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Ron~FordTech
02-19-2012, 10:02 AM
Understood - my only thought was that with some machines...there are things that have been identified as issues/problems which have been updated in subsequent versions. Aside from that, I agree completely.

And Ron - that's awesome. Thanks so much!

taoY
02-19-2012, 10:15 AM
Understood - my only thought was that with some machines...there are things that have been identified as issues/problems which have been updated in subsequent versions. Aside from that, I agree completely.

And Ron - that's awesome. Thanks so much!

Good thoughts. In this case, I can think of two. I am sure others will chime in.
1. V1 auto hub has lock up issue. The heli can still fly as usual but you won't be able to autorotate. V1 auto hub does not have radial bearing on top of the one way bearing.
2. V2a tail grip also has lock up isse. It is silver in color. It does not have a shim between the thrust bearing and radial bearing. V2b tail corrects this.

You probably have V1 auto hub. You can take the main gear out, if you only see a one way bearing without radial bearing then you have V1 auto hub. Not all experience the one way lock up though.

Too bad the RC heli is not as mature as the auto industry where you have a very thick book to tell you which part goes to which model and year. :)

Cheers:cheers

Ron~FordTech
02-19-2012, 11:23 AM
2. V2a tail grip also has lock up isse. It is silver in color. It does not have a shim between the thrust bearing and radial bearing. V2b tail corrects this.
Cheers:cheersSo...based upon closeup#2 in post 16 I'm okay for that issue(?)

taoY
02-19-2012, 01:29 PM
So...based upon closeup#2 in post 16 I'm okay for that issue(?)

Exactly. You have KDE PTU http://kdedirect.com/TREX550600700PTUV2.html which includes extra radial bearing. It is better than stock V1. It's difficult to tell from the picture, but looks like the extra radial bearing is there. The only way to be sure is to take it apart. I'd do it anyway to check the condition of the bearing and grease the thrust bearing.

Looks like you are going to have a lot of fun.

Enjoy

Ron~FordTech
02-19-2012, 08:26 PM
The fun may have to wait a little longer. I began going over the machine in earnest this evening, and I discovered I have five stripped frame screws:
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/7619/125ad.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/125ad.jpg/)http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6552/124av.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/124av.jpg/)
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9273/123adq.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/123adq.jpg/)http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6770/122at.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/43/122at.jpg/)
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3592/121ay.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/121ay.jpg/)

What's the usual fix for this? Do we drill out, up-size tap and install the next larger screw? (or same diameter screw but with wider thread pitch?) Increase screw length by 2mm?

Or do we insert a helicoil? (I've never used that term in this hobby 'til just now! It's rather apropos, isn't it?!)

Or is this one of those annoying things where the best/only solution is a tear-down & replace whatever is behind the affected screw? :thumbdown:

bike mad
02-19-2012, 09:17 PM
most of the screws are ones that go in the tail boom case, there easy to over tithen, they go into some small plastic hex tube, if you put a lager screws the hex tube will expand and your have a hard time trying to split the boom case then you strip a cog,
you can replace the hex tube but be careful when you do the screws up, or you could live with it, or put a drop of supper glue on the screws and replace the hex tube after your first crash,
I go buy feel so it's up to you, here's what you want six H60037 - PLASTIC HEXAGONAL BOLT

The other bit is the servo mount, here is an up grade, much better,
H55023 - METAL RUDDER SERVO MOUNT

CACN
02-19-2012, 10:35 PM
Use these, they are made of aluminum.

http://helidirect.com/align-aluminum-hexagonal-bolt-hn6018-trex-600n-p-3422.hdx

CyprusFlyer
02-20-2012, 02:19 AM
Just a matter of time before those crappy plastic self tappers strip, use the metal frame spacers as mentioned, much more confidance with them anyway, you will need screws for them, I bought a complete set of frame screws, you then have quite a few handy spares.
I think the other stripped screws indicated are for the tail servo mount, can either use a slightly bigger self tapper, or even better get an aluminium mount (KDE), then you use proper machine screws that come with it.

Ron~FordTech
02-20-2012, 09:36 AM
Good advice - I'll pick up the recommended items!

Ron~FordTech
02-20-2012, 04:30 PM
Okay! Next thing:

I have discovered that the threaded end of the ball on the rudder servo horn is scratching an arc into the underside of the transmission case. Admittedly the servo attachment screws are a bit loose -- and it looks like I must extract the entire transmission case to access those screws to tighten them -- but I wonder if I'm going to able to tighten those four screws (and compress the rubber isolation blocks) enough to allow the horn to swing without the flat end dragging on the plastic.

