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photocycler
02-23-2012, 10:38 PM
So im stuck at a really stupid part, seems the mini manual has the mixing arms backwards so after assembling mixing arms I am now trying to remove the pin and having difficulty

anyone have a suggestion for removing the pin from the mixing arms..:arggg::arggg:

alexf1852
02-23-2012, 11:14 PM
I did that to one arm. I also put a pic in a thread about the new FBL kit how the arms should go Hoping others would see it and not make the same mistake I did.

To get the pin out, try using a ball link plier and a small thin nail that is used to put up small picture frame. Try to squeeze the nail and push out the pin.

Edit: Here's the link to the post with the pic:
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=3436988&postcount=3

photocycler
02-23-2012, 11:42 PM
I did that to one arm. I also put a pic in a thread about the new FBL kit how the arms should go Hoping others would see it and not make the same mistake I did.

To get the pin out, try using a ball link plier and a small thin nail that is used to put up small picture frame. Try to squeeze the nail and push out the pin.

Edit: Here's the link to the post with the pic:
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=3436988&postcount=3

Thx for that, that is where i was looking when i saw I had it backwards...I will give the ball pliers a try

photocycler
02-24-2012, 10:52 PM
ok hoping to buy my tail servo and FBL unit this weekend

So the finless video showed him running the tail servo on the opposite side, is that my best bet?

d1esel
02-25-2012, 12:14 AM
Mounting the tail servo on the left offers some protection against flybar, and possibly main blade impact during a crash. Place your elevator servo on the opposite side of the tail servo to help balance the heli.

photocycler
02-25-2012, 11:16 AM
Mounting the tail servo on the left offers some protection against flybar, and possibly main blade impact during a crash. Place your elevator servo on the opposite side of the tail servo to help balance the heli.

I will be flybarless but still sounds like a good idea unless there are any negative effects of running it that way?


Also where can I find info on grounding the boom, I assume that is necessary?

Thalios
02-25-2012, 04:50 PM
If you have the latest version, no need to ground the boom. (It has some lines in the plastic).

I have not grounded mine, and it works fine.

photocycler
02-25-2012, 04:56 PM
If you have the latest version, no need to ground the boom. (It has some lines in the plastic).

I have not grounded mine, and it works fine.

Thx

Just got the AR7200BX home, going to work on the servo centering and get the main servo frame in today.

Anyone point me to some DX7s settings?

photocycler
02-27-2012, 02:32 PM
Ok pair of Gens Ace 2500 packs ordered and savox tail servo..should be dialing in the beast this week for a weekend maiden

flyfishsick
02-27-2012, 06:56 PM
pics!!! pics!!! where are the pics!!!! :rolling

photocycler
02-29-2012, 12:20 AM
pics!!! pics!!! where are the pics!!!! :rolling

Pics will be coming shortly

So battery's will be here tomorrow and I plan to work on beastX setup this weekend.

Do I need a digital pitch gauge to setup pitch?

Would I be better off with EC3 or EC5 for my 2500 packs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

alexf1852
02-29-2012, 12:30 AM
Pics will be coming shortly

So battery's will be here tomorrow and I plan to work on beastX setup this weekend.

Do I need a digital pitch gauge to setup pitch?

Would I be better off with EC3 or EC5 for my 2500 packs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes, you will need some type of pitch gauge. EC5s are too big for this size bird and not necessary. I prefer XT60 over the EC3. But EC3 are fine too.

Thalios
02-29-2012, 11:14 AM
I use EC5.

EC3 are, I think, rated for max 60A.

Dead Meat
02-29-2012, 11:48 AM
EC5 here as well, like them a lot.

alexf1852
02-29-2012, 12:15 PM
That rating is 60 amps continuous. The Protos does not pull that much continuously. The average may be 30 to 45 amps over a hard 3d flight. Unless of course you're running a custom wound high powered motor with 470 blades.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

photocycler
02-29-2012, 09:41 PM
Got my Savox 1290 MG tail servo, had a couple questions

1) I plan to run it backwards per finless videos, do I need to do anything different for setup, shoudl the servo wheel still be closet to the rear of the heli as if I were running it on the other side?

2) The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

wbefield
02-29-2012, 10:03 PM
The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

I used a dremel ground the shorter single holed adaptors so they would clear the ridge.

