying field you lucky stiff!

[markind]

Dude, you rock!

Your hobby rocks, your Mars build rocks, and your slideshow rocks!

Rock on! (I like the African Grey too - my mom has one "Kumu" and I have Nanday Conure "Bobby Redsocks")


In other news,

I finally opened up the Plastic Bell Hiller Mod. Install will start soon...


Only 15 bux but looks fragile. Please don't crash after installing!!! :D

[Ray K.]

Mark-

Where did you get that conversion kit from??? I've been looking for exactly what you've got there, and haven't been having much success...

Anyway, I had an idea at work tonight, and I wanted to run it by you guys....

I've been stewing on how to tackle this flybar length thing, and it hit me like a ton of bricks. I don't think that this idea would work very well if you're using the stock plastic ACP flybar cage, but if you've got either the MH or HMX aluminum cage it might just work....

Why not just cut the flybar in half (with a very high degree of precision, that is), and then have a flybar that can be extended to a custom length? I mean, do you really have to have a solid flybar that runs continuously from end-to-end? This is why I'm thinking that it might not be such a great idea with the plastic cage, as it doesn't offer very good support at the clamping points. But with either of the aluminum cages, I think that there's enough meat there where the flybar gets pinned down to provide adequate support to the flybar. My calibrated eyeballs say that there should be about 15mm of length FOR EACH SIDE to be gained from doing so.... so what if the flybar doesn't pass through the shoulder block? As long as the flybar halves are adequately supported and the flybar cage is stiff enough, that material that runs through the center shouldn't matter, right?

Am I onto something, or is this a horrible idea? What do you guys think? I would be a FREE mod, and if it has the effect that I think it should...

-Ray

[markind]

Ray I got that from Tower. May start dabbling with the mod tonight but we just got a new big LCD HDTV and a Blu-Ray player so we may be watching movies tonight...

[JEB123]

Hi guys, hope ya'll are doin well, it's been a while, but I don't wanna tie up the ACP forum since my Axe is gone. I just had to let you know that I'm finally making progress flying and to let some others in on some awesome exercises that'll put you in much better control of your heli, no matter what level you fly at. I hadn't fired up the bird in about three weeks, I was working on a theory. I figured for one exercise I would hit the sim, and just push my rudder trim about halfway to the left and do slow piros trying to hover over one spot. Then move the trim to the right and repeat until I could hold it steady. Increase the amount you move the trim each time. A lot harder than it sounds! Then almost like figure eights, I would lift off and hover tail in, turn the nose right and VERY SLOWLY follow a runway about thirty yards to my right, stop and hover there, then swing the tail around and forward fly VERY slowly past myself and another thirty yards or so to the left, stop, hover there, swing the tail around and keep doing that, as SLOWLY AND CONTROLLED as possible, trying to keep the heli in the middle of the runway. Well, what a great training tool, today after work I fired up the heli and lo and behold, I was doing slow circuits, about 1 foot off the ground while feeling very much in control! Every orientation felt confident even bringing the heli to a stop nose in and landing right in front of me! Nose in! What a thrill! I've got it! I can't stress enough to do these exercises on the sim very slowly, you 'll train yourself to have great control of the bird in every orientation. Try it, you'll remember me. Don't touch your heli for a few days, maybe a week, even better, just hit the sim every night for a couple of hours and watch the difference when you take off!
NOW I love this hobby! Since I'll be flying mostly scale, I'm going to concentrate on precision hovering and flying. :happyd:YeaBaby:

[Ray K.]

Jeb-

Indeed, practice makes perfect! I have my own slow-and-steady regimen that I like to practice that involves hovering in all upright orientations, but I don't do your rudder trim trick. I tend to favor jacking up the wind to obnoxious levels on the sim, and then practice stationary hovering. For flight drills, I pretty much just fly "balls out" freestyle 3D, and actually TRY to mess up my orientation. It's a slow process, but I've discovered that there's almost no orientation that I can't recover from now, and I think that's half the battle. I'd say that my sim time is divided into 3 segments- hover and orientation practice for about 15 minutes, "normal" flight and aerobatics for 20 minutes, and then I like to move on to trying new 3D and experimenting with new maneuvers for a good half-hour or so. After I'm done screwing around, I'll wrap up the session with more hover and orientation practice for 10 or 15 minutes. I suppose everyone has something that works for them, and learning new training tips from others is always a good idea!

So onto the flybar....

I'm an idiot. I totally forgot about the seesaw! In the words of Carlos Mencia- "Dee de deeee!" In an attempt to redeem myself, I have a fix for it. It dawned on me that the flybar must pass through the seesaw in order to keep it in sync with the flybar cage. The mod that I was imagining would not support the seesaw very well, if at all. So this is what I came up with...