I wonder - if I loosened the frame screws that secure the transmission case...if I could move the case earthwards slightly(?) I assume the screw holes in the frame are round as opposed to elliptical(?)
http://i42.tinypic.com/24wdh0j.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/mx25qw.jpg

Has anyone else experienced this? Is the aluminum TR servo mount exactly the same size?

1004ron
02-20-2012, 04:31 PM
Okay! Next thing:

I have discovered that the threaded end of the ball on the rudder servo horn is scratching an arc into the underside of the transmission case. Admittedly the servo attachment screws are a bit loose...but I don't know if I am going to able to tighten those four screws (and compress the rubber isolation blocks) enough to allow the horn to swing without the flat end dragging on the plastic!
[/URL]
[URL="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/116te.jpg/"] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/118cm.jpg/)
I installed my servo's from under the mounting bracket.

Ron~FordTech
02-26-2012, 07:01 PM
Okay - the careful/slow/no-rush-anyway-'cuz-I-still-have-to-get-alot-better-with-my-450 configuration continues!

I have a couple of alum framing/structural components on the way to deal with the stripped threads.

PHANTMXR6
02-27-2012, 05:31 AM
Okay! Next thing:

I have discovered that the threaded end of the ball on the rudder servo horn is scratching an arc into the underside of the transmission case. Admittedly the servo attachment screws are a bit loose -- and it looks like I must extract the entire transmission case to access those screws to tighten them -- but I wonder if I'm going to able to tighten those four screws (and compress the rubber isolation blocks) enough to allow the horn to swing without the flat end dragging on the plastic.

I wonder - if I loosened the frame screws that secure the transmission case...if I could move the case earthwards slightly(?) I assume the screw holes in the frame are round as opposed to elliptical(?)



Has anyone else experienced this? Is the aluminum TR servo mount exactly the same size?
Judging by the last picture you have too much thread exposed from the nut on the ball. If you try trimming the excess thread off with a Dremel it may not contact the TT case any longer.

Ron~FordTech
02-27-2012, 12:31 PM
Indeed. Sometimes the simplest solutions...

Thanks for replying! :)

Ron~FordTech
02-28-2012, 10:29 PM
I've pulled the f. shaft...cleaned & re-lubed everything and re-assembled all of that. But I didn't realize that there was supposed to be a sleeve inserted into the head...in which the f. shaft rides. It didn't come out when I extracted the shaft -- nor in retrospect would I have expected it to -- but for that reason I am not able to state with certainty that it was even in there in the first place! I did run a cloth thru the "tunnel" in the head, and it was smooth & clean & black when I reinstalled everything.** If the sleeve was NOT there what would the inside of the head have looked like? Is it the sleeve that makes the "tunnel" appear smooth & shiny like it is? If yes - I'm good!

Anyway once I got things back in place I realized I was uncertain whether to re-attach the 61mm pushrods to the long-necked balls or the short ones. I'm thinking it is the long-neckers, is this correct?

And when it's time for mid-stick pitch adjustments...is there a preferred sequence to the length-changing of the two sets of pushrods? With no adjustment so far, I'm really close to flat at mid-stick...but I just KNOW I'm gonna wanna tweak one or both blades by a degree or two to get the tracking set nicely!

** Alot of people seem to think it's necessary (helpful?) to slather on the grease in this particular area...but I don't. The f. shaft does not spin around. Yes - it "floats" in the dampeners to a small degree, and over the course of time it would surely rotate a little...but it certainly doesn't spin in the typical 'could-get-hot-without-lubrication' sense, so I figger a touch of silicone is sufficient for the parts of the f. shaft that are not bearing-related (i.e.: where it passes thru the sleeve and the dampeners) and I'll use the grease for the thrust bearings. Is this belief reasonable?

Ron~FordTech
03-04-2012, 01:20 PM
Okay! My aluminum tail servo mount arrived, and that has eliminated the screw-dragging-on-the-underside-of-the-chassis problem. 'Twas not even that expensive, either! :thumbup:

I discovered a 4mm length of exposed servo wire from where it had been chafing on the frame, so I ended up re-routing all of the wires and shielding those areas where they cross/penetrate the framing members.

I ordered a pack of aluminum hex spacers (H60032) to replace the plastic ones that are stripped...but that is not the right p/n for my rig. The H60032 are 42mm long and I need 47mm. (The H60032 p/n was provided by the vendor; not my error)

I also ordered the canopy spacers...which come with two aluminum rods. Those are 54mm!! So I can't use them, either - but I was able to install the rubber knobbies, so I guess that's alright.

I'd still like to learn the answer to the f. shaft question [without tearing the head apart again] but otherwise I'm down to two relatively simple issues:

Do I need to program the ESC before I try to lift off? or are the factory defaults satisfactory? (Limited, docile flying in store for awhile!)

When my Sportbec arrives, should I install it immediately (before maiden-ing) or get some flying under my belt before worrying about it?

