Hattori Fix

[whirlyspud]

I have head about fixes to help keep the muffler on, but I can not find them. What are they doing with them. Adding setscrews? Are they on both sets of bolts, or just one?

Thanks
Mike

[carey shurley]

you only need the set screws against the bolts that attach into the cylinder. The other bolts don't seem to be causing any issues. The latest versions of the "header" have these set screws included. If you search around here, I believe John has some pictures or measurements or both

[whirlyspud]

Thanks, I found it.

Mike

[Aquillaguy]

Gentlemen ......


After 3 re-fittings of the Hatori pipe (literally vibrated loose after every flight)and trying different and more expensive locktite options every time I gave up and fitted the stock muffler.......5 flights later solid as a rock... slightly noisier but I actually like the grunty noise of her now... :wink:

Does anyone know was this Hatori pipe made specially for the Spec G or is it merely a compatible pipe...?

Reason I ask, is that the stock muffler small,short and light as it is,gets fitted with a support bracket to the motor,"stands to reason there is PURPOSE for this...?"
Here we are taking a heavier/bigger pipe that is almost 4 times as long,mounting it without any supporting brackets.There is such a leaver action on those two mounting screws...!!!! I cant see it ever staying in place for any extended period of time ........Any ideas anyone....?

How much does the Hatori actually increase performance..? Or is it more for extra muffling and cosemetic appeal..

[bigrcr]

The Hatori pipe was designed for the Spectra-G as Miniature designed it with Hatori.

There has been much done trying to keep the Hatori on the machine. You are right about the lever action and I believe the main concern was about it breaking which has not happened. You can drill and tap the pipe adapter to take 5mm set screws that pinch on either side of the attachment bolts (Hatori has done this to only one side). I am trying to get them (through MA) to make an adapter out of stainless as it does not have the heat expansion of aluminum to see if that will help as I believe it will. A support may be beneficial as well. I am about to get a local machine shop make an adapter for me to test.

An interesting idea is to put on the adapter and then start the motor up without the muffler and bring it into a hover. This will of course, require a change in needle settings to accomplish. Then immediately torque down the bolts holding the adapter on. Then the pipe can be put on. This may work but the sound of that first flight would be deafening. Care will have to be used in torquing down the bolts as it will be possible to get them too tight. Bill Meader seems to think that this will work, I know it cannot hurt (it's just a pain to do).

The Hatori increases the performance a very good deal. It is the only muffler I have found that will support the RPM of the TRM G-231. The stock box muffler is too restrictive.

[Aquillaguy]

Hi John

Am going to complete my break in process with stock black box muffler,will try fitting Hatori pipe again,I'm just very worried about stripping the thread on the motor side by over tightening.What are othe rpeople doing at the moment.....?

I was thinking about making a pipe clamp out of alluminium with an adapter that can be anchored to the baseplate aswell as the rear metal upright...

Although having said that ,I paid an absolute fortune for my Hatori... :glasses: Should I be having to make custom brackets....

Can you forsee a modified pipe coming from Hatori any time soon John....?

Thanks again...

[Billme]

John,
On doing that method, you don't want to try to hover it, just run it on the ground to get it to operating temp. You don't have to change the needles to do it this way...

We are adding a front brace to ours...Got the proto this weekend...
Bill

[Kevin22]

Does anyone know if the century muffler is having the same problem?

[Kevin22]

Does anyone know if the century muffler is having the same problem?

[carey shurley]

bracing the hatori - fyi one of the protypes used braces to support the muffler. The result was that the weld around the outlet pipe cracked where it goes into the muffler.

you mileage may vary, but be careful. When that breaks, before it makes so much noise that you know its broke, it sprays out enough RF interference to put the receiver into hold. Now how would I know this?

[Yellow Spectra]

Carey,

You said prototype so does this mean the current hatori mufflers will crack around the area that is attached to the engine???!!

[carey shurley]

the only one I've ever seen break, was the prototype which used a support brace on the back of the muffler (mounted to the frame). So I don't suggest using any sort of brace on the muffler. Other than the fact that it takes a while to get them tightened up, I'm not aware of any other problem with them.