Which mods are worth it?

[rabidguineapig]

If anyone has any tips on which mods to get, it would be greatly appreciated.

[bpd282]

1) 3s Lipo Battery- No more than 110 grams. 110 grams if you are just learning to fly, 65 odd grams is about perfect for sporty flight.

2) Direct drive or dual tail modification is needed shortly after going to a 3s lipo.

3) Brushless main motor. Must have the DD or dual tail for this to really shine.

*If you have a regular CP, get the BH head.

[txflyer]

ya dd is ok, but now freestylehobbies.com has a belt drive tail kit for 100. that would be the best route but you need to go brushless on the main, and get a better 3s pack, the tp 910's would be idle.. superskids is also a great upgrade. ive dropped the stick with the heli at about 6ft it slammed into the ground and didnt break anything.. btw if you brake a skid on landing the heli will tip over and youve got a crash

[rabidguineapig]

I have the pro so I've already got the 3s lipo (2 of em). I've been lookin around online and found the GWS DD tail for $22.95. Should I get the brushless main motor or the DD tail first?

[txflyer]

its a hard call.the belt drive tail would be the best thing to buy, then dont install it till you have the brushless main... the brushless main is going to creat alot more torque. thestock tail will be hard pressed to handle it, do you have a hh gyro

[rabidguineapig]

No Gyro yet, I'm flying it almost stock and I've finally gone inverted, but I don't have enough power, so I think the Brushless might be a good idea, but if I put a GWS DD tail on it, would it hold up well enough with all the torque, or would it be better to go to a belt drive.

[txflyer]

get the gyro first

[rabidguineapig]

ok, thanks for the info, and do you know anything about the esky gyro? Is it a piece of crap, it's only $38...

[sdmahr]

I've had excellent luck with the ESKY gyro. Mine is the "Head Lock" model. I say go for it !

[rabidguineapig]

Ok, I'll give it a try, I've heard it works well and it's as cheap as I've seen for a gyro.

[rabidguineapig]

One more question, would the GWS DD tail keep up with the 370 Brushless?

[turnero]

I had a blade cp pro for about six months. I now own a trex s cf. Should have bought the rex long before. As far as upgrades my opinion would be only buy upgrades that could relate to something else. First get a decent transmitter and a good gyro, they can be used on a better heli. The 370 brushless motor that once was on my blade now powers a foamy combat plane. As far as a blade being cheaper to maintain than a trex not true. For the six months I had the blade I lost track of the money spent on it. In the same amount of time with the rex I've spent 35 dollars on one crash. If the trex is set up properly it does what you tell it precisely, something I could never get the blade to do.

[txflyer]

to be honest ive stripped my pro out tonight. i strapped my 1500 pack on that still had a few minutes of power left on it. and my pro flew like crap. i cant ever seem to get it trimmed out and set up right cuz im always fighting the tail. ive had my moments where its flown perfectly. but not consistant. my brushless 370 is going in my gws slow stick along with the 20amp esc. the g90 has made its way to my rex. it wont hold for anything other then hovering.. wich is all i need till i can afford a 401.. then my rx is now being wired to the rex...

if any one wants any parts lemme know.. for the right price my brushless main and g90 can be had. ive also got a set of still good cf blades. 4 spektrum s75 servos still in good condition. aluminum swahs plate, and cnc mixing arms..micro heli main gear. shaft is prolly bent tho..gws dd tail motor still good.

[sctholson]

Back to the original question;
Leave the head stock,
Super Skids
DD tail (or better yet belt, but then you also need a radio)

The bottom line on all these micros is that due to thier size, they are harder to fly. The Trex weighs in at avg. 600 grams, compared to the micro of 350-400grams.

My CPPro flies great now, I use the DD tail, but wish I could justify the $100plus 50 in spare parts for the Freestyle tail upgrade.
I also use ARC110 motor from LightFlight.com, Phoenix 10, 9 and 10T pinions, GWS 50j esc and CN12-rxc motor with 3030 or 3020 props (I have both and they both seem to work)
DX6 and AR6000.

If you want to eliminate motor tail issues, get the Belt at Freestyle, go to thier website and watch Gino's movie. It really does say it all.

Blade CPPro is a great "backyard bird" quote taken from others. It really depends on what you want to do with this sport.
If you can learn to fly the Micro without damaging it all the time, anything else will be a dream
Scott

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

Upgrades that are worth it to me:

Thunder Power 900mah 3 cell LiPo. the stock LiPo is barely adequate.

