How to spray paint a canopy

[celter]

Can somebody explain how this is done with a rattle spraycan. When I try the result is awful. The paint is very uneven and I have to sand it and restart. Then the same thing happens. How far are you from the canopy? How much paint? How long between each layer? ETC.
Finless, you should do a panopy painting video :lol:

[cudaboy_71]

there are books on painting...not something you can just throw down in a couple of sentences in a quick post. but, here are some tips:

#1 overlooked detail in using rattle cans: not shaking the can long/well enough. especially if the can is new or has been sitting on the shelf for a while. i like to shake it like a salt shaker until the ball can be heard, THEN start shaking for 3 minutes. Also, alternate shaking styles from 'salt shaker' to 'flag waving' where you roll the can in a circular motion and can feel the ball wiping the sides of the can. tip the can as you do this so the ball wipes the entire length of the can. while painting larger jobs, you need to stop in the middle of a coat and give a few shakes to the can as well. the objective is to get a consistent, very finely atomized mist of paint. if you are getting an uneven dot or spattering, shake more and/or check the tip for plugging (clean the tip by soaking in thinner and blowing compressed air through it)

as far as distance from the subject, just follow the can's advice. usually 12". you want the 'cone' of paint to be about 3 - 3 1/2" in diameter when it hits the subject. this can be difficult to maintain if you paint outside in the wind. so, don't. best to wait until the wind is down, or create a makeshift booth in the garage. (never paint inside)

basic painting technique says that you depress the button BEFORE the paint hits the subject. then, start moving the can smoothly and at a steady rate (about 1 foot per second) across the subject, releasing the button ONLY after moving completely off of the subject.

solid/non-metallic colors are easier to lay down than metallics because you can overlap the strokes by about 1/2". if you don't overlap them, it is easy to get 'striping' in the coats which looks ugly. however, metallics will reveal too much overlap in the sun with excess flake where the coats overlapped...so, save metallics until you are more experienced.

ALWAYS use many thin coats as opposed to one or two thick coats. the paint will go on uneven and/or run if you lay down complete coverage on the first pass. don't worry if it is not even or you can still see the base below. lots of thin coats will fill in. (i like to do at least 5 coats of each color, myself).

FLASHING is a term you may run across if you are reading up on painting. FLASH is when the fresh coat goes from looking wet to dry, and it usually only takes about 3-5 minutes depending on the type of paint. this is how long you wait between coats of the same color.

if you need to mask or change colors you need to wait at least 1 hour. but, paints vary dramatically here. safest is to wait overnight before masking or you risk pulling up fresh paint when you remove the tape.

there's a lot more to it. but, that should get your jobs from looking awful to acceptable.

good luck.

[celter]

Fantastic write down. You've been a big help. Thanks.

[Skiddz]

All good advice, but prep is key. ALL canopies need to be washed at least twice with soap and water to remove any mold release agents, oils, dirt etc then need to be sanded to remove *ALL* glossy spots and smooth down seams etc. Paint won't fill dings so fill 'em with glazing putty and sand smooth.

Once it's smooth, wash it again, dry it and then wipe it town with a tack-cloth. Lay down a couple coats of adhesion promoter (bumper primer) for plastic canopies, then follow with a couple coats of sanding primer (it'll help fill small pinholes) Fiberglass canopies don't need adhesion promoter. Sand smooth after the 2nd coat then wipe down with a tack cloth.

Once the prep is done, paint away following the paint manufacturer's instructions. Try not to touch the canopy too much as oils and dirt from your hands can contaminate the surface. I like to wear latex gloves when I paint. Keeps hand "funk" off the surface and keeps my hands (relatively) clean.

[cudaboy_71]

good call skiddz. yes, like i said there is TONS to learn in painting. prep is key. someone really should make a video. but, it really needs to be a 2-3 man production. i was going to attempt it myself when i painted my last canopy. but, painting is so time sensitive that i just couldnt manage the camera and getting the paintjob done...even with a buddy, he was mostly acting as runner for things once i was in the booth. so, i have a bunch of disjunct video not worth editing. :?

[vera]

There is a primer called "Bulldog". I get it at Wal-Mart. It will allow paint to stick to anything. I'm not sure I needed it, but it worked good.

[d35i6n]

Question. I have painted a ton of lexan bodies (cars and helis). Now I am doing my first big fiberglass canopy. What paint do you recommend? Basic enamel or enamel for lexan bodies ( to flex with the canopy when putting on and taking off)?

[noguy]

Anyone know of a clearcoat that will flex?? I would like to put a clearcoat protectant on my new MT paintjob.... I dont seem to be able to find anything at lhs or online.

Thanks, Noah

[bullaculla]

Mine was done with rattle cans. :mrgreen: Fluorescent rustoleum, which I dont recmmend cause it took long to dry.
http://photos.imageevent.com/bullaculla1/heli/large/IMG_3303.JPG
Go with Krylon. Just get some fine sandpaper and take the shine off, prime, tape off design and mask and spray! make sure you keep hands clean tho. Also, dont use regular brown masking tape. I like the green automotive masking tape. Mine has a clearcoat, but it took away some of teh fluorescent glow effect. Just lay down thin coats of spray and clear. This will allow some flexing.

[Kindling Maker]

Also I like to wipe down what ever I am going to paint with alchol or something to take any oil off, it helps prevent Fisheye, or orange peel. Orange Peel is causted but the paint "flashing" too fast and "Fish Eye" is caused by any contaminates on the surface such as oil or dirt.

[MuchMore]

To thin the new can of paint out easily without getting your arm sore from shaking all day...simply leave your can of paint in a bowl of warm to hot water for about 5 minutes before you paint. This thins the paint effortlessly. 2 or three shakes of the can and you're ready to spray...

[Skiddz]

That trick also increases the pressure of the can slightly which helps to atomize the paint a little better...

[d35i6n]

i stipped a previous painted fiberglass canopy. this also takes off the gell coat. do i need to re gell the canopy ( is this something i can even do) or do i just use primer first? (first time painting a fiberglass canopy)

[Pinecone]

Primer is fine, with some spot putty if you have any pinholes after you prime.

[jaywhy]

To thin the new can of paint out easily without getting your arm sore from shaking all day...simply leave your can of paint in a bowl of warm to hot water for about 5 minutes before you paint. This thins the paint effortlessly. 2 or three shakes of the can and you're ready to spray...

Kick ass - great tip!