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View Full Version : Is there a really smooth head out there for the CP?


MonsterMaxx
06-18-2007, 05:34 PM
So I got my hands on this tired little cp and a friend of mine's graveyard of parts and have fixed it up quite a bit so far.

Total replacement of the head.

I can't get the head/flybar nice and free like it is on my rex and in finless's vids.

I think this is why it's so jumpy in the sky. It's really flighty now. Up/Down. Tail stays pretty steady considering how it's jumping up and down/side to side - twitchy.

I've improved it a lot from where I started and the smoother I can make it seems the better it flys, but can't seem to get it really smooth and free like the rex is.

Which I'm guessing is why the rex flys so much smoother...?yes? the flybar and head mechanism is so much smoother is part of what makes it so smooth?

Is this the endless PIA about this head (efllight bell-hiller) and I should stop mucking with it and get it with a good head from the aftermarket?

If there's a smooth, well made head for this and wasn't too expensive I'd go that way and be done with the plastic.

BCCP/BellHiller/metal swash/eflight gyro/new servos/cc10&bl/ddtail/tp950

Any suggestions you have in this area are greatly welcome.

txflyer
06-18-2007, 05:44 PM
the ball links are prolly to tight. try pinching them between some pliers that are smooth and have the lines cut in them.. when you pinch them it actually opens them up alittle i didnt have to good of success doing this with my rex.. but it work for the cpp. if your interested and if this guy actually ships out the stuff he has promised to me today. i will have a silver cnc microheli head. never used just needs links..pm me if your interested.

MonsterMaxx
06-18-2007, 09:25 PM
How's this HDX head they sell on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/3dx300-HDX300-Blade-CP-CNC-head-combo-V2-Blade-TX_W0QQitemZ250131200388QQihZ015QQcategoryZ2563QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)?

sctholson
06-18-2007, 09:35 PM
I've found the stock head to work more consistently than my Microheli head.
Before ditching what you have, take apart each component and identify what is binding. When you find it, fix it. and reassemble. It has to be that one part that you overlooked.
It will get smooth if you take the time and look at each component. And I second the comments about the ball links. get'm to fit well and the heli will fly smooth.
Good luck

txflyer
06-18-2007, 09:37 PM
its more of a pita to get setup but ive talked to a good amount of people that use the microheli head. once they got it setup dead on they dont have to mess with it..

sctholson
06-18-2007, 10:47 PM
txflyer,
I'm more than willing to bring my Microheli head back to life, can you suggest any links to the "setup dead on" that you refer to?
I like the bling, just can't get it to work consistently.
Thanks

txflyer
06-18-2007, 10:58 PM
what problems are you having. i didnt dwell to much into but my questions to owner and users of the head where, ive heard alot people say there junk. i was then told in almost the same words from every that its a pain to get setup, but once it is, you dont really have to mess with it again..

since i am having one shipped i hope .long story. im still debating on using it for the bling factor. but id like to know what problems you where having with it..

MonsterMaxx
06-18-2007, 11:03 PM
Several links are tight. Looks like I need the reamer and ball end tools for this size (like I have for the rex)

Where can I get the reamer & ball plyers for this size?

sctholson
06-18-2007, 11:09 PM
I found that the center hub and the seesaw to be one of the problems and the other was keeping the orings fitting well. I think the o-rings can be overcome with the right number of dampeners to get the side to side spacing just right. If this is too loose than the orings want to come half out and tear.

But the center hub and the seesaw is my biggest concern and one that I cannot overcome. The wear between these two components is tremendous. The seesaw takes most of the wear and loosens up and gets very sloppy.
I've replaced it once and shimmed it another time.

One other thing to look out for is that the ball bolts/links on the Microheli swash (if you are getting one) are larger than the ball bolts/links on the stock swash. Making the initial fit the most important part of the set up.

By the way, I wouldn't call the head junk, I would say it needs a better seesaw part. It could be how I set it up, so any suggestions would be great.

