View Full Version : Anti rotation pins on CNC Head
Tarkers
05-25-2007, 06:25 AM
Hi All,
Following a Heli/ground "incident" I decided to swap out my stock plastic head for a Century CNC piece.
Whilst assembling last night, I noticed that the Anti Rotation Pins on the CNC head (that are separate on the CNC head rather than all one piece on the stock plastic item) are thicker than the standard ones and as such do not locate into the slots on the washout assembly.
Has anyone else experience this? If so is it simply a case of drilling out the plastic washout assembly to fit the fatter CNC pins? What would be the implications of doing this?
Or do I have an incorrect sized Anti Rotation Pin block.
TIA
Tarkers
Chris DeSain
05-25-2007, 07:49 AM
Mine was a direct replacement ?
Did they possibly send you a Predator washout guide?
Tarkers
05-25-2007, 09:27 AM
Hi Chris,
I have no idea. :dontknow
The part number is CN2556 CNC M Rotor Hub w/guide 30/50. It came as a set with the main hub.
Some photos below of the size difference.
Finless
05-25-2007, 09:45 PM
Interesting... Mine were a DIRECT replacement and I had no trouble like this.
Well I suppose you could do one of 2 things... One contact Century or two break out a file and widen the washout slots...
Bob
Tarkers
05-26-2007, 04:54 AM
Hi Finless,
Yeah, unfortunately I figured these were going to be my options :?
I don't like to mess around too much with new parts like this, I feel it should be perfect right of the bat, y'know?
It wasn't a cheap part - it should be right. :arggg:
I'll head off to the hobby shop today and see if they've got a comparison/replacement.
If your was a direct replacement, then so should mine be, really. I reckon the ARP assembly is for a different model as Chris suggested above. My concern now is that the Hub is also from a different machine, but everything to date went back together ok so... :dontknow
I'll let you know how I get on. Got family round this weekend (its a long bank holiday weekend over here) so I don't reckon I'm going to be allowed much tinkering time on the bench.
Think I need to re-study your head set-up video again and again. Its the first time I've re-set up a head as it originally came ARTF.
Got any tips apart from keepin it Level!
(Seriously, Thanks for those vids - they are invaluable for noobs like me!)
I have all the bits - pitch guage, flybar lock, etc I'm hoping to try to get as close to 11'/11' as possible, so there's definately going to be some fiddling, though I may need some tips as to how to setup my radio (Futaba T6EXHP)
TIA
Tarkers
Finless
05-26-2007, 10:44 AM
Only tip really is your going to need to shorten the roptation pins to get that pitch range and not bind in cyclic... Other than that it should go easy!
Good luck and I bet Chris is right that this part is not for the Swift. When I first got my metal main grips they were wrong too e.g. for a different heli. Century took care of it quickly though.
Bob
Tarkers
05-28-2007, 08:01 AM
Hi all,
Chris, you were right. Stopped off at the LHS this weekend (same place that had sent me the CNC head via mail order) and compard the parts. It turns out the head/guide they had sent me was for a 30/50 size heli and the swift part, although similar, is actually different. The pins are shorter and fatter on the 30/50 head. The part numbers are extremely similar and I think it had been simply a picking error. Swift parts generally seem to start with CNE, whereas the others start with just CN.
They swapped the guide out without question and let me keep the head - its only slightly different from the swift head and all the parts have gone back on with no issues (so far!).
The family's all gone now so I'm off to the bench to re-build my heli :D - might even get back on the sticks if the weather clears this evening.
Chris and Bob - thanks for your input guys and Thanks to Midland Helicopters UK for sorting my parts without fuss (if anyones reading).
Cheers now
Tarkers