Problems building the Tail assembly, Please HELP!

[R-4-L]

Hey all, I'v been building the synergy kit, today I reached the tail assembly and have stumbled upon some problems.

First, after fitting in the thrust bearings into the tail blade grips, and installed them on the tail hub, the tail grips become so stiff and notchy and not smooth. is there a way to fix this?


Second, the tail pitch forks when fixed to the tail pitch slider (using pin and e-clips) also becomes very hard to move because of the pin's tight fit on the slider.. is this normal?


Third (and last), when I installed the boom, the meshing of the bevel gear and the crown gear is tight/stiff and is not smooth, the side frames of the synergy has holes where I can reach the grub-screws of the bevel gear, can I un-screw those gurbs and tune the position of the bevel gear to reach good meshing ?

Thanks for whatever comments you could help me with,

[Chuckie]

I responded to your post on RR. So just to make Clay happy I'll post here as well abit shorter. :Bow

First, push end bearing race in with plastic tool. :arggg: :hammer

Second, yes but you can use heat gun to loosen the forks. :smokin:

Third, NO. :Chair The Transmission shaft must not be allowed to move, bevel gear will ride up and down crown gear and could blow out crown gear. Loosen boom clamps and push bevel gear to rear of heli as much as possible. Crown gear mesh is supposed to be tight. It will wear in and be smooth after a few flights.

Charles

[R-4-L]

Chuckie !

Thanks man! I'll follow your guidance ... I am going to first fix the gear issue..

everything you said was actually done. transmission is fully flush with boom, front clamp all the way to the front until stopped by the tranmission assembly.

its not like I cannot move the gear, it moves ok, but as I said not smooth and a little rough, I think I'll take your advice and run the heli like this first and observe.

the picture below is how the meshing appears, it look ok to me!

[Chuckie]

Yes it looks correct. For a better angle take the picture a little more toward the rear. Basically right into the side frame and center the camera lenz on the most rear point of the crown gear. The large end of the bevel gear can be in line or a little outside the outer edge of the crown gear.


front clamp all the way to the front until stopped by the tranmission assembly.


I usually say and adjust the opposite. The transmission assy is all the way toward the rear and up against the front boom clamp. Loosen the four boom clamp bolts and using a finger push the bevel gear toward the back until the trans assy (fully seated in the boom) is flush with the front boom clamp.

Either way it looks and sounds like you have the bevel gear/tran/boom mounted right. If after a few flights you still think the mesh is way too tight come back and lets discuss.

Did you have any problems resizing all the links?

Charles

[R-4-L]

thanks charles, the trans. is all the way into the boom, so fingers-crossed thats done. I couldn't take a usable picture its really heard to reach :oops:

funny you mentioned the links ! yes I do have trouble sizing them, they are MEGA size and the normal sizing tools provided in the market aren't fit for the job..

I installed all my links, but definitely feel like I am going to pull them out and size them by whatever means possible.. any suggestions?

by the way, the tail-grips advice worked ! , as you said, the thrus-bearings weren't seated well in the grips coz of the grips being a tight fit on them, as soon as I pushed them all them (and heard a click), the grips are smoother.

[Chuckie]

I couldn't take a usable picture its really heard to reach.


I was talking about taking a picture of the side frame which should be easy. No big deal.



I installed all my links, but definitely feel like I am going to pull them out and size them by whatever means possible.. any suggestions?


Hyperperformance makes an excellent sizing tool (see picture) but if you have the JR ball link sizing tool you can use one of the N9 chrome balls for the servo arm and it will screw into the JR tool, once you remove the screw in the tool. Then take some cutters and cut into the ball to create metal edges. If you don't have the JR tool find some way to mount the servo ball into a hand tool. Check the spare bag of parts for an extra servo ball.

With the home made tool it takes a bit of time to work the holes bigger. The Hyper tool works quickly.

http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/hyperformancerc/Detail?no=4

Regards,

Charles

[R-4-L]

gone with the hypser sizer,, it'll be easier!

talk about super support! you rock charles ! :noteworthy

[Chuckie]

You're welcome dude. :Bang Happy to help as I love my N9 and want to see others fly it with good results. Let us know how she flys.

Charles

[samerelkholy]

hi Chuckie, I've got my Synergy one month back and flies but I lost my crown gear more than a 50 teeth out of 70 but luckly landed safely, I found out it was very lose so I changed it and added 4 schims to set it even with the bevel gear but again I lost about 2 teeth from the crown gear , I really don't know which procedures I have to check to solve out this problem, other thing I noted that this happens when I load the tail in fast piroutes manuvers with sudden stop

[Chuckie]

Samer,

Getting the main shaft, crown gear, and tail transmission right is key to being able to slam hard pirouettes. Also if you run the Futaba 611 gyro you need to program delays to help with starting and stopping the tail. With 105mm tail blades the Synergy tail drive is very hard on the crown gear. Which gyro do you have?

If you have the 611 gyro then use these delay values.

Control Delay I (Rudder Stick Operated), Right and Left = 15
Control Delay D (Rudder Stick Returned), Right and Left = 50

Something must be wrong if you have to run 4 shims under the crown gear. I found adding a second shim usually is all that is required. Have you installed the main shaft bearing blocks correctly? Also you need to make sure main shaft never has any up/down play. Each time I pickup my heli to go fly I always feel if the main shaft is tight. It would be helpful if you could post or send me some pictures of the heli around the main shaft and close up of the crown gear.

Regarding the Torque Tube you also need to be sure it is locked to the tail box and there is no loose play of the input shaft of the tail box.

Check these few things and let me know what you find.

Charles

[samerelkholy]

hi chuckie,

thanks alot for your help, my SN have 611 gyro, O.S SZH and Hatori, GV1, S9351 Sab 105 tail blades, Sab 24gm paddles, and Radix 710mm with duralite regulated at 5.2v and using JR9X. I bought it second hand from dubai as no one here fly 90s or supply them, actually its the first synergy too in my country. I'll check the delay for gyro and let you know the result as I noticed too I have a play on the main saft of around 0.5mm up and down(what do you advice for this) but for the torq tube and tail gears no probles with them, unluckly I have to travel tomorrow morning overseas for a week, so after I'll get back will post you with some picts and the results.

regards,

Samer.

[Chuckie]

I have a play on the main saft of around 0.5mm up and down(what do you advice for this)


Loosen the main shaft collar and while pressing down on the main shaft push up on the collar and tighten the 4 set screws.

If you have 4 shims under the crown gear this will restrict how far down the crown gear sits. 4 is a lot of shim so I'd suggest you start over and get the main shaft/crown gear set with one shim and then see how much play you have in the transmission bevel gear. With a new crown gear the mesh should be tight. However if you find the crown gear to bevel gear too loose then I need to see some pictures of your heli so we can determine why your machine needs more shim under the crown gear.

I'd suggest you use V Blade or Radix 105mm tail blades. The SABs are a think and square end blade and more disk power than you need. Some are using 100mm with good results. I know they supplied the SABs in the kit but they are too much if you don't use any delay and or are hard on the tail.

Also, set the 3D mode in the gyro versus F3C. The tail stops softer and controls piro rate better in 3d flying.

Charles