View Full Version : 611 glitch issues
3DBatixkid
07-22-2007, 08:02 PM
I have about 3.5 gallons through my 600N. My 611 has started acting up. During most 3D it holds fine, but everyone once in a while it will get a HUGE glitch on the tail. It will do up to 1/4 piro and then come back to where it is supposed to be. I have tried remounting the sensor with different thicknesses of tape, and it hasnt really helped. Im thinkin that the servo is on its way out? Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks
Finless
07-22-2007, 08:07 PM
I have experienced this several times on the 4 600E helis. Everytime but one it's because the sensor was mounted too close to the bearings for the tail drive pulley and the bearing noise was effecting the gyro. Like you explain it was a random quick KICK and seemed to be relatedd to a certain RPM. Moving the sensor back as far as possibel resolved it.
One other time (Trooper Sam's heli) we played hell finding the problem and it turned out to be a noise swash plate believe it or not!
Bob
3DBatixkid
07-22-2007, 08:18 PM
Should i put the metal plate under the sensor? Nothing else has changed since this problem came up. What about putting some lubrication on the swash and bearings? i have the sensor mounted on the top of the tail cause housing. Where else is a good place for it?
Finless
07-23-2007, 02:24 AM
Top of the tail case housing is fine and yes put the metal plate on. Then as I said move the gyro sensor back on the tail case. If you still have a problem check for bad bearings on the tail drive shaft (at least the top bearing) and again the swash. I suppose other bearings can cause that but this is what I found on 4 different Trex's.
Bob
3DBatixkid
07-23-2007, 02:39 AM
Thanks a bunch Finless! I will give it a shot next weekend. :D
Trooper Sam
07-23-2007, 04:08 AM
Don't forget, Bob...the final thing we found with my tail problem was that the little plastic piece inside the output gear on the 9256 was broken. That piece was supposed to connect to the shaft for the feedback potentionmeter. With that piece broken, the feedback pot wasn't getting correct position reporting, hence the final cause of the tail kick.
All of the other causes that Bob mentioned are indeed valid, and in 99% of the cases, will solve the problem when they are eliminated. Mine was a special case because of crash damage that was previously undetected.