Still having fun!

1004ron
03-04-2012, 01:45 PM
I ordered a pack of aluminum hex spacers (H60032) to replace the plastic ones that are stripped...but that is not the right p/n for my rig. The H60032 are 42mm long and I need 47mm. (The H60032 p/n was provided by the vendor; not my error)

That's the part number I used - not sure why you think it's not right - they aren't meant to touch both side frames.
1 x Align Aluminum Hexagonal Bolt H60032 - Trex 600 (H60032) = $7.99

The stock plastic ones are 42.7mm, and the H60032's are 42mm


Do I need to program the ESC before I try to lift off? or are the factory defaults satisfactory? (Limited, docile flying in store for awhile!)
If you know the settings of the ESC by listening to the boot up pulses, then no need to program the ESC before the flight.

When my Sportbec arrives, should I install it immediately (before maiden-ing) or get some flying under my belt before worrying about it?
Why not install it before the maiden?

Whats the rating of the Sportbec ?

Ron~FordTech
03-04-2012, 03:49 PM
Re: spacers - very strange! My front-most spacer - into which the rubber stand-offs are secured - is 47mm long. Are there *shorter* spacers in other locations within the frame?! That would explain it.

I will educate myself on the ESC pulses.

The Sportbec is 3.5A I believe. CC says good for up to 8 servos, so in non-aggressive flying with the standard 4 servos I should be good.

CyprusFlyer
03-04-2012, 04:11 PM
Beware, no way will 3.5A support those servos, I did extensive tests and managed a peak of 7A briefly, you really should not consider anything less than a CC BEC Pro, 20A rated at certain voltage, 15A if I remember correctly for 6s. Align built in are 5A but they have a little more headroom for peaks than some.
The spacers for the Tail boom do not reach the frames, they are designed to clamp the boom assy and frames in one!

Raptorg2zman
03-04-2012, 04:20 PM
Welcome to the 550 club !!!
you'll love it Mine is a V1 with 3g. flys great !! Enjoy

Ron~FordTech
03-04-2012, 04:22 PM
Hmm. Evidently I was mis-informed re: the BEC.

And the spacer issue is making me feel quite ignorant! I need to educate myself better so as not to so neatly insert my foot into my mouth!

<scuttles off to read & look more closely at heli>

Ron~FordTech
03-09-2012, 12:14 AM
Alright - I get the alum spacer length issue. You explained it correctly...but it was not clear to me 'til I saw a picture. So the ones I got are right after all. :thumbup:

I'm still a bit mystified about the BEC power rating, though. Yeah yeah - companies exaggerate the performance/ratings of their products. I get that. But when it comes to a discreet BEC...is it a question of how much amperage the servos pull? or how much amperage the BEC can tolerate coming into it? or how much amperage the BEC delivers to the servos?

On the website, it says:

"Output current: 3.5A (~8 standard servos, 4-6 digital)"

So I am assuming it is basically a step-down transformer...that lowers the voltage from the 22.2v delivered by the LiPo to 5v or 6v...and the amperage to (in this case) 3.5A. Although it's still a bit unclear, because...

Typically, devices that run on electricity PULL amperage; they don't have it PUSHED into them. So I don't get how the 3.5A BEC can be insufficient for four servos.

Without falling too deeply into the electrical engineering pool...can someone please provide some support to the "3.5A-is-not-nearly-enough-for-this-application" argument?

Many thanks!

Ron~FordTech
03-20-2012, 08:40 PM
Well - it's a lovely day here on the north shore of L. Ontario, and I couldn't resist spinning up the heli for its first hover since I bought (and overhauled) it.

Went well! Extremely brief, 'cuz I was between the houses (no space) but I lifted off in STUNT1 and it seems solid and level. :bacon

I've elected to fly it at the club field a bit before installing the 10A BEC, but I anticipate no problems.

(Yeah right)

Cheers!!

Starcruiser
03-21-2012, 02:46 PM
The BEC will brown Out under heavy load, i.e. extreme collective and cyclic moves (3D) this is due to the load being placed on the servo's. When this happens the current demand goes up and can reach close to 10amps! This is what causes a brown out and if you are flying a FBL unit you are in trouble due to a re-boot (CRASH!). When I upgraded my 550E V1 to a Vbar FS Blue line I added the CC BEC Pro to ensure I have enough overhead to handle surges. I do not do allot of 3D (if any :)) but I see it as cheap insurance for an expensive model. My 450's I will take the risk with using the built in's but the 550 I will not.

Ron~FordTech
03-21-2012, 03:58 PM
Well...it's not FBL, and I am gently maidening at this point. But are you saying put in the 10A BEC ASAP or are you saying I need a bigger BEC? :)