Al's TDR Project

[jointer]

Raising the cyclic up to 100 will give you more agility (some of us done that for better feeling) and 100 at collective setup should be around mechanical limit (bit over 14,5 deg nearing 15).

[CyprusFlyer]

OK thanks, will leave as is for now and see how it flies.
Put the ESC into Mode 2 for stage check (gasser/linear speed control), Tail on and setup Vbar. Quick spool up with no main blades confirmed that Tail direction and gyro sense correct. Even at low RPM that tail has some awesome power, almost impossible to move off point!
Mechanics sounding sweet :-)

[CyprusFlyer]

Well I have ground run at low speed without main blades on for about 20 mins on and off, just like the engineers do on full size after major maintenance - assembly. Anyway, moveing the main rotor by hand and felt a strange backlash feeling that wasnt there before!

Bottom line was I traced to the torque tube by feeling main against tail drives, stripped the boom and a grub screw had worked loose that holds the TT dog clutch to the tail beval gear shaft. No locktite, not even tight! I am usually beter than this, so a confessional here. However, ground run showed up the flaw in no time, no damage done.:face

Also, my crown/tail beval gear now tunes at a quiet spot where it should be, must have worn in a bit, trust Jan the meastro :thumbup:

A good day flying my 550 but also putting together a Logo, soldered up the Kontronic ESC, connected and went to program, pulled out the link from JMP, that was easy, nothing, all three of the bloody pins were not there, couldnt believe it! Off topic but surprised at Kontronic QC

[ZuvieleTeile]

You mean all the pins in the data/jumper port where missin?

[Groucho_]

Yes, were the pins in the 'bind plug' missing? Or were the pins in the ESC the ones that are not there?

[CyprusFlyer]

Its the three pins in the port marked JMP, comes with a two pin jumper for programming and Jlog data, see photo, strange. The simple 2 pin jumper would be easy to make, this is DOA.

[Groucho_]

Please tell me that this is a joke and you're proficient in photoshop...

Unbelievable and shameful...

[CyprusFlyer]

Wish it was, now have to go through the nause of sending it back, delays getting it replaced etc, to be fair my supplier has promised a quick resolution, only got the Logo kit on Thursday, glad I tested this so soon.

[CyprusFlyer]

Great flying day and a bit more work on the TDR, ground runs without mains, happy with the mechanics now. Guys at the flying club keep on goading me to get it flying, told them the story about ground runs and build flaw revealed (patience grasshopper).
Made some straps up for 2 CF plates for the batteries, working out how to slide the assembly in and secure. Sounds trivial but took quite a while to get it niggle free! Nothing worse than having to faf around on the flight line, leads to mistakes.

So, dispensed with the Emcotec and abandoned the spark reducer due to complication and the ESC wiring was getting stiff and cumbersome.

Leaving it alone for a day or two, fresh eye on it, go over every thing with a fine tooth comb and recheck-finish Vbar, main blade set up, anxious times ahead.

[Groucho_]

Curious to know what you manage to do with the CF battery tray...

I tried with a T-Rex 600 tray, and with the made-for-TDR tray from that German site, but they turned out to be more hassle than they were worth. Especially with the battery cables getting in the way.

Eventually I scrapped the idea and went with the stock setup.

[CyprusFlyer]

Well, have the German bespoke plates, so far I have velcro on the bottom plate and batteries, otherwise the batteries move in the plates.
Biggest pain was the buckles on the stock straps, so, using basic velcros strap (furry), i glued a smaller strip of hook on the back of it to make a simple wrap x 4 to fit in the slots. (Evostic/contact adhesive is perfect)
Then I need 2 stock to secure the lot, maybe another at the front.
Will trial some more but like the idea when using 2 x 6S.

Also weighed my creation with accurate scales, flying weight is 5.12 Kg, slightly over spec, thats with 4.5 Ahr Lipos and heavier Radix F3C blades.

[CyprusFlyer]

Nothing worse than having a lot of hassle when preparing the Heli for flight . Improved the battery tray method no end last night, happy now I have a solution:

a. Dispense with the top plate, more room above the better, need it to guide the tray and raise off the lower silicone tubes, also more room for Velcro.

b.. Large Velcro patches on battery bottom and CF plate, no point having great friction on silicon tubes only to create a slippery surface again.

c. Made 4 simple Velcro straps of furry stuff for a wrap around the battery, glued on a hook strip at one end with contact adhesive. Now, I found that the main problem was velcro catching on the side frames, therefore, I ensure that there is only one layer at the sides so all the overlap is on top of the battery. ( 3 Layers where it overlaps, not helpful at the sides).

d. Slides in very easy now, watching the wires and use fingers below to let it ride above the lower silicon tubes, 2 straps and were done, cannot move the assembly one bit with a lot of force!


e. Thinking of devising some sort of restraining clip method to further secure the tray so that it cannot fly forward, difficult to see how it could now though, but its like most things, flying sailing etc, always on the lookout to defeat Sods law".

[Groucho_]

Battery tray assay looks good... Well done ! :thumbup:

Maybe one day I'll rethink mine... For now I'll be using with default setup, but with two straps per battery.

All you need to keep your batteries from shooting forwards is another velcro strap at the very front of the frame - Horizontally across both frames. I do this too - For a total of five straps :YeaBaby:

[CyprusFlyer]

Only problem is wires at the front, then again may try it with ist battery turned 90* dont need the top level now and I havent done the other 6 batteries yet so still time.:thumbup:

[CyprusFlyer]

YES, we have it, front battery turns 90, there is slightly more room at the sides so more clearance for rear battery cables. Front restrainer does not crush front battery cables and no way a shunt will crush the rear battery cables, win win win. Its this sort if detail that takes time but worth it. :banana

Oh, and my coffee jar is full again lol.

