M120D01 Tail Holding

[Horendus]

I have had my m120d01 for a few months now and it has spent more time on the workbench than in the air.

I have a genius cp and v120d02 and can comfortably fly basic 3 with them however the m120d01 has just been a technical nightmare for me.

Let's just get straight to my most recent technical problem.

Within 5 or so minutes of installing a new tail shaft gear and test flying indoors the shaft begins to slip through the gear.

Attached is a screenshot of what I'm talking about

Basically once it starts doin this i can push it back through however the tail gear will randomly slip through the shaft again and the heli will loose control and crash

Can anyone give me any tips on preventing this happening?

This m120d01 has been such nightmare.

Note the engine in use is a TA215




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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.649849,143.877158

[Heli-opolis]

The flat on the rudder shaft should fit the gear and the 'D' in the gear prevent the shaft from pushing through, as it appears to be in the picture.

Does the rudder shaft gear rotate on the shaft as it looks like it would?

If so, you either need to replace that gear or you could try something that worked well for me which was to use Loctite epoxy putty to reform the 'D', using the flat portion of the shaft as a form around which the epoxy putty is pressed in.

To make it so that the gear does not adhere to the epoxy, you can first fill the hole in the gear with the epoxy putty, apply a small amount of bearing oil to the shaft, to act as a releasing agent and then press the flat portion of the shaft through the putty, making sure you don't just push the putty entirely out.

I found that if I press a finger tip against the hole in the gear on the opposite side of the gear that I am pressing the shaft through that the excess putty will squish back out the side of the gear into which the shaft is being pressed.

Once you feel the shaft pressing on your finger tip, try to place a flat edge against the gear, to line up with the flat on the shaft so that when you press the shaft the rest of the way through, the putty doesn't again just get pushed out as well.

I've had numerous flights on two gears repaired that way doing numerous pitch-pumps to try to cause the repaired gears to fail and even ended up with a fairly energetic crash that broke a blade grip off yet the repaired gears have held throughout it all.

Another option, get a 'Slipper clutch' from Livinia Bob, which by design uses a gear with a rounded out 'D' and then you'll likely never have to worry about damaging any of the gears involved in transmitting power to the rudder ever again.

Or, repair the gear to get you flying in the short term while you wait for the Slipper clutch to arrive.

[Horendus]

Thanks for the reply
Sorry about my LATE reply!

I finally got around to replacing the tail blade shaft gear, the D shape hole had turned into a normal "O" shaped hole. I think this has been happening because I had not been sliding the gear all the way through to where the D shaped tail blade shaft becomes a normal round shape. Thanks for pointing that outHeli-opolis!!

So today before work I had my first ever proper fly of my m120d01 which I purchased so so so many months ago.

Its fly's quite well, and I have been playing with the gyro/delay pots trying to get it nice and stable.

It does handle a bit like a tank compared to the genius and V120d02 however it is also quite a bit heavier. The TA215 motor at 80% give it amazing pickup. Cant wait to try it at 100%...

And I do still need either tiny washers or shorter screws since the screws which came with the TA215 engine shipped installed from WoW hobbies causes the TA215 to short circuit during use, halving flight time and causes the ESC and ENGINE to get REALLY hot. This is because the screws touch the copper coil inside the engine.

At the moment I only have 1 screw holding my engine in, since 1 of the 4 screw holes allows me to screw a screw all the way in without it touching the copper coil inside. Pretty Poor Design if you ask me....




I do have a slight problem which is minor tail wag, which I have so far not been able to iron out using the gyro sensitivity pots on the Rx. This is a little bit annoying, and im not how to adjust the actual Tail gyro gain since there is no POT on the Rx for this


Could anyone offer any tips on how to iron out tail wag on the m120d01? And also can anyone explain to me the idea Balance Delay settings on walkera Rx 's ?

:)

[Heli-opolis]

Thanks for the reply
Sorry about my LATE reply!
No worries. :)
It does handle a bit like a tank...
:rotf

Bigger an heavier heli's can sometimes be a whole different animal. On the one hand, they can seem lumbering and slow to respond but then once put in motion, they like to stay that way. ;)

causes the TA215 to short circuit during use, halving flight time and causes the ESC and ENGINE to get REALLY hot. This is because the screws touch the copper coil inside the engine.

I'm thinking coils getting shorted out is not a good thing! :wow2: Did you know that before hand or did you find out the hard way?

At the moment I only have 1 screw holding my engine in, since 1 of the 4 screw holes allows me to screw a screw all the way in without it touching the copper coil inside. Pretty Poor Design if you ask me....

It may seem that way although I wonder if they intended or planned for there to be a stiffener plate of some sort added between the motor and the frame?

That could account for longer screws being included with the thinking that they can always be cut shorter or spacers made if too long but extending them if they are too short is not usually an option.

Who knows at least, or so it sounds, that there wasn't too much damage done before the problem was found.

[Benvk]

Is the tail wagging left to right or up and down?