1010c 2.3a update out.

[Raven_darkcloud]

Ok Just got the 2.3a update and flashed the charger. So far so good. It now has nicad/nimh, and pb. You must use a 9v batterie or a resister, I used 9v bat to be safe, when updating. I need to make leads for my nimh befor I can test that part but it did my pb just fine and is now charging my tpx 6s 5000. The link to the 210v is lightning fast now. It did take almost 20 trys to get the update to get to 100% but its worth it. :banana :woohoo

[Daisuke Ide]

I did the up-grade to V2.3A of TP1010C.
Of course, the battery of 9V that existed in attention was used.
However, LCD was suddenly turned off by the forwarding about 70% of Firmware and it did not operate.

It seems to be dark and to be the blink of LCD.?
There was no problem though I did the same work twice(V2.0C and V2.1A) by 12V before there was 9V instraction warning.
My TP1010C entered the state that was not able to be used.
Return method of someone?

[Hangarace]

Update worked for me just fine. I like the new memory feature for all types of batteries. They also got rid of the "0" memory spot and changed it to "10", makes more sense. Good job TP... (used the 9v battery method and it did the usual retry 1 time) :D
Dave :thumbup:

[Finless]

I just flashed mine to 2.3A last night. So far so good and it supports nicad and A123.

Only thing I DONT LIKE is they made the key and charge beep very soft and you can hardly hear it.

Now you all BETTER read the warning they posted about using a 10 ohm resistor on the input power or use a 9V battery for input power before flashing the code!!!! They say if you dont use this it make screw up your charger! I have a feeling they calibrate the input voltage sensing by reducing voltage at the input side using the resistor. Seems they want 9V input to calibrate against.

Bob

[Nyther]

Thanks for this observation Finless, I thought maybe it was just me on the key and charge beep being low. :thumbup: I also used the 9V battery method and only had to retry once at the 50% mark. I have charged NiCads, NiMh, PB, and the usual LiPos with no problems so far. :glasses2:

Ken

[markg]

i flashed mine BEFORE they put up the warning, and it worked fine on two chargers.

my theory is that the resistor or 9v battery limits the current to the charger, just in case something goes wrong, so it doesnt smoke itself.

that way you can try to flash again, and the unit isnt zapped.

[Finless]

Since you did this can yo do a test please.
While charging if you press SEL it will tell youy what it is reading as the input voltage. If you have a volt meter read your input voltage and what the charger says it is and see how off it is. Mine is .10 volts difference.

This will tell me if the 9V is used for calibration of some kind.

Again they NEVER had you do this before until this release so why now?

Bob

[Hughes500Bob]

I flashed my new unit for the 1st time last night from 2.0c to 2.3a using a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor. It went to 74% on the first try and 100% on the second try. :glasses2:

[Shuttle RG]

I also flashed mine BEFORE they put the warning up. It did not complete on the first try either, but did the second. This was the first time it didn't complete an update on the first try. No problems so far.

Oh, I have the knock off which has worked flawlessly since I purchased it several months ago.

[Hughes500Bob]

Finless Bob ..... I'd guess the 9 volts is the minimum voltage for the "keep alive" circuit and has nothing to do with calibration. I'll check mine tonight for input voltage descrepencies as you reported.

[Finless]

Bob, since you use the 10 ohm resistor I suspest you wouldnt have a problem IF the 9V is used for some kind of calibration....... I was curious to see what someone that used straight 12V gets comparing a meter to the charger.....

Bob

[markg]

While charging if you press SEL it will tell you what it is reading as the input voltage. If you have a volt meter read your input voltage and what the charger says it is and see how off it is.
Bob

i have two chargers; when the power supply says 13.68 (using a very accurate fluke vm), the one charger says 13.606, the other says 13.619.

but remember there is a small voltage drop on the wires going from the power suppy to the charger, and i cant measure it at the true input without opening up the charger. i did make sure both batteries on charge were the same (3s) and were both charged (so they didnt take too much current), so the drop on the input wires should be small.

i hope this helps. if you want anything further, pm or call me and i would be happy to do it for you.

note; normally people would not use any external voltage like this for calibration; rather they would rely on a band gap or some other such internal reference that wouldnt change or need calibrating in this way.

one another issue; JUST THIS MORNING the warning wasnt on their web page....but before i posted this, i just rechecked the web site and its back. figures .....

[Hughes500Bob]

Finless ..... Fluke says 13.830 volts at the power supply posts. TP1010 reports 13.753 input voltage. I still think the resistor / battery is their way to limit input voltage to near keep alive for the programable chip ..... especially if it does not initialize the first try.

[Skiddz]

OK, I'm a tad confused. Is the charger looking for 9V at the power input when it's flashed? Can't I dial my PS down to 9V for the flash process or do I have to use a battery or the resistor? I have a PS at work I can set to whatever voltage/current I want. Stands to reason I can "emulate" a 9V battery with it...

I can't find anything on the TP web site that mentions the "whys" of it.

[edit]

OK, worked like a charm with both the 9V battery and my PS dialed down to 9V (I tried the battery 1st). I don't see the LiPo recovery mode now. Was that removed after 2.1a or do I have to "step" through all the upgrades? (i.e can I go direct from 2.0c to 2.3a?)

[Hughes500Bob]

V1.85 MUST go to 2.0? first before going to 2.3a. Skiddz you did everything correctly ..... and I never had 2.1a so I can not answer your question.

It would be nice ..... if Thunder Power would write a new Manual that someone could actually use and understand.

With all the "potentially" bad things that can happen to a miss-handled LiPo, I can't figure out why they do not have a better manual. :arggg:

I hooked up with Jesusfreak and his nice family today to have lunch and use my TP updater cable to up-rev his TP1010C. We used a 9 volt battery and it took first try.

[Skiddz]

Yeah, I was 2.0c from the get-go. It took longer to the USB to UART driver loaded and the charger detected than it did to actually upgrade it. Took the upgrade the 1st time on the battery and again on the PS dialed down to 9V.

Yeah, the manual sucks.. Not 20 mins ago I was thinking to myself, "I should write a new manual for that thing that's worth a damn". I do a lot of technical writing at work so it wouldn't be too hard. I'm just afraid I'd run into time constraints and never get it done. hehehe

[Finless]

Is it just me or do you all HATE the new beeper sound?

It's almost so bad I am thinking of going back to the previous version!

Bob

[Skiddz]

I can't even HEAR the darn thing now.. I used to be able to wander to the other side of the house for a few mins and I'd hear it beeping and now I'll be sitting 20 feet from it and can BARELY hear it beep.

I still haven't seen the recovery mode menu.. Did it go away after the 2.1 update?

I do like the super quick balancer detect tho. Most of my packs start to charge in about 20 seconds, but I do have a couple that it takes the balancer about a min to settle down with... Still all within 0.005V but it's odd those two do that.