Winter time blues...building my 50SE

[Whirly-Girl]

I've got a 50SE that I bought on sale and it is just sitting...I thought originally that I should wait until I buy my motor and electronics to start building.

Winter has hit hard here in ND. It was -29 this morning, ambient temperature, with wind chills in the -40's.

My question is, is it easier to assemble having the engine from the get-go...or can I start building without it and plug it in later. I'm just concerned about all the alignment issues. I've never built a brand new nitro before...all were bought used...and I've just recently built my first new electric (Trex). So, this pretty much explains my building experience so far.

[Bonsai]

It helps to have everything sitting right there while your building...BUT you can build with out them.... Yhea when you are stuck inside you start looking for stuff to do..I got sand storms to contend with and temps in the summer of over 125.... been stuck inside too.... Start building just follow the instructions to a 'T" and you will be just fine...
Dean

[Whirly-Girl]

Thanks. Maybe I'll atleast order the engine from HeliProz. I was holding off to just make one big order because I didn't want to so much shipping...but that isn't even a factor with HP when you spend over $100. Hmmm...

[Bonsai]

Yep free shippin is nice.... :smokin:

[esmith]

Hi Whirly-girl,

One real nice thing about the Raptor is it's simplicity, it's a great model for your first build. The engine in the Raptor is very simple to install in a completed model. There are four bolts and they are not adjustable, they are pre-aligned so you have no setup issues or alignment issues to deal with. Go ahead and build the kit, feel free to lock tight as you go (making sure to test fit beforehand) and when your done you will only have to attach the fan and clutch to the engine and then slip it up into place. (The engine slides up from the bottom, you may have to remove the carbon brace between the skids and the frame if there is one in your kit. four more screws, not a big issue.)

Have fun with the build and don't worry about not having the engine yet.

-eSmith.

[Whirly-Girl]

Okay, I'm officially starting to build my 50 this morning!

T/F: Do not locktite the pinion gear.

And, as I'm building, do I need to lube any of the bearings that I come across or are they good to go from the factory?

[esmith]

OK, Bearings, The factory bearings are sealed units. It is posiable to grease them buy you need a special greaser tool to do it. Without grease they are fine as long as you keep an eye on them.

I flew my Raptor 30 for two years before I had to change out the main bearing because during a routine crash repair (Yes, crashing is Routine) I noticed it getting notchy. Other than that I haven't had any other problems.

Be careful with oils and grease around your heli. They tend to make smooth metal become sticky dirt magnets and the dirt in the grease will act as sandpaper and wear out your parts in a real hurry.

If you do oil or grease something, make sure to clean up well afterwards to avoid this.

Have fun with the build and feel free to keep in touch, I've built lots or raptors.

-eSmith.

[Whirly-Girl]

Okay, so I won't do anything to the bearings...how about that loctite on the pinion gear. The Raptor manual say to do it but I've read online not to because the engine will take care of keeping it tight and if you ever need to take it apart, loctite will just make it that much harder to do so.

And, do I screw the pinion gear on until it just stops...or do I "tighten" it on?

You guys are going to get sick of me asking questions! :lol:

My husband is deployed overseas and he typically helps me with this kind of "common mechanical sense".

Thanks esmith!

[esmith]

I lock-tited the pinion where it threads down to into the bell housing, definately "tighten" it. I didn't loctite the bearing to the pinion although doing so would be better than not. In my case, on my 50, the bearing was so tight I had to press it on with a vise and a socket. It's not moving. The fact it has no locktite isn't going to effect the removal. removal isn't an option.

Others have a looser feel in the pinion/bearing and lock-tite would help there, if the inner race of the bearing slips on the starter shaft, it can cause wear that causes slop which in turn will eat your bearings.

Won't get sick of the questions. Love bs'ing about Raptors!

-eSmith.

[Whirly-Girl]

I'm STUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay, I'm putting together the main gear/constant drive tail gear/auto hub...these stinkin' snap rings are IMPOSSIBLE! I can't get them spread wide enough. What do I do...any tools out there??? Also, I'm supposed to apply more grease before all this gets stuck together. All I have is tri flow lube. Do I need to pick up a certain brand of grease?

P.S. - Called HeliProz today...order my O.S. 50 Hyper. Should be here in a day or 2 at the most. :glasses:

[porsche]

They make snap ring pliers which is what I used for those snap rings. You may be able to do it with two small screw drivers but it is a pain. The pliers make it a "snap" LOL. As far as the grease, I used a heli type grease from my LHS but I am not sure the name now, just make sure the grease is plastic friendly. Alan

[alexander]

What you want to do is loctite with sleeve reatiner the clutch bearing to the pinion. This will make the system last much longer. You may like to take a rap or two of scotch tape around the mast bearings and pinion/start shaft bearings. They don't fit the tightest and eventually play will become evident.

