Axe CP separations and setup journal

[markind]

Hi Guys,

... I'll be the first to admit this is not a perfect implementation/installation since the aileron and pitch control rods do lean or tilt away from the body as they meet the servo arms. But the control rods are [still] vertical and the tilt angle is the same (but opposite) on both sides. (The elevator control rod is uneffected.) I'm not sure how this [truly] effects the swash motion but it does not VISUALLY appear to add any lateral, side, twisting or other undesireable motion to the swash. Plus, being a new heli enthusiast, I might not be able to tell anyways! Thanks... Von


Yes I think its more critical to get the rods vertical rather than parallel.

Yes it probably adds some minor "Adverse Cyclic Interaction" and YES with our skill levels and given the limits of the model, we almost certainly could not tell the difference anyway.

My Z-bends are snug so I'll stay here for now - no problems with 'hopping' as described. Just need to get past my other projects and get my BH kit installed awwww crimeny

[Ray K.]

A small point of clarification...

When I was saying that the links should be "parallel" to the mainshaft, that was meant to imply that they would also be vertical. I chose to say parallel because then the links remain straight relative to the helicopter, and not gravity. Also, by saying parallel that would also mean that the link would line up in the X and Y axis, and share it's Z axis with the mainshaft, which is what is going to most effect the swashplate. That's all... just a minor technicality.

No worries! We're all on the same page!

-Ray

[JEB123]

A small point of clarification...

When I was saying that the links should be "parallel" to the mainshaft, that was meant to imply that they would also be vertical. I chose to say parallel because then the links remain straight relative to the helicopter, and not gravity. Also, by saying parallel that would also mean that the link would line up in the X and Y axis, and share it's Z axis with the mainshaft, which is what is going to most effect the swashplate. That's all... just a minor technicality.

No worries! We're all on the same page!

-Ray

How about perpendicular to the blades?! Covers all the angles! Hi guys! Hope you are all well here in Axeville! :)

[Ray K.]

Well, the FrankenAxe ate itself again the other day.

It was a long and very successful day of flying on Sunday, and the FrankenAxe managed to surprise me again. Except this time it was bad....

It was a little breezy all day, so I was flying the 'Rex until the wind calmed down enough to actually enjoy flying the Axe. It was dusk, but no so dark that I couldn't squeeze in one more flight. The wind had dropped to near zero, and the Axe was looking lonely, so I decided to take her up for a spin. It was like putting on an old pair of shoes, the way it felt going through the tail motor arming sequence... I have to admit that I was pretty excited to fly the Axe again after a couple weeks!

I was spooling up the head and was just getting light on the skids when BANG!- BOTH blades let go and flew off into the sunset. The heli tipped and mangled the flybar, but that's all that happened. I went out to pick up my garbage, and upon inspection of the blades I found something very curious- both blades failed at the root, with the blade bolts cutting clean through the balsa.

I've never seen this before!

I guess I'm lucky that this didn't happen mid-flight, but it raises some concerns. Is it possible that my headspeed is too high for wood blades? Maybe it's the fact that the ACP spends most of it's time in a relatively dry air-conditioned room and the wood became a little too dry. Who knows....

Bottom line is this- all of you guys that are out there modifying your ACPs, please take note that this is absolutely a failure mode that can easily happen! I guess that if you're going to run pretty high headspeeds, CF blades are a safe bet. I know that they're expensive, but what if the helicopter got airborne and then failed and hit your car, or worse yet, a person? Makes it pretty easy to justify a few bucks for some stronger blades....

Just thought I'd share this with you guys... I seem to have found the mechanical limits of wood ACP blades!

-Ray

[JEB123]

Just thought I'd share this with you guys... I seem to have found the mechanical limits of wood ACP blades!
-Ray

Hi Ray! What a trip. Sorry about FA, glad it wasn't too bad. It definitely sounds like you crossed the headspeed borderline for both blades to fly off evenly like that! Those blades always scared me without any inserts or other support to prevent just what happened to you. Imagine hovering at eye level and...nah, better not to hover at eye level at all. Man, it seems everyday I want to spool up further and further away from myself! Probably a good habit. Take care buddy! :thumbup:

[Ray K.]

Well, kids....

Mr. Ray is going to IRCHA tomorrow!

I'm going to rebuild the ACP over the next couple of weeks, and I'm going to try out the extended flybar thing. I'll let you know how it works out....

Later!

Ray

[PilotLight]

Question for Ray K,

I have been flying an Axe CP for about 6 months now and am really loving it. Im wanting to upgrade my Axe because some of the stock parts are wearing out like my motors and i have some broken parts right now too. So i think its time to upgrade.

1st question. Have you tried the new Axe V3 DD tail yet? I heard all you have to do is buy the new tail motor mount and the new prop and you're good to go.

2nd and more important.... Im going to be upgrading to separations and am going to get the GY 240 gyro and a C-7 for the Tail. Have you had any problems with the C-7? HeliMax recommends the C-12. Then im going to be going brushless for my main motor also and was looking at the Electrifly Ammo 28-35-3900kV Motor (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-ammo-28-35.html). I know you run a E-Flight Park 370... I want to place one order from TowerHobbies and they don't sell the Park 370. Do you think the Ammo motor i was looking at would be a good replacement? If not which Ammo would you say would be the best replacement? I was going to go with a 10T pinion, but wanted your input. Do you have any formulas that you use to calculate all this stuff? That could be handy. Also I will probably use the Electrifly SS-45A Brushless ESC. (Im also just sticking with the Stock Radio for now, that will be a future upgrade)

Any other recommendations for upgrading to separations after you have done it.

Thanks,
Drew


Here's a great calculator:
http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/calc.htm

Just change the battery to almost full (11.7volts) and the number of teeth on the main gear to 180. Then select your motor kV. Change the pinion tooth count to get the rotor speed you want. The motor efficiency starts at 90%, which is close, or you can use your actual motor specs.

My personal experience: I'm using a HDX450 3200kV motor and a 16 tooth pinion with a 25 amp ESC. This is about a 2995 RPM head speed. I really think its too much. I only get about 7 minute flight times and the motor and battery are hot at the end of the flight. If I can find a 14 tooth pinion with a 3.17 mm opening, I'll try that. Should be a 2600 RPM head speed and longer, cooler, flights.

Secondly, I'm using a 10 gram brushless outrunner motor with a 4530 GWS prop for the tail through a Eflite G90 HH gyro with excellent results. Lots of tail holding power.

Ray, you've got lots of great advice on here, keep up the good work.

[AceTheAxe]

Blue microheli swashplate, microheli sesaw and flybar cage, microheli head, purple helimax bellhiller blade grip for sale. Barely used just put ca on balllink. With almost new yellow training plasti blade for $120.00.

[krefi]

Hi guys, I've decided to sell off my Axe CP for parts, if anyone is looking for any. All plastic stuff, no bling. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954477