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photocycler
03-03-2012, 09:27 PM
I used velcro under the battery mounting plate and the flat side of the ESC and it stays put very well. I also use an Align strap for the battery instead of the rubber orings, so that also ads extra support for the esc as it runs right under it.

Perfect thx, unfortunately...seems my new DX7s scroll wheel died and now can't get into setup to switch to the model I need to setup the protos..err


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photocycler
03-07-2012, 10:06 PM
while I wait the return of my DX7s from HH service, I purchased a JR ball link sizing tool to size the ball links, seems its too big and doesnt fit.

Can anyone recommend a way to size the ball links without a tool, I see there is a tool msh sells for the mini which may work but dont see it in stock

alexf1852
03-07-2012, 10:12 PM
It's the same tool that comes with the 500. If you can find it, get it. Check Amain, ExperienceRC, ReadyHeli, HeliDirect, ElektroRC, or ask MSH-Direct (pm him).

photocycler
03-07-2012, 10:14 PM
It's the same tool that comes with the 500. If you can find it, get it. Check Amain, ExperienceRC, ReadyHeli, HeliDirect, ElektroRC, or ask MSH-Direct (pm him).


so I should have one in my kit?

d1esel
03-07-2012, 11:00 PM
I don't think the link sizer comes with the kits anymore, mine didn't. No reason to buy one. Make one out of your spare FB parts. Take an extra ball, thread it on to a cross ball, and then score the ball a couple times with a razor knife. It works like a charm, you will have a perfectly sized link.

http://www.helifreak.com/picture.php?albumid=8695&pictureid=69557

photocycler
03-10-2012, 01:05 PM
Such a long build...sent my DX7s in for repair (brand new by the way)

So I am sitting waiting for my TX and still need to do the following

- set beastX up
- set YGE up

I have run thru a million time and checked everything else while I wait, anyone recommend anything else I can do while I wait?

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photocycler
03-11-2012, 08:00 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-3c66-daca.jpg

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

wbefield
03-11-2012, 08:22 PM
so I should have one in my kit?

I received a ball link sizer in my kit which was purchased in January

Jomaba4308
03-11-2012, 09:05 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-3c66-daca.jpg

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

That is fine as long as they don't bind on anything, the only purpose those arms serve is to drive the inner swash ring.

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crickr1
03-11-2012, 09:42 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-3c66-daca.jpg

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?
Photocycler, not important to be level but, usually are with stock parts. Make sure you have equal travel +/- after your servos are "Centered". You can then work backward if you need to, readjust links from servo to swash, then swash to blades. Ideally you want, Servos centered, blades "0" pitch, swash at center of travel. Swash locks not important. But 0 pitch centered travel is priority.

alexf1852
03-11-2012, 09:50 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-3c66-daca.jpg

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

It's hard to tell from the photo, but make sure that the servo rods have about equal lengths of thread showing at both ends. It seems like the link is almost all the way out of the servo rod at the servo end.

Also tilt back a little more your anti-rotation bracket. Make sure you're using the right holes for that.

d1esel
03-11-2012, 10:06 PM
Photocycler, It looks like you have the link balls wrong on the swash. The longer balls go on the outside where the links from the servos connect. The elevator link looks like it's at an excessive angle. What distance are the servo horn balls? They should be 16mm.

photocycler
03-11-2012, 11:09 PM
It's hard to tell from the photo, but make sure that the servo rods have about equal lengths of thread showing at both ends. It seems like the link is almost all the way out of the servo rod at the servo end.

Also tilt back a little more your anti-rotation bracket. Make sure you're using the right holes for that.

yea crappy picture, they are equal

I tilted the anti-rotation back, I am running it in the hold closet to the swash


Photocycler, It looks like you have the link balls wrong on the swash. The longer balls go on the outside where the links from the servos connect. The elevator link looks like it's at an excessive angle. What distance are the servo horn balls? They should be 16mm.

sorry, can you explain how it is wrong, I used the stock savox servo horns which appear to be greater then 16mm, I may have to move in a hole

wbefield
03-11-2012, 11:48 PM
it looks to me like the long balls are on the upper swash, when the short balls should be there instead. The longer balls should be on the lower swash. Not sure if that will be enough to fix your linkage geometry, but it will get part of the way there.

photocycler
03-11-2012, 11:54 PM
it looks to me like the long balls are on the upper swash, when the short balls should be there instead. The longer balls should be on the lower swash. Not sure if that will be enough to fix your linkage geometry, but it will get part of the way there.


the balls on the top and bottom are same length with the exception of the 2 longer balls that came with the FBL kit that I used on the top swash plate connecting to the mixer arms, is that incorrect?

I have since moved the balls in on my servo arms and got a much straighter path for the links

wbefield
03-12-2012, 12:05 AM
with the long balls up top, I didn't feel like there was enough clearance and that they could make contact with the lower swash, so I changed them all the the short balls.

photocycler
03-12-2012, 12:26 AM
with the long balls up top, I didn't feel like there was enough clearance and that they could make contact with the lower swash, so I changed them all the the short balls.

since there are only 2 longer balls, did you just swap them with the ailerons and keep the elevator the short?

photocycler
03-12-2012, 12:37 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-7d2d-89bc.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/181677d8-7d38-950d.jpg

Ok switched servo arms ball links to 16mm (inner hole)

Swapped 2 cone ball links from upper swash mixer arms to lower swash ailerons

d1esel
03-12-2012, 12:55 AM
You need three longer balls.

d1esel
03-12-2012, 01:07 AM
If your head geometry is not set up correctly your BeastX won’t be happy. You need to be able to achieve the required collective and cyclic pitch with adequate resolution. Think of resolution as servo travel, more servo travel equals more resolution. FBL controllers typically require high resolution for best performance. Improper link ball location anywhere in the servo horns, swash, or grips will give you a compromised setup.

photocycler
03-12-2012, 01:32 AM
You need three longer balls.


Ok cool, I got it, thx guys

d1esel
03-12-2012, 01:36 AM
You need the ones in the FBL kit (MSH51120).
http://www.readyheli.com/MSH51120-Flybarless-Long-Control-Balls-Protos_p_35631.html

Wouldn't it be nice if Tammie's carried MSH.

photocycler
03-12-2012, 02:18 AM
Ok wow..good to go, that shouldn't been as confusing for me as it was...all settled

Now Im on to adjusting blade pitch and with equal links, one side is a few degrees off, this leads me to believe something else may not be right as I thought equal links should give equal pitch?

photocycler
03-13-2012, 01:18 AM
Ok long balls on lower swash, short on upper, ball links on servo arms are at 16mm,

When adjusting cyclic on my beastX the servo arms are hitting the frame when I get the blue light. Any recommendations how to fix this?


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d1esel
03-13-2012, 12:29 PM
Double check the ball distance on your servo horns. I have some four sided Savox horns, and the outside hole is 16.5mm next hole in is 13.25mm. If their hitting the frame, you will have to move the balls back out. I had a similar issue setting up my vbar. Seems to be a bit of a design limitation with the Protos.