NITRO ENGINE HARD TO START

[SteveTTL]

I've been learning on the blade cp and just about have all the hovering orientations mastered and am getting close to starting forward flight. So.....I decided to get going on my first nitro. I bought a kinetic 50 with an OS 50 hyper to get started on. My problem is, I have a hard time getting the engine to start. It seems to keep filling the muffler up with fuel while cranking. I've had the pilots at our local field check my fuel line hookups and they are correct. Could an incorrect muffler be causing too much pressure in the fuel tank and causing the engine to flood?

[WayneBrown]

It's likely a bit of unfamiliarity with the engine.
Remove the fuel tubing to the muffler while fueling, and install a means to cut-off fuel flow to the carb at the same time. I use a Tee Filter inline with the carb. I fill through the side of the Tee, and have a line clamp between the Tee and the carb.

[BarracudaHockey]

I'm with Wayne, you're probably pumping fuel into the carb while you're fueling.

[SteveTTL]

I got it to start if I don't fill the tank up all the way to the top and leave the muffler line off. But then it runs rich, way too rich. Then it's difficult to start again. Once, I tried taking off the fuel line to the carb and cranking it over. It started and ran about 10 seconds with the fuel line unplugged. When I do get it to start with the fuel line plugged in, it runs rich. It will run with the mixture screw less than a quarter turn open. It also seems to run better with the muffler line left unplugged. I know I'm not used to these nitro engines, but I'm about ready to throw this thing into the garbage can. I appreciate any advise you can give me!

[mjws]

Don't touch the mixture screw at all. The low end on a hyper is almost perfect out of the box it's a cam so a couple degrees is all it ever takes when things are right. So if you've messed with it. Turn it back. It should be lined up with the center of the carb.

Get a fuel clip and make sure you keep it clipped while fueling. Keep it clipped while you are getting ready. Keep it clipped while you are putting the glow ignitor on. Open it at the last possible second. You can even keep it clipped while you crank it, and when it starts, unclip it. Not a whole lot different than taking the fuel line off the carb like when you got it to run. But you can turn it on instantly when it goes.

Close the main needle and open it back up 1.5 turns. You should be nice and rich there. DON'T RUN WITHOUT MUFFLER PRESSURE. You are forcing it lean, go ahead and turn it in a few clicks up to 1/8 turn if you need to to keep it running. But DO NOT go too far. 1 1/4 is pretty lean, and not where you want to be on a new motor. It should be happy to run VERY RICH with the ignitor on (2 turns)

Just takes a little timing and practice. It's pretty easy to flood it or hydrolock when you are getting everything ready, you are double checking, getting organized and it just sits there with fuel running in.

Once you get it down you'll love the motor, mine literally turns about twice before it starts. Dead instant and reliable. They run pretty much flawless when dialed in. ;) The guys at the field shouldn't have a hard time getting it going for you.

Good Luck,

Mike

[electricdurango]

What is a good idle point on a hyper. I see the metal marks on the carb. Full open, Full close, and a few hatches which I belive are 55%-65%. I have heard the 2mm is a good idle but I dont want to engauge the clutch.

[mjws]

Just back it off until it runs reliably. Back pressure and tuning are going to affect this. Can't say I've ever even looked until you asked the question. On an MP2, CP 30%, just under 1 turn main needle, 2 degrees lean on mixture. Mine is about 3mm off of the closed hatch for a medium low idle. Carb hatch is Dead vertical. But it changes slightly day to day.

Mike