Instead of using just one flybar and cutting in half, and potentially compromising the seesaw, use two flybars cut to equal length. I know, I know... it won't be a free mod anymore, but flybars are pretty cheap. If you were to take 2 flybars and cut them to equal length such that they would each be 10 or 15mm longer from center than the stock bar, you would still get the benefit of a longer bar, and it wouldn't bother the seesaw either. See my drawing below...

I tried a longer bar on an ACP with the sim, and the results were pretty encouraging. Don't misunderstand- it's not the best way to make a Hiller head act like a Bell/Hiller head, but it's an improvement, and it would still be a useful tuning tool for a B/H head. In the coming weeks, I'm going to try it on the real thing, and see how it goes. Looks like I'll be ordering the B/H conversion kit and 3 or 4 flybars! I'm cautiously optimistic...

-Ray

[JEB123]

Cool, I'm gonna try your "forced orientation mess up" method. Sounds like a good one.

[twismz]

Thats awesome that ur mods are working great! My mods are killin me. I just did the rotor blade CNC upgrade and the CNC swashplate but the swashplate separates just before lift off. any ideas??? do I need more CNC parts to make this work or just got a bad swashplate or maybe need a spacer between the swashplate and main rotor gear???

[Ray K.]

I had HORRIBLE luck with the HMX CNC swashplates. I had two of them: one totally locked up it's center ball, and the other separated on it's 5th or so flight. I was not pleased!

There shouldn't be any other parts that you need to make a new swash work. If I were you, I'd just cut to the chase and get the MicroHeli swash- it's a much better piece, and it's been totally trouble-free for me for dozens and dozens of flights. Avoid HMX "upgrade" CNC parts like the plague- they're no good at all!

-Ray

[daufhammer]

Question for Ray K,

I have been flying an Axe CP for about 6 months now and am really loving it. Im wanting to upgrade my Axe because some of the stock parts are wearing out like my motors and i have some broken parts right now too. So i think its time to upgrade.

1st question. Have you tried the new Axe V3 DD tail yet? I heard all you have to do is buy the new tail motor mount and the new prop and you're good to go.

2nd and more important.... Im going to be upgrading to separations and am going to get the GY 240 gyro and a C-7 for the Tail. Have you had any problems with the C-7? HeliMax recommends the C-12. Then im going to be going brushless for my main motor also and was looking at the Electrifly Ammo 28-35-3900kV Motor (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-ammo-28-35.html). I know you run a E-Flight Park 370... I want to place one order from TowerHobbies and they don't sell the Park 370. Do you think the Ammo motor i was looking at would be a good replacement? If not which Ammo would you say would be the best replacement? I was going to go with a 10T pinion, but wanted your input. Do you have any formulas that you use to calculate all this stuff? That could be handy. Also I will probably use the Electrifly SS-45A Brushless ESC. (Im also just sticking with the Stock Radio for now, that will be a future upgrade)

Any other recommendations for upgrading to separations after you have done it.

Thanks,
Drew

[Ray K.]

Drew... some very good questions!

For your first question, I guess my answer is "sort of." I haven't actually used the exact parts that come with the ACPV3 for the DD tail, but I feel that the motor and prop that I'm using at the moment are probably very close to what comes with the V3. As far as retrofitting actual V3 parts onto a V1 or V2, you've got it right- all that should be required is to use the appropriate motor mount and prop (and a little soldering, of course). The only point of concern that I've got is that the tail motor on the V1 and V2 has the pinion gear pressed onto the motor output shaft, and it's likely that you'll narf up the shaft if you try to remove that pinion. Instead of burning $25 on the official HMX V3 tail motor, just get one of the GWS units that I've been using- they only cost about $10 (part number GWS EDP-50XC @ www.allerc.com), and the one that I'm on now has lasted easily 3x longer than any HMX tail motor I used.... I'm still on the original motor, in fact.

For your second question... the C-7 has performed flawlessly for me, and I have no reason to recommend anything different. For your main motor, your choice appears to be a good one. The only things that I can't really comment on at the moment are whether or not the mounting screw spacing is appropriate (it probably is), and if the pinion will correctly mesh with the main gear. Truth be told, that's really the reason that I went with the Park 370- I knew for a fact that E-Flite pinions mesh perfectly with the ACP main gear. Seeing as HeliMax and Great Planes / ElectriFly are all the same company, I would be compelled to think that the ElectriFly pinion would be okay. Please DO NOT take my word as gospel... it's only a hunch. And the GY240 has proven to be an adequate gyro, too.