Stephen

[Janek]

Whirly-Girl,

While Stephen's (alexander's) reply is accurate, it's out of context to your last question :wink:

The tool you're after for the "Snap Rings" are called "Circlip Pliers", as the rings things are actually called Circlips (here in the UK at least :) ), you can get them from your nearest Auto accessory store.

An alternative is to take some pointed nosed pliers, and a dremmel with a grinding wheel attached, and grind the pliers down so that the tips will insert into the small holes in the Circlips.

This is a one off job. . . . . . unless of course, you need to replace the auto-rotation hub when the one-way beariing gives up the ghost.

[Hotshot Charlie]

Called HeliProz today...order my O.S. 50 Hyper.

Hey Whirly-Girl, What was their price?

Thanks for the PM !!!

[Whirly-Girl]

What I have done: (thanks to all the advice)

I put a little loctite on the threads on the pinion gear and screwed it into the housing as tightly as I could with some pliers and a rag around the pinion gear. In my prior post, that was where I had the question about loctite...not between the shaft and bearing. esmith: my bearing was already pressed on...didn't have to do it.

I stripped the stupid head on the screw that gets the 2 balls on it...had to call HeliProz and have them ship me a misc. screw bag. And, I'll have to drive to Sears and buy a set of pliers, or go to the auto hobby shop on base and borrow them...I may just do that since this is a tool I'll pretty much only use when building, right?

To grease or not to grease the main gear assembly...instructions say yes, HeliProz says no? Which one? I can see and feel a little lubrication...you don't want to over do it right?

That's where I am for now... :)

[Whirly-Girl]

Is there a huge difference in flight between using the blue dampeners or red ones? I'm at the point where I need to decide now. My flying level right now is above beginner...not quite intermediate. I've been on the sim alot and this is the ship I'm going to start practicing real 3D maneuvers. So, red or blue? Based on that info...are reds for people like the Szabo boys?

[Janek]

My advice is to try both and make up your own mind :wink: , the dampers themselves cost a few bucks, and it takes about 5-10 minutes to change them, even at the field.

But don't forget to grease them :D

[esmith]

I have the black, blue and red dampers, all in different machines. I use the red in my 50 and it's got the SE head (All Metal) The blue I use in the 30 and the stock black in my 60.

Each machine is different for sure but I like the blue, not to crisp yet very dependable feel, the head on the 50 is VERY ridgid and this can make it kinda sensitive.

I'd go blue if you want to upgrade out of the box, otherwise, use the blacks and get to know the machine and then try the others later after you have something to compair it to.

-eSmith.

[Spitfire_mk5]

Blue is stock on the R50 (probably the same on the SE) have run them and black generic (little harder then blue but not much) there wasn't much diffrence between the 2. Have red ones in at the moment and when the Wx gets decent I'll see how it runs...

[Whirly-Girl]

Thanks again guys for the tips and quick answers to my questions. I got alot of work done today after I put my son to bed. I went with the blue dampeners after I realized how easy it will be to switch out later. I bought some dielectric grease at Napa as well as a pair of snap ring pliers...$3.99! And they came with 4 interchangeable heads. Good deal and man, was that easy with the RIGHT tool. :wink:

UPS brought my new O.S. 50 Hyper head engine today! SEXY!!!!

I thought I would post a picture here and let y'all see my progress. There are more pictures in my gallery of the stages I've completed.

Jeanette

[esmith]

Looking real good there! I like the carbon look windscreen, nice touch.

-eSmith.

[WillJames]

I like the carbon look windscreen, nice touch



Me to that is cool!!

[FlyinTiger]

You're doing great! I am glad your Christmas present is keeping you motivated despite the frigid temps...heck I don't think it is even that cold in the FREEZER!

I'll be home in 45 days (plus or minus)...I can't wait to see this beauty! :cool:

[Laurens]

What upgrades does the 50 SE have above the normal raptor?

[Hotshot Charlie]

I just started putting together my Gohbee Stinger 50, very nice kit and it really is ARF. Very little building required, so I can't really call it a kit. I would think if my engine and blades were here today, I would be flying this afternoon.

There is a lot to be said for the simplicity of the Raptor's and the Gohbee's !!!