Logictech 6100T Gyro Setup Videos

[Finless]

OK the expo is NOT to control piro rate... This gyro software makes the rudder way too sensitive around center stick to be comfortable! The expo only makes the stick softer around center but doesnt do anything to piro rate as full rudder stick is still the same.

YES the end points control piro rate... so at full rudder stick if you think the heli is too slow in piro then increase the end points.

The gov I mention is the CC85HV and when set up right works great!

Bob

[rob-atl]

My Logitech is working fantastic!!
I adjusted the mechanical center in rate mode, and was then re-adjusting the LOGITECH endpoints (That the gyro uses in Heading Hold mode), I wondered if the video described the best way to set the Logitech Endpoints. Did the video say to have it in rate mode? I think Heading Hold mode would be better for Logitech endpoint adjustment (and that is how I do my 401 also).

Here's why:
I was experimenting with 100, 110, 85 TRANSMITTER endpoints for Rudder, and I noticed that with the Logitech set on RATE 30% as the video mentions (I think), the servo goes a different distance with each TX adjustment. When I switched to Heading Hold mode, the servo goes a bit further. (You might have to move the rudder stick twice or so in HH mode on the ground to be sure the servo goes all the way to it's Logitech endpoint, then hold it there and adjust the endpoint on the Logitech as Finless shows in the video- with the control arm off)

It's odd that in RATE Mode, Setting the LOGITECH Endpoints moves the servo, but the TOTAL RUDDER SERVO TRAVEL seems to be a function of BOTH the TX endpoint settings AND the Logitech endpoint settings. I think what we're really trying to set up is the MAXIMUM travel of the servos in Heading Hold mode, so I think the Logitech needs to be in HH mode to set the Logitech endpoints.

[Finless]

Yes I noticed that the rudder endpoints are different between rate and HH mode. In fact I cover this in the video as a warning somewhere. I too found this strange behavior. BUT when I added gain in rate mode it seemed to then match HH mode for end points. When the gain was really LOW in rate mode is when I saw the end points did not match HH mode.

Bob

[hookmaker]

Hey,
Anyone tried using the Logictech T6100 gyro with an alternative servo, yet?

I'm trying it with a Futaba s9257 on my T-Rex 500, but so far I have problems centering the servo.

/Henrik

[ltfdrescue]

Can anybody tell me if the set up is the same for the logictech 5000 vs. the 2100 and the 6100?

[hookmaker]

ltfdrescue, - IS there a Logictech 5000? - If so, where did you see it?

/Henrik

[ltfdrescue]

Okay maybe I miss typed....is the setup similar to that of the logitech 2100 or 6100t.


http://www.hitecrcd.com/servos/show?name=HG-5000+Gyro+w%2F5083+digital+servo

[Finless]

My understanding is the HItec version of this gyro has had code changes for improved piro rate and other things but setup should be about the same.

Bob

[ltfdrescue]

Finless,

Thanks for the reply. Should I use a regulator for this gyro or will I be safe running 6volts? The directions don't say either way.

Ltfdrescue

[Finless]

Gyro is OK on 6V but you should get a step down for the tail servo if it is not rated for 6V. I do not know what the servo is on this gyro..... Might want to call Hitec and ask if it doesnt say.

Bob

[billyd]

Hi Finless,

Love the vids, many thanks.

Question: I noticed that when you set the Gyro endpoints for rudder travel, you did it in normal mode with a very low gain setting (1 or 2%). I set my endpoints as instructed. However, when I increase my gain to a typical level required for flight (30 to 50%), I notice that the servo travel increases dramatically with less Tx input. So that the servo travels to 100% of the distance before my Tx gimbal has gone full travel. Is this desired? Why don't we set the travel endpoints at the gain we are flying at?

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

[Finless]

My videos talk about this and I explain that the first segment was incorrect on setting end points.. Watch the other vids as I DO say you have to set it with some gain.

Bob

[billyd]

Sorry Bob must have missed that. I've got to stop working on Helis late at night. :YeaBaby:

[Finless]

No problemo... Also I did mess that up because this was the first gyro I ever used that end points changed with gain! Weird it works that way... This has bit a few people too...

Bob

[billyd]

I guess the folks at Logictech take the word "gain" literally and amplify the output to the rudder servo with increased gyro gain.

Would that explain why the servo acts so hot? Like it has positive expo?

[Finless]

I don't know but YEA you need to run like 50% or more expo or the dang rudder is WAY to sensitive! When i was setting up rate mode it was that way too so that part is not gain related just how it's designed I guess.

Bob

[bgagnon]

Hi Bob,

Your videos are great for a newbe like me. I was wandering if you will be doing a videot about 2100T Gyro. Is the setup for the 2100T would look like a 6100T? would you recommand a 2100T over a 401 for a Newbe who has no problem with technology or go with a sure value and stick with s 401 event if it's 2/3 heavier

Thanks,

[LiveSquid]

I would also like to know if this process is the same as I would follow for the 2100 on a Futaba T7CAP?


Thanks

[nzreg]

Gyro is OK on 6V but you should get a step down for the tail servo if it is not rated for 6V.
Bob
Let me see if this is right.
Using a regulator to drop the 6 volt to 4.8 volt for the servo, I replace the two power wires from the gyro with the two from the regulator but leave the signal cable from the gyro connected to the servo
Thanks
Reg

[aussiemick]

Just plug the regulator cable into the gyro and the servo into the regulator. It has the third wire for the signal in it.

Mick

[nzreg]

Just plug the regulator cable into the gyro and the servo into the regulator. It has the third wire for the signal in it.

Mick

Thanks Mick,
My regulator has a three wire running from it for the output side but the input only has two.
Its the Castle Link 10 amp one so there is no signal wire that runs through the regulator.
Reg

[aussiemick]

Oh well sorry for the bum steer.

I use the Align onehttp://wattsuprc.com.au/ProductPhoto/K10381A/K10381A_1.jpg and it is simply plug and play.

Are you sure what you have is a step down regulator and not a BEC?? I searched the CC website and couldnt find a step down regulator.

Mick

[nzreg]

Castle Creations RX battery eliminator
Switching regulator.
10 max output.
6s max input. 25volt.
4.8-9.0 volt selectable output.
Programmed with the Castle link cable and software.

Had to check myself Mick but the above specs are taken from the packaging and this is the link.
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc_bec.html

[aussiemick]

Thats the problem then

What you have there is a BEC used to power the whole heli (usually Electric) electrical system from a large Flight battery. This is not a stepdown regulator used to drop the voltage to an individual servo.

http://www.readyheli.com/K10333A_5_1V_Step_Down_Voltage_Regulator_p/k10333a.htm is the part you need.

Mick

[nzreg]

Thats why I'm a newbie DUH!!
So its ok to use a 5.1 volt stepdown to power up the servo used by this gyro? even tho the servo is rated at 4.8 volt.