I have photos in post 18 in my build thread.
www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield's&page=2 (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield%27s&page=2)

Jomaba4308
02-29-2012, 10:06 PM
Got my Savox 1290 MG tail servo, had a couple questions

1) I plan to run it backwards per finless videos, do I need to do anything different for setup, shoudl the servo wheel still be closet to the rear of the heli as if I were running it on the other side?

2) The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

1) Install the servo as a mirror image from what is shown in the manual.

2) I had the same problem with my cyclic servos so I used a dremel to cut off most of the ridges and a fine file to make it flush with the tab and servo case.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk

photocycler
02-29-2012, 10:08 PM
I used a dremel ground the shorter single holed adaptors so they would clear the ridge.

I have photos in post 18 in my build thread.
www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield's&page=2 (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield%27s&page=2)

1) Install the servo as a mirror image from what is shown in the manual.

2) I had the same problem with my cyclic servos so I used a dremel to cut off most of the ridges and a fine file to make it flush with the tab and servo case.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk

perfect, thx guys

photocycler
02-29-2012, 11:48 PM
Should I setup the ESC before setting up the BeastX?

I think I am going to govern at 2500 which should be a good docile setting, didn't get the YGE program card but may get it if it makes for an easier setup


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d1esel
03-01-2012, 02:11 AM
The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

It's not necessary to mod your tail servo. The servo adapters go on the under side of the tail servo. There is a recessed groove in the servo mounts to accommodate the ridge on top of the servo mounting tabs.

photocycler
03-03-2012, 10:08 AM
Still waiting for my ball link sizer as some links are tight

Also waiting for pitch gauge but I may see how far in the beastX setup I can go

Got my servo arms at 90, I assume the next step is to level mixing arms? Anyone have the length for the links?

BlazinBones
03-03-2012, 11:26 AM
Still waiting for my ball link sizer as some links are tight

Also waiting for pitch gauge but I may see how far in the beastX setup I can go

Got my servo arms at 90, I assume the next step is to level mixing arms? Anyone have the length for the links?

On my set up, the 3 links from the servos to swash are 28mm ( thats the size of the exposed part of the rod, not the total length). On the swash to blade grips is 53mm (part of the rod thats exposed as well and not the total length). This put me right at 0* on the blades with all cyclic servos at 90*.

As far as the BX, you'll be able to do everything without a pitch gauge, except for step J as well as setting your roll pitch and collective pitch which is no biggie. Once you get your gauge, it's a snap to go back to those steps and setup quickly. Just make sure when you are setting your pitch with a digital gauge, that your swashplate is level with the horizon as the Protos 500 have a rake which makes the tail higher in a normal stance.

I placed a digital angle finder on my boom block (if you have the BX mounted there, then put right on top of the BX) and shimmed the front part of my skids till the gauge read "0". Then I proceeded to set my Roll and Collective pitch.

photocycler
03-03-2012, 02:43 PM
On my set up, the 3 links from the servos to swash are 28mm ( thats the size of the exposed part of the rod, not the total length). On the swash to blade grips is 53mm (part of the rod thats exposed as well and not the total length). This put me right at 0* on the blades with all cyclic servos at 90*.

As far as the BX, you'll be able to do everything without a pitch gauge, except for step J as well as setting your roll pitch and collective pitch which is no biggie. Once you get your gauge, it's a snap to go back to those steps and setup quickly. Just make sure when you are setting your pitch with a digital gauge, that your swashplate is level with the horizon as the Protos 500 have a rake which makes the tail higher in a normal stance.

I placed a digital angle finder on my boom block (if you have the BX mounted there, then put right on top of the BX) and shimmed the front part of my skids till the gauge read "0". Then I proceeded to set my Roll and Collective pitch.

great thx, is there a trick to fasten the ESC with the supplied O-Ring? I fastened the ring to the frame mounts and the ESC is floating around and not being fastened

BlazinBones
03-03-2012, 03:27 PM
great thx, is there a trick to fasten the ESC with the supplied O-Ring? I fastened the ring to the frame mounts and the ESC is floating around and not being fastened

I used velcro under the battery mounting plate and the flat side of the ESC and it stays put very well. I also use an Align strap for the battery instead of the rubber orings, so that also ads extra support for the esc as it runs right under it.