Trex600 Nitro Pro Build Vids

[Sungrazer]

Bob - thanks a lot for these videos! They have been invaluable in the build of my Trex 600N Pro. I did it over the weekend and you cover most of the topics so well that I barely needed to check in the build manual. Much appreciated - keep them coming!

[DILLINJA187]

Yep ive just finished a 600n and your vids were and are 1st class bob...Ur a legend Man !! Thanks for time

[philliefiller]

i have found out some tuning tips i have a gv1 with hyper 50. now for a while i was going off the build videos and there great but on the last one when you break the engine in bob and the book says 1 and 1/2 turns out, now it may be different were your living but in florida, you should try 2 and 1/2 turns let idle for first then hover 2nd and 3rd, hover or fly 4-5 one click or two leaning it out to end at about 2 and 1/4 or click less, im doing some mild 3D with my headspeeds at 1650 idle 1850 S1 and 1960S2 after flying for 10 mins and land my head is at about 215F to 220F. I have 9 and -9 pitch thanks for all your help bob

[Shakes268]

Something mentioned in the tail linkage setup video is the installation of the pushrod eyelets...but it never returns to them.

Is CA used to secure the eyelet rings to the tail boom?

[TheBum]

A lot of people take the end of a zip tie, wedge it under the ring, and cut off the excess. Others use CA.

I'm experimenting with using #30 o-rings to sandwich the rings on the boom because mine are too snug for method 1 and I don't like the idea of a permanent adhesive. I'll probably find out tomorrow how it works.

[Shakes268]

If you don't want permanent, you could try canopy glue. It will bond pretty well, resists vibration and you can just "peel" it off if you want later. I use it on the inner heads of servo screws on my gasser airplanes and it works great.

[Mercuriell]

The cable grips work real well, aren't degraded by fuel and are removable - the trick is to slide the guide over the tie rather than try to push the tie under the guide

[TheBum]

The cable grips work real well, aren't degraded by fuel and are removable - the trick is to slide the guide over the tie rather than try to push the tie under the guide

Wouldn't that necessitate being able to at least get the very tip of the tie under the guide? I can't even do that.

I flew on Saturday with the o-rings and they worked out really well before I crashed due to flying when I was too fatigued to be doing so. They were only 20 cents apiece, so I'm not worried about the damage to them from fuel exposure.

[fiveoboy01]

I used one drop of CA to hold mine on. Haven't had them come loose yet, and they'll pop off easily enough as long as you don't overdo the CA. Frankly I figure if I need to get them off anyhow, I've just bent the boom, and the new boom comes with a couple new guides.

[sulan]

Okey I am setting up my head right now. I installed the servo arms so they are about 90. My links from servo to swash ended up 33,5mm. So my washout is about 1mm or less from the hub. Still my swash plate is hitting the lower collar. And im binding much at full pitch with full ail/elev. So much that it makes the head spins a little when binding. What have i messed up? / "Headless"

[TheBum]

I found with the default swash mix settings of 60% on my DX7 that I would get binding when applying cyclic both at full collective stick against the guide pegs in the head block and at zero collective stick against the collar. I just dialed down the mix to about 50% and all was much better.

[sulan]

I found with the default swash mix settings of 60% on my DX7 that I would get binding when applying cyclic both at full collective stick against the guide pegs in the head block and at zero collective stick against the collar. I just dialed down the mix to about 50% and all was much better.

okey. that means I have to make it all from the beginning again. because i guess the neutral position off the servo will change?

[TheBum]

okey. that means I have to make it all from the beginning again. because i guess the neutral position off the servo will change?

Changing the mixes in the swash menu will not impact the servo center position, just the endpoints.

[nightofcarnage]

hello,
anyone using CMS carbsmart in there 600 nitro with a YS50st?

[madcortina]

Thanks Bob, this is a great videos.

[razer t-rex]

took long enough but i just got a motor and am still waiting for the money for a control

[ThE BiGToP]

Hi Bob, I love the video's they have helped a lot with my 600 setup. AND! I love the DX7 throttle cut switch... I HATE TRIM CUT
Well done Bob...good find.

[ajnstajn]

Hi, I have a question regarding the tail drive system. If I have a nitro pro with a torque tube, is it possible to change it to belt drive?

[EdgeCrusher]

Why would you want to do that?

[TheBum]

Why would you want to do that?

Let's see...

1. The bevel gears have a tendency to strip when the tail touches the ground and are a PITA to replace.

2. Replacing TTs every time you bend the boom can become expensive. A belt will typically survive a crash.

3. The belt provides some flex to reduce the risk of belt damage and stripped gears during a crash, making field repairs much quicker.

Mercuriell has already done the mod and I plan to do it myself the next time I strip gears or bend the boom. The only parts you need are a tail case (H60043), a tail rotor shaft (H60079), a tail drive gear assembly (H60078), and a belt (H60036).

[EdgeCrusher]

OK

[tsswain]

Wow! - I'm so new to this please forebear. Just completed a T-Rex 600N - took me 3 months to build (leisurely) and about 3 minutes to crash - never have done this before -anyway, the tail rotor hit the ground and it appears the front gear box is sheared in several places so I have ordered a replacement. I'm surprised neither of the main gears appear damaged and while I am about to take the torque tube/ tail assembly off I don't think there is any damage here - Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks - tsswain@yahoo.com

[Finless]

Ummm what thoughts do you want?

I doubt the torque tube is damaged and you probably only need to replace the gears. CHEAP! Those that wine and complain about the torque tube DON'T USE IT... I prefer it myself. If your tail hits the ground TRUST ME... you stressed the belt. Matter of time and keep doing that and it will snap on you in the air! Something has to give folks and if you hit the tail on the ground you stressed something. YES the TT gears easily strip when that happens! YES... Yes the belt system gives you some leeway... BUT DON'T think it is indestructible!

Anyway off my rant.

tsswain, replace the gear and go fly :)

Bob

[EdgeCrusher]

Hey bob, Excuses me if i overlooked this already but when you think you will have that second edition to break in/Tune Video!!! Very inexperienced tuner and am looking forward to some additional help in this area.

[TheBum]

Those that wine and complain about the torque tube DON'T USE IT... I prefer it myself. If your tail hits the ground TRUST ME... you stressed the belt. Matter of time and keep doing that and it will snap on you in the air! Something has to give folks and if you hit the tail on the ground you stressed something. YES the TT gears easily strip when that happens! YES... Yes the belt system gives you some leeway... BUT DON'T think it is indestructible!
I don't think a belt is indestructible. I'm just planning to convert to belt drive until I can avoid crashing every other time out. In my first 5 outings, I've stripped three sets of gears and bent two booms/TTs. If it were just the gears I had been replacing, I probably would stick with the TT; the gears may be cheap but TTs can get expensive and I think they're overpriced by about 2x as it is.