Current 550 discussions moved from my video topic

[Piranha]

Hi Guys!
I've got new upgraded motormount plate and new antirotation gearshaft!
SO there are two new spacers with the shaft, do i need to install it under and over the antirotation gear????
http://flying-hobby.com/catalog/images/204582_8mmOon-way-gear-shft_B.jpg

[AdrianM]

I just got my Hurricane 550 today along with an alloy elevator bellcrank, blade grips and head yoke, new motor mount and extended shaft.

[Finless]

Piranha, just a guess but I think you have it right. Looks to me these would go on each side of the autorotation bearing.

Bob

[AdrianM]

My new kit had a shim above and below the autorotation gear. I think they did it to reduce the up and down play in the autorotation gear. However, the gear now has a rough feel. It think they took out too much play and its too tight now between the shaft bearings. I removed the shim above the auto rotation gear as removing this shim helps the gear's alignment with the main gear. It rotates freely now.

[Piranha]

Thank you, guys! I also noticed that with two spacers there is no play in the autorotation gear and its too tight, now I'm thinking to remove one!
But wonder is this play necessary at all?

[Finless]

Hmmmm if you look at the spacer it's ID to OD is very thin. I think the purpose is to keep the one way bearing from rubbing on the race shield of the top and bottom bearings. The spacers make sure the one way engages the inner race of the top and bottom bearings only. Thus I am not sure it is a good idea to remove one?

Might be better to file or sand a little height down of the large aluminum spacer to free it up.

Bob

[AdrianM]

The OD of the one way bearing is small enough so it will not touch non-rotating parts of the shaft bearings.

The spacers almost pinch the auto gear between the bearings. With the main gear out of the frame the auto gear had a metallic grindy feel so I took out one spacer and it was a lot smoother.

The older kits had no spacers at all with no ill effects so I think removing one spacer will not be a problem.

I just finished setting up my radio and thanks to Finlesss videos it came out perfect. All collective and cyclic radio settings generate symetrical pitch +/- on the head the first try :noteworthy

[DEWorley]

I need some help. I'm getting ready to mount my servo wheels & pushrods.
The manual says the pushrod should be 60mm but I measure the distance from the control arm ball to the spot on my servo wheel where the template says my ball should be & it's 80mm.

[DEWorley]

after thinking about it, i think that the pushrod length should be the same as the distance between the servo wheel center & the control arm pivot.

[bclong21]

deworley,

check out Bob's video's in the tech room for this heli. It is a must when building this heli. Many thanks, Bob. Those linkages must be done perfectly as many in this thread know. Follow all of his advise and this thing will fly like a charm.

[bclong21]

deworley

btw- get the rocket city links for this build. They make it alot more precise because they are not directional and half turns are possible. I have bought a pile of these from Rick's to use on all of my heli's. They must be sized correctly though

Good Luck
Brian.

[AdrianM]

I used TT Raptor links. I used them for all the servo to bell crank links and the long link from the swash to the mixers arm on the grip. I ended up needing 2 more for the tail rotor control rod.

[Finless]

after thinking about it, i think that the pushrod length should be the same as the distance between the servo wheel center & the control arm pivot.



NOPE... wont work that way because the balls on the bellcranks is NOT on the same line as the bell crank pivot point! The balls on the bell crank are offset from the pivot point thus YOU MUST do that same thing on the servo wheels or you will stress the bearings in the servos and also bind the system!

See my videos as I explain this pretty well I think!

Bob

[X30PILOT]

Bob,

I purchased the CNC elevator bell crank and the holes are not offset on it.
What is the best way to make the two aileron bell cranks match up with this?

Thanks

X30

[AdrianM]

Move the ball closest to the motor back on each bell crank.

[Finless]

On the metal bell cranks the ball locations are now in a straight lne with the pivot bolt. So on the servo wheel you do the same thing. Put then directly in line with the screw that holds the wheels on the servo. AND of course get the ball spacing the same as on the metal bell cranks.

Bob

[AdrianM]

I just did a test hover/throttle percentage test on my Huricane with the Z30. It was pretty impressive. 80% got me 2200rpm with the stock gearing. Just for fun I bumped the high point on the throttle curve to 100 and did a few full collective pops (10 deg max collective in Normal mode) to see what it would do...it actually gained head speed as it hit max collective! It also had a lot of get up and go!

The Gov in my CC80 should have no problems holding 2200rpm in ID 1 and 2.

[AdrianM]

I was flying pretty hard today and noticed a few ugly results to basic manuvers. I checked for CCPM interaction and found none at all.

I did however find 1 thing I don't think Finless spotted in his vids.

At 10 deg +/- pitch and full elevator or aileron cyclic the rod end for the link from the swash to the mixing arm interferes with the mixing arm. The solution is to space the ball away with a couple M2 washers, or an M2 nut, or use Trex 600 balls (they have more offset).

I fixed this by using a longer M2 screw with a plain m2 nut between the ball and the mixing arm. I now have no interference even at +/- 12 deg.

[dutch_anykey]

Hi Adrian,

Trying to figure out what you mean. Like in the picture below?
I never noticed it before. But just out of curousity..what are the "ugly results" during flight?. I still can't get my roll's nicely. Could it have to do something with this?
My radio is still in repair..so i couldn't check it "live" I just did it by hand, maximum pitch and max aileron. then i shot the picture.
But i doubt that i will ever get this swash position during flight really.

b.t.w. Could somebody PM me or give me a link how to post a clickable picture link with thumbnail preview in this forum....really struggling with this. Thanks

http://www.helifreak.com/album_mod/upload/3323b54bb2d3d509a907c0c006187d4a.jpg

http://www.helifreak.com/album_mod/upload/d0f2ab4b6be21d966b8e0a01180e18ef.jpg

Maurice

[AdrianM]

Those pics are of the wash out arms. The mixing arms are on the blade grips.

Here is hoe to check it:

1. Line up the flybat with the center of the heli like you would if you were checking for elevator ccpm interactions.

2. Got to full + collective

3. Push full up or down elevator.

You will see the flybar move. It moving becuase the rod end at the top of the long link from the swash to the mixing arm on the blade grips is contacting the mixting arm.

The solution is to space it away from the mixing arm.

[Finless]

People have pointed this out to me but for some reason (raptor links maybe) I dont have this problem. I get a very LITE hit of the link on the washout mixer arm bolt and I simply replaced those with a button head screw.

Bob