So now for the math.... It's actually pretty easy. You didn't say if you were going to go LiPo or not (which is on my short list of best ACP mods), or if you already have LiPo, but it goes like this:

Battery Voltage (V) x Kv rating = Motor RPM (RPMm)

RPMm / Gear Ratio = Calculated Headspeed (in RPM)

Calculated Headspeed x 0.85 (to allow for motor efficiency, geartrain losses, etc.) = pretty darn close to actual headspeed.

Now for your ACP cheat sheet: 1) the main gear has 180 teeth, and 2) anywhere from 2600 to 3000 RPM makes for pretty lively performance on an ACP.

So in your case, and assuming that you're running LiPo (if not, you should SERIOUSLY consider doing it!), your formula would look like this:

11.1 (volts from the battery) x 3900 (motor Kv) = 43290

43290 / 18 (that's 180 divided by 10 teeth on the pinion) = 2405

2405 x 0.85 = 2044.25 real-world head RPM.... that's not enough. It'll be even worse if you're using the stock NiMH battery pack. Is there a 13 or 14 tooth pinion available? I would do that. A 14T pinion will put you at about 2850 RPM on the head, which is more like it. If you can't get a pinion with that many teeth, get the 5100 Kv version of the motor you're looking at and use a 10T or 11T pinion.

As far as other separation mods, I guess my "Top 5 Mods" are as follows (after you've got a good gyro and tail setup):

1) LiPo!!!!!
2) Use a real programmable computer radio- like a DX7, Futaba FASST, or similar
3) Brushless main power system that will provide 2600-3000 RPM on the head... 240 Watts or better on the motor
4) Convert your swash links to proper ball-and-socket links (Z-bends are 90% of the reason stock ACPs are so difficult to hover)
5) MicroHeli swashplate and head parts (although the stock plastic blade grips are the way to go)

So, I hope I was helpful, and please let me know if I left anything out!

Good luck, man! Let me know how you do!

-Ray

[markind]

Hi Ray K!

I will *soon* get to my Bell Hiller mod install (so many other projects bumping it!) but I wanted to ask you about the 'proper ball links'.

Offhand it seems a little tricky because the HS-55 is so small. I double checked my z-bends and they appear snug, so I don't think I was ever fighting that much slop.

Can you post a close up pic of how you installed the ball links? Thanks bro!!

~mArK

[Von]

Hi Guys,

I've been following this thread for a while and am about to go full brushed separates, GY240, and the bell-hiller mod in the next few days. Since I read discussions about ball link additions I decided to contribute my experiences. As the photo below shows, about 3 mos. ago, I replaced the Tx, Rx, and Sxs with the Spectrum DX7/AR6100/DS285 heli-combo. At the same time I added the ball links pictured here...
http://image2-1.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/upfiles/399558/Tr49401.jpg

I used some old DuBro ones I had from my GMP Cricket days. (They're possibly 25 yrs. old and I'm not even sure if they are still available!) This has allowed me to "learn" the DX7 programming and ELIMINATED all the jumping I was experiencing. This jumping really destroyed my confidence BTW. I'll be the first to admit this is not a perfect implementation/installation since the aileron and pitch control rods do lean or tilt away from the body as they meet the servo arms. But the control rods are [still] vertical and the tilt angle is the same (but opposite) on both sides. (The elevator control rod is uneffected.) I'm not sure how this [truly] effects the swash motion but it does not VISUALLY appear to add any lateral, side, twisting or other undesireable motion to the swash. Plus, being a new heli enthusiast, I might not be able to tell anyways! I will say that since this mod there is virtually no slop in the swash as determined by trying to move the swash with the anti-rotation pin. Before this mod I could move the swash around a bit (+/- 1/32") with the pin. I have learned from you guys and will post a photo or two once I have completed the full separates/bell-hiller mods.
Thanks... Von

[daufhammer]

Thanks Rey K!

Yeah i am using Li-Po's... I had 3 of the Electrifly 950mah ones that originally came with the Axe, but they did that recall, so now i have 3 brand new 910mah's.

When i switch to a brushless motor will i need to get some Li-Po's with a higher mAh or will my current 910's work ok? I know that a 910 will have a shorter flight time than say a 1200mAh pack, but will my flight times be any shorter after switching to a brushless motor but keeping the same batteries?

Thanks,
Drew

[Ray K.]

Hey everyone....

I have to keep this short because I have to be back at work in only about 5 hours, so I can't really get into any kind of detailed answers right now... but I PROMISE that I will as soon as I get home tomorrow!

But just as a teaser-

Mark-

Converting to ball links is pretty easy, but it kind of goofs up the link geometry, and I wouldn't try it unless you've got a computer radio with adjustable endpoints. I'll go into more detail about this tomorrow... but for now, I found that at least on my ACP as it was out of the box, there was WAY too much freeplay between the link and the servo horn.... we're talking at least 1/16". It made it so that the heli would never center up, and I was constantly chasing a smooth and level hover. Now that I think about it a little, I actually have 2 solutions that I'll share tomorrow....

