View Full Version : Build & repair videos 600 Nitro & E - by Mercuriell
Mercuriell
06-29-2007, 04:59 AM
Yes put Loctite on all metal to metal threads - after cleaning oil off if necessary. For load bearing self tappers into plastic I would use CA as there is rumour Loctite rots plastic though haven't seen it myself. For non-load bearing eg fan shrouding I'm not convinced any locking compund is necessary.
benzmaster
06-29-2007, 05:05 AM
my local shop told me that green loctite rots plastic, but blue does not. they put blue loctite everywhere.
Bobbyk
07-04-2007, 03:24 PM
Thanks for taking time out in creating these very informative vids, they are of great help to me and I'm sure other will agree with me....
Keep up the good work!
Thanks again John.
Robert
Test005
07-04-2007, 05:49 PM
These videos are great Mercuriell. Thanks for sharing.
I'm new to this forum, and one reason I signed up was to get access to the build videos of the 600N.
EddieNewYork
07-13-2007, 06:58 PM
Thanks for the vids John!
And, what is an External BEC Glow Driver RCE-B6X (http://www.readyheli.com/HE50H06_External_BEC_RCE_B6X_TREX_600_Align_p/he50h06.htm) used for?
Mercuriell
07-13-2007, 08:12 PM
Its a 2 in one step down regulator - 7.4V in from a 2S lipo and 5.9V out for the radio electrics and 1.5V out for the glowplug when starting the engine - saves having to lug around an extra power source for the glowplus together with adaptor leads etc - it works well and saves stuffing around :)
EddieNewYork
07-13-2007, 08:55 PM
Its a 2 in one step down regulator - 7.4V in from a 2S lipo and 5.9V out for the radio electrics and 1.5V out for the glowplug when starting the engine - saves having to lug around an extra power source for the glowplus together with adaptor leads etc - it works well and saves stuffing around :)
Does this replace a glow starter?
Finless
07-13-2007, 11:13 PM
NO! you still want the step down to 5.2 for the tail servo! Tail servos on a 401 (9253) or the 611 (9256) need the lower voltage for reliability and longivity....
Eddie... welcome to HF! About time you started looking for answers at the place that gives the best answers ;)
Bob
EddieNewYork
07-14-2007, 12:55 AM
Hahahaha, glad to be here Bob and thanks for the warm welcome! :D
Mercuriell
07-14-2007, 07:18 AM
Does this replace a glow starter?
Yes - works very well and doesn't seem to draw much from the lipo to my surprise. Still carry a glow starter as back up though :)
EddieNewYork
07-14-2007, 06:31 PM
Cool, thanks mate.
Mercuriell
09-12-2007, 06:11 PM
Redone the link page (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=36177)and added in beginners tail & gyro setup and also covered crash repair and rebuild rotor assembly - instaallation of metal grips and new feathering shaft included in the latter.
yoadrian
12-02-2007, 06:00 PM
Hey Mercuriell, I don't know if this would be the right place for it but I'm looking for a do and don't on taking apart and cleaning out an OS .50 Hyper. I have never taken one apart and don't want to screw it up any more than I already have. I am still breaking it in and took it out to a site that had just been graded, and it kicked up a huge cloud of red dirt and now I can get the Hyper to turn over. Am I truly buggered or will cleaning it out do any good? Any advice would be appreciated.
Mercuriell
12-03-2007, 04:40 PM
Wayne Brown has written a how-to on OS strip down and bearing change http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=11277 I would think that a break down and clean out would be likely to fix your motor and it's not too hard as long as you're careful
yoadrian
12-07-2007, 10:16 AM
Thanks, I'll check it out. Is it normal to feel resistance when turning the piston over? Is there a rule of thumb on what to look for?
fogger
12-07-2007, 11:10 AM
Excellent job on the gyro setup vid John. I especially liked your method for (at least initially) finding the slider travel center. Use marks on the push rod!? -- Brrilliant! :).
Good on ya for including Nigels' tip for setting up the accel / decel ramping values as well. This should really help some Freaks out.
One thing to add might be the method for setting up the correct servo direction. I know this is covered in other vids and on many threads, but might be a good addition just in case someone is only seeing your vid...
Oh one ?, why did you attach the hh/normal mode to your hold switch, won't that put you into normal mode when you go to do an auto? Might be a bit of a surprise if the heli starts to piro a little on the way down :shock:
-Chris
Mercuriell
12-13-2007, 05:45 AM
Good points Chris ! Put normal mode on the throttle hold as I practice autos using idle up 2 with a 5% flat throttle curve so the ESC doesn't need to reset - use throttle hold for carrying out the heli to the flight line which some argue is best done in gyro normal rather than HH mode (personally I'm not sure it makes much difference!)
fogger
12-13-2007, 12:05 PM
gotcha, that makes sense then :)... I also carry it around in normal mode with TH on, but I used the aux2 channel for the gyro gain switch. So, I just flick it to hh to "boot up" the rx, and then normal to carry out to the flightline. Then three quick clicks back and forth after it's fully spooled up, ending on hh, and I know it's zero'ed and good to go. Always more than one way to skin a puss, right? ;)
-Fog
Mercuriell
12-31-2007, 04:58 AM
Posted quick overview of Rotorworkz 600N CF frames (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=36177)and thoughts on E -> N conversion
Mercuriell
03-04-2008, 05:15 AM
OS 50 bearing change video posted (http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=mercuriell&filename=OS50.wmv)
fogger
03-04-2008, 11:49 AM
Hey John, I've seen piston sleeve's that stuck before and just a little application of heat with your heat gun usually is enough to expand the Aluminium enough to get it right out.
-Chris
Mercuriell
03-04-2008, 04:33 PM
Good tip Chris - the piston liner was quite easy but I sweated over the big end - for those who can't be fussed to watch the video the message is that even a few weeks disuse without after-run oiling can cause enough rust to make disassembly a real PIA
fogger
03-04-2008, 04:55 PM
yea I was surprised to see that much rust in the motor. not good. Wonder if stainless steels are just not strong enough for the crank and piston pin or maybe just too expensive?
Finless
03-21-2008, 05:01 AM
I have replaced every motor I have used up to a OS 91 with stainless bearings. THis includes my planks! They work fine and RUST is gone forever!
Just do it trust me!
Bob
p_lavrentiadis@yahoo.gr
04-08-2008, 12:15 PM
nice videos Thanks!!!!!!