GWS DD tail motor and 3020 prop, much much better than the stock setup.

Brushless main with a Phoenix 10 ESC by CC.

Heading Hold Gyro.

Computer transmitter.

[futura]

IMO - leave it stock and learn to fly. It can be flown well stock if your good enough.

If you must upgrade, For the best upgrade results, I suggest a better radio TX, RX and servos...use the Eflite 2in1 to drive and mix still brushed main and tail with the tail being a direct drive with a G90 hh gyro. Simply time the motor life and replace regularly (...before failure). Consider the cost the same as you would fuel for a nitro machine. You can buy hundreds of hours of brushed motors for the price of a full brushless upgrade. The Radio upgrade and gyro will provide the control lacking in the stock unit. The 2n1 handles more amps and you can use the 10t or even 11t pinion to get more head speed.

A brushless motor on the main requires a better motor on the tail....or belt drive. If not belt, than brushless motors on both blade pairs is best. A brushless tail requires a heading hold gyro and quality esc. If your lacking power and are confident your collective management is not lacking, you'll need to go brushless.

All this is highly debated...so this is just another opinion. In any case...at some point you will have to simply be happy with what you have and fly....even if you go to a mini (like a Trex) it will be the same. Your either upgrading or learning to fly what you have.

[flynn]

what does DD stand for. Probably a dumb question, but I see belt drive, dual motor and DD. Help.

Flynn

[sctholson]

direct Drive

[chopperdudes]

upgrades:
good tx, will make it a different bird.
good lipo (tp910 for 3D, 1320 for learning)
dd tail with hh gyro, holds the tail
cf blades if flying over grass, never broken a set when crashing on grass, including giving full + pitch when inverted :arggg:
DO NOT get the bl motor UNLESS you have a different tail esc. even with the dd tail, the stock tail esc won't supply enough current to hold the tail against the torque of the bl motor. i assume that with a bl motor, you want to do 3D, if that is the case, then you HAVE to get a different tail esc. i went bl, and am now back to brushed. doing flat sideway tic tocs and am having fun. with the dd tail and brushed main, the tail will hold very well, (not rock solid during flips and 3D, but good enough, about 10 degree movement the most i'd say)
these are basically it, you won't really need any more upgrades.

general mods.
if you ever break a skid, don't worry. cut the strut part at the skid, drill a hold from the bottom of the skid up, stick a cf rod up, wrap the joint with string, put few drops of CA on the string. i don't know, but every since, i haven't the need to change skids... may be up to par with superskid without the weight.
fuse on motor, protect the 3 in 1 in case you aren't fast enough at shutting the throttle.
advance main motor timing, desolder the capacitors, turn endbell cw (with can stationary) about 5~10 degrees, will give you more power.
flybar weight out for stability, in/off for 3D.
put few drops of CA on the paddle control frame where it meets the collar, careful not to get it on the set screw. will strengthen the paddle ctr. frame.

mods. (for 3D)
get a trex 220 flybar, you'll have to drill the head and the paddle control frame, but will make it more stable YET faster cyclic. and it's REALLY hard to bend the flybar.
romove flybar weights
rotate bell mixer arm 180 degree and flip it so that the side that used to face the rotor head is facing outside. connect the short side of the mixer to the swash and long side to the head. this alters the b/h ratio and makes cyclic >2x faster. however, this will decrease stability and increase pitchiness in ff.
max out your travel on your radio, don't worry if it binds alittle in the corners, you'll not likely go to the corners.
make your throttle curve 100% idle up one, and pitch curve 0, 20, 50, 80, 100 or so so that ur pitch is more sensitive around midstick, good for 3d, but not good for perfect hovering.
might want to invest in lightened hornet paddles for even faster cyclic.

that basically sums it up.

[Funky]

The heading hold gyro was the best upgrade I made to my Pro... followed by switching radios.

[chopperdudes]

i could never get the stock tail to hold on a hh gyro with dd tail though.

[Funky]

I have an old video of my Pro with the G90 and stock tail. Nothing fancy though, just hovering. I'm not sure if the link still works, google video is blocked at my work.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6935561688553999806

[txflyer]

as the eflite packs are used the tail will drift. you have retrim it during flight.. if you get a better pack then the tail should hold find for hovering..

[Mortificate]

I would say (for me) the best mods have been the Freestyle belt mod and the G90. There are several other things that I like on my CPP but the above two mods made the biggest differance on my heli.

[eddo22]

hh gyro, computer tx