Drew-

The LiPos that you've got now should be more than adequate. What's more important than the mAh rating is the "C" rating- how much discharge (in Amps) the batteries can take without damage. Your flight times will not suffer when you go brushless. In fact, quite the opposite! For a given output, brushless motors are far more efficient than brushed motors. I'll explain all this stuff tomorrow, and I'll give you a formula for determining how much motor your LiPos can safely handle, too.

Von-

Nice job on the links, man! Looks like you ran into some of the same geometry problems I was having, but I'm sure you also understand what I was saying about the EPA thing... nice work!

Hang in there, gentlemen, and I will talk to you tomorrow!

-Ray

[Ray K.]

Okay guys, here you go!

Ball Link Conversion:

As I mentioned in my previous post, I found that on my ACP as it was out of the box that there was excessive freeplay between the z-bend and the servo horn. I'm under the impression that it's not this way for everyone, and mine might have even been an isolated case. At any rate, it was causing so much collective/cyclic interaction that the heli was nearly impossible to hover- it wouldn't center up at all, and it took some pretty extreme (for hovering, at least) stick deflection on the radio to keep the heli from taking off in an unexpected direction.

The way that I had initially fixed the problem was to just go out and get some new servo horns that didn't have the holes for the bends all reamed out already. I was able to carefully size-up the holes on the new horns so that they fit the links much tighter, but not so tight that they would bind. This was actually a rather satisfactory solution, but I still wanted to tighten it up a little. If you shoot over to page 19 of this thread, you'll find the write-up of what I did to take it up a notch. I used some TRex parts that should be available at any LHS worth their salt, and it didn't cost much at all to do it.

A word of caution when doing this mod, though: depending on the servos that you're using, you're going to have varying degrees of goofed-up link geometry. I got lucky with the way that I did it, and my links were pretty close to parallel with the mainshaft, which is the ideal situation. Check out Finless Bob's videos on CCPM setup for a very in-depth tutorial on how it all works. In a nutshell, you want your mechanical setup to be as close to perfect as you can get it before you start making changes on your radio. If you don't have a computer radio yet, I imagine that you could probably play games with shimming the servos away from they fuse with some small, thin washers and be able to get good results. The idea here is to shim the servos so that the link will be as close to perfectly parallel with the mainshaft as you can get them. If you have a computer radio, it becomes slightly less of a concern because minor interaction problems can be dialed out by using the end-point adjustments. Again, Finless does a way better job of explaining it than I can, so refer to his GREAT videos on how to set up CCPM- it'll be helpful even if you don't have a computer radio!

Brushless motors and LiPos:

Like I stated on the last post, brushless motors are way more efficient than conventional brushed motors for a given amount of output. When I stepped up to BL power, I immediately noticed an increase in my flight duration, and a pretty healthy increase at that. So there's two ways to go here- you can get a BL motor with similar power as the stock motor and enjoy much longer flight times (boring), or you can get a BL motor that's going to put similar demand on your power system and give you substantially more power and less overall weight (fun). When I chose the Park 370, I did so knowing that it was going to make for a pretty nice blend of these two characteristics.

I've already shown you how to calculate the headspeed for a candidate motor, but now I'll give you the formula for how to determine how much discharge your battery can safely handle...

Take the "C" rating on your battery (it should be printed right on the label), and multiply that by the capacity (mAh) of the battery. So in your case, Drew, I believe that your LiPos are rated at 15C (check that, though, I don't know for sure!), and they have 910 mAh. So 15 x 910 = 13650 = 13.65 Amps of safe continuous discharge. At this point, subtract about 1.5A for the servos and gyro, and another 2A or so for the tail motor. That leaves you with just over 10A that can go to the motor, and every motor that I've looked at on the web has it's Amp draw numbers posted. Knowing how much power the motor pulls from the battery is pretty important because then you know how much battery you need, and how much ESC capacity you need. In the case of the Park 370, it has a continuous draw of 8A, fitting into your 10A capacity nicely. Pretty easy, huh?

The "C" rating is how hard you can pull on the batteries before cooking them (more C is better), and the mAh rating is how much capacity the battery holds, which usually translates to flight duration.

Hope this helps, guys, and let me know if there's anything else I can do for you!

Now it's a beautiful day and I've got to go get my fly on....

-Ray

[daufhammer]

Thanks Ray!

I really appreciate your detailed write ups! They are really helpful. I will let you know how things go with my Axe as i go to seperations.

-Drew