Wife away for 10 days, therefore I have heli's in the kitchen, lounge as ornaments on the coffee table, great, no one to make food though :-(

[Groucho_]

My front battery had to be turned just like yours. I have it the other way around though to be able to connect the small telemetry TX to that battery's balance plug.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=314491&stc=1&d=1336396602

[jointer]

Is that Quanum telemetry module? How well it is working, is having per cell alarms useful and enough for good estimate of used capacity?

[Groucho_]

Yes, it's a Quanum unit.

I have one on all my helis.

I don't really look at the display in flight, though it's good to know what your pack and cell voltages are before a flight. No chance of accidentally using a discharged pack either...

In flight I have two alarms warning me when any cell goes below two preset levels, and another one or two (I can't remember) warning me when pack voltage goes below a preset level.

With my 550, I get lots of warnings each time I pull a loop, or do anything that sucks battery power quickly and briefly. I can't remember if I got any on the TDR - I flew just the once, and I was only listening to that nice motor sound.

Although I also have a Spektrum TM unit on my 550, I preferred to use just the Quanum on the TDR. It keeps things as minimalistic as possible. As you can see, it's not even permanently mounted... I just place it on top of the front battery each time. I wouldn't fly without it though... It's too cheap an insurance against running out of volts...

[CyprusFlyer]

Hmm something else to try lol, I have the Spektrum Telemetry should try that first.
Looking forward to the motor and blade sounds, I did manage to pick up what sounds like an engine with tappets sort of ticking noise I have heard on Youtube videos whilst ground running.

Also I want 2 head speeds the 1400 and 1850, do we find that Jan's flat lines work out for the Helijive?
Mels calculator says that 1400 not possible! May be a duff input on my part.

[Groucho_]

No, they're not even in the same playing field...

On the Helijive I had these values set a while back during testing.

52% 1350 RPM
55% 1450 RPM
58% 1550 RPM

But now to get more or less the same headspeeds I had to change the throttle values...

39% 1300 RPM
46% 1450 RPM
49% 1550 RPM

I am using mode 6, and I thought that the first values were from mode 6 also, but maybe I had it set to mode 4 or 5. I really can't remember.

[CyprusFlyer]

Thanks, but still a bit woolly, I have the Heli Jive version, intend using Mode 4 (Yes my 120 HV has the 3 pins in it lol), will try out the Android HS app, calibrate with that, check with the Jlog and hopefully final conf this weekend if someone has a Tacho on site.

[CyprusFlyer]

A little more work, redone the power cables, put more heatshrink where its cable tied to different points, warmer fuzzy feeling now thats done.

Jlog installed for the first time, worked perfectly, logs make complete sense. Also made a link plug to program the Heli Jive, its reverse gender now so I can remove the Jlog lead and program from there.

Titivated a bit with edge protection, of all the stuff ive tried, normal electrical wire insulation cut off and stuck with contact adhesive worked best for me. Of course that adhesive stays rubbery too :-)

Very happy with the avionics, every thing in tight and fitted nicely.

Just need a final review of everything, stick some blades on it, finish Vbar setup and good to go I think. :clappp

BTW, holding a 5kg heli and considering the consequences of that falling as dead weight doesnt bear thinking about!

[CyprusFlyer]

Fitted the blades, looking cool, but accurately measured 10mm of play at the tips due to the design of the head feathering shaft/bushes ok.
Manual says:
"With mounted blades and after some flights you can measure about 3-5mm at the blade tips after all parts are set. The rotor can be tilted without problems by this amount. This is intended and the reason for this construction".

So is mine normal or excessive in practise? I have the stock Black O rings in there (I know they are),

[CyprusFlyer]

Vbar done, dead easy 2nd time around, didnt have to change any links as I gauged it with the white blocks during the build, tracking will hopefully be fine, both blades same pitch exactly.

Checked over again, run up with main blades, wow, last Feb my 550 was intimidating, this is awsome. Anyway, ESC to Mode 4 with bailout, checked with no blades first, then put them on. Set 40% throttle and my Android app gave me 1377 Rpm, Jlog 1370, looking for 1400 Flt mode 1, but must calibrate with a fully charged pack.
Then looking for 1850 for Flt mode 2. Normal mode going for 1400 but only 3-4 deg negative pitch and a zero throttle start, so spool up on the stick, not for flying, well maybe hovering only.

Ran for a few minutes at zero pitch, all is well, what gave me great confidence is that a tiny bit of rear cyclic brought the tail down a cm or two and it stayed there for ages, not a budge, tail rock solid of course. Obviously not a good idea to feed cyclic in any other direction so left it at that thinking about Jans comments ref getting up to mischief, needing the right terrain etc lol.

Hopefully maiden on Saturday then, trouble is it will be to an audience, not always good! Contemplating sneaking a hover session in without the canopy lets see.

Still no comments ref See Saw on the head, mine 10mm from new, cannot see how I can make it 3-5 mm without changing the O rings.

[Groucho_]

Fitted the blades, looking cool, but accurately measured 10mm of play at the tips due to the design of the head feathering shaft/bushes ok.
Manual says:
"With mounted blades and after some flights you can measure about 3-5mm at the blade tips after all parts are set. The rotor can be tilted without problems by this amount. This is intended and the reason for this construction".

So is mine normal or excessive in practise? I have the stock Black O rings in there (I know they are),

If you're using the recommended Radix blades I'd suppose that this was taken into account by Jan...

I didn't even measure mine - To be frank, I don't even know how to that with any degree of accuracy...