And in contrast, the stock head just works for me. I did a neat mod to the blade grips that eliminates issues with the mixer arms. So, stock is good (for me anyway).

sctholson
06-18-2007, 11:13 PM
MonsterMaxx,
They don't make one. Some suggestions in the past, allen wrench (ball end), Squeeze the ball link with pliers (works sometimes) or what I do is use a dremel end (I think it is a 1/8" round metal cutter) I spin this by hand on the ball link. (don't over do it though you want the ball links just loose enough that they fall under their own weight but not loose enough that gives you side to side play.
Try the pliers first.
Several links are tight. Looks like I need the reamer and ball end tools for this size (like I have for the rex)

Where can I get the reamer & ball plyers for this size?

txflyer
06-18-2007, 11:16 PM
have you tryed bearings in the blade grips ? one quick thing that mh should have changed but you could actually fix your self.drill it out slightly larger and find a brass ring that will hold well against the main shaft and be pressed into it. have you tryed to lube the main shaft ? ive got a eflite cnc swash. and plan on using it..

monster i dont know what size they are. you should post that in one of the main forums i guess it could go in off topic.. ginocp could very well know...

txflyer
06-18-2007, 11:17 PM
http://helifreak.com/viewforum.php?f=1

put it there

sctholson
06-18-2007, 11:31 PM
have you tryed bearings in the blade grips ? one quick thing that mh should have changed but you could actually fix your self.drill it out slightly larger and find a brass ring that will hold well against the main shaft and be pressed into it. have you tryed to lube the main shaft ? ...
I used a second "bearing" looked more like a spacer. This "bearing" fits inside the MH head before the O-ring. I've read others doing this successfully, but the two bearings was so stiff that I got an immediate wobble and said, "nope, not for me".
I think a real ball bearing would be too stiff and cause the wobble. Like I mentioned in my previous post, using feathering shaft stiffeners worked for me.
Oh yeah, I remember one other big issue with the MH head, the tiny screws to secure it to the shaft. There are two, and they must line up perfectly with the holes in the shaft. When done right, the screws just fit the holes in the shaft. That's ideal, but don't tighten them up. you will need to see if the shaft spins true first, if it doesn't than loosen one of the screws and start messing around with the position of the opposing screws until you get a true spin. (sorry I forgot this in my first post). This issue had me talking to myself.
I've never had this problem with the stock head.

txflyer
06-18-2007, 11:38 PM
would sticking something half way through the hole to hold it in place while you put the screw in the other side first ? i think the wobble goes away with higher head speed. the book that came with the cpp talk about it. where you brushless or brushed ?

sctholson
06-18-2007, 11:51 PM
You will get very good with aligning the head/hole/grub screw. But not very good at the wobble elimination. I have used the MH head with stock brushed and brushless.
Regarding the wobble going away at higher head speed.... the wobble will never really go away, it is still there. It's just be at faster speeds, and it may shake you heli apart, or cause the gyro to get confused. I don't really like to fly my heli with the landing gear shaking violently.
(do I sound harsh?)
Anyway, Bling in my opinion is supposed to be an improvement. I just never mastered this "bling" component.
Please, by all means try this and, explain to me how I can do it differently/better.
sorry to change the subject on you, but one bling that is better is the Freestyle belted modification. Now that's something that users have raved about, and I want one.
Just not now.
Go for it and let me know what you think!

txflyer
06-19-2007, 12:00 AM
im going to pm the last guy i talked to about it and see what he says..

noguy
06-19-2007, 12:01 AM
Whenever my cp's head acted like your describing it was the either:
-The center hub & head assembly.. head not sliding freely on the center hub under power.
-The mixing arms werent moving freely....
Try a little lubricant....everyone has there 2cent on what to use just make sure its safe for plastic.

Kindling Maker
06-19-2007, 04:53 AM
CLP what the Military uses on the M-16 is great I sticks where you want and it is not expensive, A little bottle will last forever. You can pick it up at your local gun shop.