View Full Version : Question about programming the Jive ESC
I watched MrMel video on programming the Jive ESC. After he raised the throttle stick to select the mode, the Jive would make a confirmation beep. He then lowered the throttle stick then unplugged the power to the ESC.
I programmed my second Jive ESC yesterday (been a long time since I program the first one) on a T-Rex 700e. I first programmed mode 1 to reset, but I only raised the throttle stick then wait for the confirmation beep, then power down (did not lower throttle stick) I then select mode 4 using the same procedure.
The ESC is working fine as far as I can tell but the throttle percentage is kinda funny. Here is my set up:
Motor: Pyro 700-52
Main gear: 115T
JR X9303: end points both at -/+ 83%
Using MrMel calculator at ReadyHeli:
Headspeed on my T-Rex 700 spinning up without main/tail blades and looking through a Skytach tach (and also confirmed via EagleTree V3 recorder)
So it looked like the percentage throttle is about half of the calculator to give out for the same headspeed.
Did I make a mistake on programming the Jive by not lowering the throttle stick after the confirmation tone? Does it make any difference?
I plotted the EagleTree headspeed data on the Jive and found that the headspeed is dead on and very stable comparing to the old Castle 110HV ESC that the Jive replaced.
Should I fly with the 43% throttle in my TX right now?
01-30-2012, 07:28 PM
His headspeed cac is geared toward setting up your end points, when you programed mode 1 your end points should be 100/100 and after you program everything then you can calibrate your end points, and with your setup it says at 70% you should be at 1940 head speed,
Did you set everything back to original settings before you programed mode 1, like a linear curve on pitch and throttle curve ? did you program with the 12s or just the 6s plugged up just curious ?
I also do not lower the stick when programing the jive, I doubt that had anything to do with it.
You should do your first spool up with main and tail blades
01-30-2012, 07:30 PM
Dont know but would follow instructions and lower stick.
Not enough load without blades.
Let headsoeed lock in at 0 pitch midstick.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
01-30-2012, 07:33 PM
If lipo mode selected voltage cut off will be to low too. Do not fly till soft cutoff. Only way to change is with cars or Progdisc.
I have Progdisc and like it. Someone has 1 for sale here.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
When I was programming the mode, I was using +/- 100% for travel, 0, 50, 100 for the normal curve.
Yes, I calibrate the the end points the same as in the video. Mine started to arm at 80% so I set mine at -83% low and 83% high for throttle.
I programmed mine with 12S setup using the flight packs.
It is interesting to see that my throttle percentage is about half of the calculator to yield the same headspeed. In order to get 1950 rpm headspeed, I need program 40% throttle straight across on my TX. This is the first time that I did not use the internal BEC (v+ wire removed from connector to the AR7100 receiver) because I power my servos receiver directly from from a 2S LiFE pack so I don't know if this has anything to do with that.
01-30-2012, 08:31 PM
No the setup battery or flight power source ( BEC or Batt ) does not matter.
The governor does not work properly with out proper load. It may even loose communication with motor and alarm out. It varies PWM with speed and load and should have blades on for proper testing. Ok to spin up some with no blades, but should not spin up bare motor on the bench much without load.
The Pyro's can produce a little more RPM than calculated in the calculator, since they are mated to the Jive better.
I would hover with the blades and 50% flat throttle curve and tach then.
My 550 with Pyro tached a little higher than the calculator too, and will vary depending on battery makeup.
I have wondered if FL lights interfere with the shutter optical tachs too. I tached the spindle of the mill at work and Skytach read correct. I guess the FL lightiing does not interfere.
They will handle lower throttle but is harder on the Jive. Seems like it should be 60 -80 % with calibrated transmitter endpoints.
Just hover and see!
Thanks Larry. That is my plan this week. I will take it out and and have a friend tach it for me while I hover at 50% to see what the true headspeed is with proper load.
The set up is not new. I have been flying the T-Rex 700 for quite sometimes with a Castle 110HV ESC at 2000rpm. I dislike the CC governor so much (tail wagging unless running very low governor gain) that I have to get another Kontronic ESC for it (my 4th)
01-31-2012, 05:26 AM
When I program my JIVE I use a 6S pack but fly with 12S, should I be programming with the 12S pack? I use Mode 4,9&10
01-31-2012, 06:06 AM
No problem w/ the 6S.
Only w/ mode 11 (mode 5 in the H/JIVE) the JIVE is learning the relation throttle/rpm during the 1st spoolup, so needs to use the "operative battery".
I've solved the problem. Apparently, when programming the Jive ESC, lowering the throttle stick after the mode change confirmation made a world of difference. I did exactly like what MrMel video said and my problem went away.
I spooled up the heli with blades (on the ground with a little bit of negative) then read the headspeed on the SkyTach.
The headspeed are now:
I am happy :cheers
02-02-2012, 04:16 PM
do i need to have the ESC connected to the actual motor that will be used for flying, or can I connect it to any motor?
No. You need a motor connected to the ESC so that you can hear the beep because the ESC "oscillates" the motor to generate beep tones.